Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2008 1999 1986 Château Troplong-Mondot 2017 2005 1995 1993 Clos Fourtet, 2005 Cos D’Estournel, 2002 La Mondotte, 2003 Léoville-Barton, 2003 Canon-la-Gaffélière

For clarets, one drinks the vintage as opposed to burgundy where one drinks the producer. This was clear when the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour convened at Buona Terra private dining on 05 September 2024 on a theme of Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé B lined up against Left Bank Second Growths. The supple silky textures of the Right Bank, always laced with a dash of sweetness, was easily identifiable, as was the deeper darker and more structured cabernet of the Left Bank. in the great vintages, both sides were equally superb. The wines, particularly those of the Left, also reflect well the less exalted vintages though the differences were less apparent in those of the Right. Through the extended passage of time, all of them still drink very well, each with its own individual merit. Many thanks, everyone.

2016 Les Cordeliers Brut, a Crémant de Bordeaux from Saint-Émilion, made from sémillon. Controlled intensity of delicate citrus fruit and fig tinged with a dash of sweetness. Rounded and well-balanced, though it could do with a bit more body. Does its job.

1986 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, courtesy of Anthony. Still quite deeply coloured, exuding a powerful bouquet of mature fruit amid distinct overtones of ash, mahogany and dried cherries. Fully developed on the beautifully proportioned palate where lead elements and bell peppers dominate, supported by a firm earthiness that imparted a masculine but relaxed tone, finishing well with a dash of pochai pills.

1999 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, courtesy of Marc. Evolved crimson, proffering a predominance of dark cherries and raspberries that leapt from the glass though it is rather narrow in spectrum on the slender palate, open with a certain dash of sweetness from its refined but gritty tannins that exert svelte intensity. Quite integral, just missing that extra dimension and opulence of the best vintages.

2008 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, courtesy of Ace. Crimson with a deep garnet core. This wine opens with an attractive reductive funkiness amid generous wafts of ripe dark berries, raspberries and violets Carried well onto the fullish palate, still coiled with plenty of verve that teasing intensity. Trace ferrous elements. Fullish. Sleek acidity tannins. Plenty of coiled energy. Teasing intensity.

1995 Château Troplong-Mondot, courtesy of Kieron. Displaying crimson hues, this wine is well into its secondary development, proffering notes of haw and medicinal elements on the nose while the medium palate is imbued with a lovely warm ripeness, softly contoured with glowing tones of mature red fruits that flesh out with superb integration. and understated elegance.

2005 Château Troplong-Mondot, courtesy of Russ. Deep purple, delivering its promise of copious velvety red fruits with a broad ripe expanse on a bed of plush tannins, perfectly balanced by a firm base of ferrous elements and refined acidity to cushion its youthful exuberance, displaying fine complexity and superb delineation throughout its length. Quite exemplary in every way.

2017 Château Troplong-Mondot. Deep purple. Restrained bouquet of dark fruits. Medium-full, the rounded tannins imparting some tension with controlled verve, displaying good balance between the ample of black fruits, understated minerality and refined acidity. Good sophistication.

1993 Château Clos Fourtet, courtesy of Jess. In spite of its brownish crimson appearance, this wine is still wonderfully fresh, exuding a very lovely complex of cinnamon, aged plums and savoury tones laced with ferrous elements within a sleek, highly harmonious medium-bodied proposition. Delicious. Not drying out. Superb!

2003 Château Canon-la-Gaffélière, courtesy of Barrie. Opaque crimson, opening with an attractive reductive funk though the fullish palate is showing well, generously endowed with ripe raspberries, wild berries and currants that exert understated intensity and acidity without any hint of the heat stress of that vintage. Highly harmonious.

2002 La Mondotte, courtesy of Raj. Deep crimson. This wine opens with a lovely complex of ripe wild berries and black berries tinged with a savoury warmth and sweetness. The masculine palate, though, is surprisingly restrained in spite of the bold layers of dark fruit, well-proportioned but rather introspective at this stage. One for the long haul.

2004 Château Rauzan-Segla, courtesy of Melvin. Deep crimson, boasting a full presence of darkish ripe fruit laced with slick acidity that teased with fleeting intensity, underscored by delicate minerality and a slight vegetal tinge that added further attraction, though one would have expected a greater extent of secondary development.

2003 Château Léoville-Barton, courtesy of Bowei. Crimson. Medium-weight. Well into its secondary development. Open with relaxed charm where the fruit, acidity and supple tannins are very evenly proportioned and integral, displaying excellent refinement and impeccable balance.

2008 Château Rauzan-Segla, courtesy of Dolly. Deep crimson, displaying youthful exuberance from its robust detailed tannins that added further dimension to its masculine but balanced proportions, teasing with cool fleeting intensity. Modest finish.

2005 Château Cos D’Estournel, courtesy of Sok Cheng. This wine opens with an elegant restraint in spite of its fullish presence, boasting deep layers of delicious dark fruit well integrated with refined detailed tannins. Very classically structured and proportioned. Highly harmonious without calling attention to itself. This will last for decades.

2011 Chapelle d’Ausone, courtesy of Kieron. Deep garnet core with a crimson rim, proffering delicious wafts of rose petals, haw and red fruits tinged with some sweetness. Well-layered with cool ripe darkish fruit, imparting supple intensity with a certain raciness tempered by a bit of pebbly brightness from its minerally depth. Worthy of sharing the same table as its grand vin, as always.