Ric visits Atelier Laurent Ponsot

Those who have been following the recent fortunes of Monsieur Laurent Ponsot would know that he is no longer part of Domaine Ponsot which he had helmed from 1981 to 2015; he is now an independent vigneron, along with his son. Within an astonishing space of less than two years (during the difficult Covid pandemic, no less), Laurent had set up a brand-new ultra-modern purpose-built facility at Gilly-lès-Citeaux, a stone’s throw from Vougeot. From here, Laurent produces a bewildering range of whites and reds, each of which is a blend of several subplots within a lieu-dit or commune, supplied by several different growers. Only the Griottes-Chambertin and Clos-Saint-Denis grand crus are domaine wines. When we visited the so-called Atelier Laurent Ponsot in the early morning of 25 September 2024, we were stunned by the beautifully sleek complex, immensely functional yet aesthetically pleasing with elegant chic, the very anti-thesis of the rustic properties of Burgundy. Cleanliness in a wine-producing facility is key for Laurent. Even now in the midst of harvesting, the entire chai is squeaky clean and spotless. The stainless-steel vats have been carefully re-designed separately for white and reds, for their vinification requirements are different. The latest equipment is also utilised for bottling and for cleaning the barrels. Every aspect of the facility has been thought through by Laurent’s scientific mind and he has left no stone unturned. Only then do we understand why his labels sport those space-age fonts in luminous green: it is all very appropriate. Does it all translate into top quality inside each bottle? It would seem so. The 2022 we tasted (as well as many others that I’ve had in recent years) are perfectly balanced, imbued with palpable terroir character. Throughout much of the past two decades, Laurent has had to contend with difficult people and difficult business matters while making sure that an infamous Indonesian faking wines on the auction market is properly indicted and writing up the exposé in his new book, and still having to do all the usual winemaking without missing a step. He only sleeps four hours per day which, perhaps, explains his prolific capacity. Most people would have been contented to call it a day after all these. But Laurent is only at the dawn of a new renaissance. Merci beaucoup, Monsieur Ponsot, for spending time with us and we wish you every success. Au revoir et à bientôt.

2022 Laurent Ponsot Gevrey-Chambertin de l’Aulhe. Profusion of rose petals and cherries, carrying well on to the medium palate with a dash of salinity amid plummy characters, showing lovely balance. Rounded with lively acidity and understated intensity. Very sleek. A blend of twelve plots from various suppliers.

2022 Laurent Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cuvée du Sorbier. Lovely colour. Cherries and red fruits dominate with lovely freshness and purity. Highly supple and harmonious with a fleshy mouthfeel. Superbly integrated with an undertow of earthy salinity. Great balance. Doesn’t call attention to itself.

2022 Laurent Ponsot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Cuvée du Cedre. Great colour. Restrained bouquet of red fruits. Open medium presence, structured with detailed tannins and distinct ferrous elements that impart a slightly dryish finish. Great balance. A blend of ten plots.

2022 Laurent Ponsot Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvée du Saule. Good colour. Highly aromatic. Medium-full. Delicious, imbued with certain richness and lithe tannins that impart a fleshy velvetiness. Excellent definition. Domaine-owned but only 0.25 ha.

2022 Laurent Ponsot Meursault Cuvée du Pandorea. Luminous. Effusive in white fruits and floral tones that evoke a very clean feel. Superbly balanced, displaying keen lift and freshness, tinged with a dash of saline. Very correct in character, not reductive at all. Highly harmonious. A blend of fifteen plots.

2022 Laurent Ponsot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Kalimeris. This wine opens with a certain restrained complexity on the nose, matching the fleshy but understated impeccably proportioned palate. Shows great clarity and definition, opening up with emerging white fruits though one senses a deeper vein of coiled energy. Highly successful.