Ric re-visits Domaine des Lambrays

Shortly after my last visit to Domaine des Lambrays in November 2017, the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis was rocked by a couple of power plays where this estate was bought over by luxury consortium LVMH while rival tycoon François Pinault did likewise to neighbouring Domaine du Clos de Tart. Interestingly, master winemaker Jacques Devauges also moved from Clos de Tart to Domaine des Lambrays following the buyouts, the 2019 vintage being entirely his maiden effort at the latter estate. To the consumer, the takeovers translated into immediate price hikes for these two grand crus; each of them now commands almost SGD900 upon release, a three-fold increment. Part of this, as far as Domaine des Lambrays is concerned, is due to the construction of a large brand-new chai (astonishingly within the space of two years during the pandemic) to allow vinification to be carried out according to the parcellaire approach that Jacques favours. Just as he had previously done so at Domaine de l’Arlot and at Clos de Tart, Jacques has divided the 8.8-hectare grand cru into several smaller plots, vinifying each separately as he deems fit before combining them together as the final bottling. As the entire plot slopes upward from clayey soils bordering the D122 Route des Grands Crus towards limestone on higher ground in the west, it makes sense to manage each micro-terroir individually. Indeed, when we tasted each of these micro-cuvée separately from barrel, the differences were palpable. When we met up with Jacques Devauges again on the morning of 26 September 2024 (seven years after he last hosted us at Clos de Tart), he was keen to emphasise that the final bottling is not a blend; nothing has been removed and neither has the proportions been tweaked. The interim sample that we tasted from barrel was superlative. Elsewhere, Domaine des Lambrays has also acquired choice parcels in Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saints-Georges, and they were showing beautifully. Clearly, the arrival of Jacques Devauges and the flush of unlimited resources from the new owners have sparked a renaissance for Domaine des Lambrays. Prices are much higher, undoubtedly, but the wines are absolutely compelling, forcing your hand as quantities are so limited. A very big merci beaucoup, Jacques, for your friendship and time in spite of the difficult harvest. Till we meet again.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Morey-Saint-Denis. Classic pinot tint. Perfumed bouquet of rosy hues with good presence of plummy fruit. Very lithe and lively with tensile acidity. Good verve and length.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Les Loups. Good colour. Dryish nose of malt and rye. Very well integrated and structured with fine minerality and complexity, exuding subtle intensity and sweetness. This cuvée no longer includes “younger” vines of Clos des Lambrays as they have matured.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Clos Baulet. Good colour. Rosy hues with a dash of malt, somewhat restrained. The fruit here is excellent, layered with refined acidity and good complexity, producing fleshy textures with a trace of sweetness. Located right in front of the domaine.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Clos Sorbe. Just across the road from Clos Baulet, from reddish soils rich in iron. Good colour. Lovely lift of rose petals and raspberries. Appreciably fuller, showing plenty of body and layering with rounded elegant tannins. Lovely freshness, finishing with tangy mouthfeel.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Vosne-Romanée 1er Beaux Monts. Good colour. Somewhat restrained on the nose though the palate is imbued with excellent depth of fruit that recall blueberries, dark cherries and currants. Appropriately weighty, very well integrated with understated intensity and sublime acidity, imparting superb fleshy mouthfeel. Doesn’t call attention to itself. Moderate finish. From a 0.45 ha plot.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er La Richemone. Good colour. Some restraint is evident though the classic Nuits-Saint-Georges character comes through in its minerally earthiness that imbues the darkish fruit. Seamlessly integrated with great refinement and rounded elegant tannins, laced with a dash of sweetness. Excellent.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru (Plante Bas). Coming from the lower portion of the estate (clayey soils), next to Clos de la Roche. Good colour. Generous in red fruits and raspberries. Ripe and velvety with some sweetness in tow, tinged with earthy ferrous elements.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru (Milieu). Coming from the middle portion of the estate. Deep colour. Dryish nose of malt and rye, recalling wet pebbles as well while exotic spices and herbs dominate on the palate, displaying good vigour with elegant tension and intensity.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru (Haut). Coming from the highest part of the estate (ie. westerly) adjacent to Clos de Tart, predominantly from limestone soils. Good colour. Weightier bouquet of red fruits with understated characters on the fleshy medium palate, underscored by a dash of minerally elements. Highly integral, showing good sophistication with aristocratic restraint.

2023 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. This provisional sample boasts great colour and complexity, displaying a glorious lift of fruit with a full spectrum of flavours. Very generously imbued with sublime acidity and complex layers of fruit and spices on a base of understated minerals with a dash of sweetness in tow, glowing with controlled energy throughout its superb length. Every bit the Grand Cru that it is, and more. This is destined for greatness. Outstanding.