2017 Domaine Montille Corton-Charlemagne 2015 Domaine des Lambrays Clos Lambrays 2014 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche

As I’d mentioned in my last post, we encountered another example of Ramonet’s Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos du Caillerets monopole, from supposedly an ex-domaine OWC purchased from FICOFI, that was way over-developed for its age. Another bottle that was similarly affected that evening, 17 February 2025 at Imperial Treasure Great World, was the Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. It may be prudent to drink your burgundy whites before ten years of age. Many thanks, Vic, for hosting.

2017 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Pale. Quite effusive in orchard fruit and pears with understated minerals. Quite full, displaying greater depth over time with a teasing intensity underscored by slick acidity, turning a tad reductive though maintaining its structured elegance and linearity, oozing a trace of sweetness at the end.

2015 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Looking quite developed in its deep golden hues with overtones of ferrous oxide, marmite and musty pochai. Quite slick and supple, displaying a distilled clarity with fine focus, supported by a firm minerally spine that lend a distinct austerity, made even more pronounced by its recessed chalkiness. Fleshed out with greater body and richness over time, though its finish remained modest. I still managed to pick it out as Corton-Charlemagne though its unexpectedly rapid development (last tasted in 2022) is rather alarming.

2017 Domaine Pierre-Yvés Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Chenevottes, courtesy of Vic. Pale. Shut on the nose, while the fullish palate is distinctly reductive, almost austere. Fleshed out well after some time with a sleek rounded profile, more chalky and perfumed in orchard fruits with understated minerals.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos du Caillerets monopole, courtesy of Winfred. Another example of a white that has developed far more rapidly than expected, displaying mature golden hues. Not showing much on the nose though the rounded palate is beautifully proportioned, seamlessly integrated with great definition but the dense autumnal tones still weigh quite heavily. Winfred said other bottles from the same case had tasted similarly. Again rather alarming.

2014 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, a unique bottling specially made for FICOFI, courtesy of Winfred. Classic pinot tint, proffering a superb pointed rosy fragrance from the ample layers of darkish fruit and currants, underscored by terse acidity that imparted lovely tension and supple intensity, yet understated on the whole. Wonderfully balanced and delicious, oozing breed and pedigree.

2014 Domaine Tawse Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Darkish pinot tint. Displaying some evolution with a quiet restraint of cherries and mature red fruits though open with inviting presence, structured with masculine tones that imbue the palate with nervous energy and rasping intensity.

2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Darkish in colour and tone, exuding a dense racy bouquet of enamel, varnish and heated gravel. Equally concentrated and unyielding on the masculine palate, structured with massive power and presence. Made from younger vines of Musigny Grand Cru, fed on steroids.

2015 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Opaque crimson with a predominance of red fruits. Generously proportioned, richly imbued with red fruits laid on velvety textures, structured with masculine tones and supple power. One for the long haul.

1996 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Saint-Jacques, courtesy of LF. Opaque brownish crimson, exuding a gentle reductive earthiness that belies the outstanding freshness emanating from the ample density of mature red fruits that exude overtones of haw and velvetiness with an elusive quality, underpinned by sleek acidity. Modest finish.

2008 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Some age is evident from the evolved bright crimson, exuding a delicious lift of rosy hues and red fruits with savoury characters. Generously layered with fine density of fruit, still wonderfully fresh and intense though there is an element of gruffness, probably a function of the vintage. Good length.