Château Lafite Rothschild 2012, 2002, 1996, 1990, 1989 & 1985

The usual suspects kicked off the New Year with a Lafite Rothschild vertical at Chef Chan’s private dining on 24 January 2024. The oft-quoted “quintessential” Lafite is a complete wine marrying effortless layers of glorious fruit with refined acidity and elegant tannins, impeccably presented with aristocratic breed, power and feminine grace as an inseparable whole. Indeed, the 1996, 1990 and 1985 that evening bore testimony to that. But, like all great clarets, be prepared to wait at least thirty years before they are ready. Many thanks, guys!

2015 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of LF. Nose and palate of smooth sophisticated crème de la crème tinted with capsicum and nutmeg, displaying a sharply focused exquisite intensity coupled with superb acidity and precision. Highly agile in spite of its ample density. Very evenly balanced, finishing with superb length and mouthfeel.

2008 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Nicolas François, courtesy of Vic. Pale. This wine opens with distant yeasty overtones leading to a structured expanse of distilled citrus and green fruits, laced with crisp acidity that cut through with tight intensity almost to the point of serious austerity, developing further notes of pomelo and bitter lemon. Far from ready.

2000 “Y” d’Yquem, courtesy of Sir Bob. Profusion of dense emulsion and vanillin on the nose. Open with understated intensity in spite of the bold presence of white fruits underpinned by traces of stony minerals, its subtle layers imparting lush viscosity with a polished elegance. Highly integral. Very lovely.

2012 Château Lafite Rothschild. Deep crimson. This wine opens with an effusive sexy pungency in contrast to the masculine palate, a little stern in spite of the soft contours and understated tannins. Impeccably balanced, the deep swathes of currants and raspberries with a tinge of crushed fruit exerting a controlled subtle intensity. Came together very well, developing a bit of juicy succulence though yet to show real complexity.

2002 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Vic. Deep garnet. Surprisingly restrained with just a hint of reductive earthiness. The fleshy palate is nicely open with a distinct note of soy and green capsicum laid on dusty tannins, showing great balance and lovely integration though it doesn’t quite plumb the depths. Nevertheless, its pedigree still comes through. Probably at its best. One is truly drinking the vintage.

1996 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of LF. Deep, darkish characters dominate, a little stern and backward initially before fleshing out with more fruit to the fore, morphing into a velvety expanse with structured silky tannins, the fruit caught at optimal maturity, still wonderfully ripe and vibrant. Very beautifully integrated with seamless layers of cool suave understated verve throughout its entire length, each sip revealing fresh enticing detail, culminating in a tinge of menthol at its finish. Truly a complete wine.

1990 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Sir Bob. Displaying a translucent crimson, this seminal vintage of Lafite exudes a feminine exuberance from the hallowed glow of complex currants and layers of glorious supple fruit caught at optimal maturity, still holding on without any hint of fading. Medium-full, boasting superb mouthfeel from the lush density of fruit, sublime acidity and finely-honed tannins that exert controlled intensity and lithe agility. Utterly integral with exemplary balance and impeccable proportions. A complete wine with an added dimension of flair and confidence.

1989 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Sir Bob. Crimson. Open with a highly refined glow of raspberries, mulberries and violets whilst the medium palate shows a tinge of mandarins as well, distinctly more ferrous and minerally, imparting a somewhat subdued and austere feel even though it is fairly integral and well proportioned. However, compared with a previous tasting just over a year ago, this wine appears to have lost some of its lustre. Put in its place by the 1990.

1985 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson. This wine exudes a gentle earthiness, its supple autumnal fruit still fleshy and layered, tinged with a distinct note of capsicum. Very smooth, elegant and placid with melted tannins. Absolutely harmonious, evoking a relaxed charm entirely consistent with its thirty-nine years without any sign of fading. The very epitome of a mature claret.