2016 La Forge de Tart, 2001 Flor de Pingus, 2003 Carruades, 2009 Chapelle d’Ausone, 2018 Egon Müller Le Gallais Kabinett

One look and you know this line-up at Imperial Treasure Great World on 30 November 2021 is all about the so-called second wines of prime estates, though there is certainly nothing second-rate about such wines as they often hail from the same vineyard or special parcels, receiving the same viticultural attention and expertise. In fact, they represent great value except, perhaps, for Carruades which costs much more than a Super Second grand vin. 

2016 La Forge de Tart Morey-Saint-Denis 1er. Translucent purple. Forward nose of fresh ripe berries. Medium weight. Good fullness and purity of fruit, delicious with a youthful vibrancy on a base of subtle ferrous elements. Became considerably lighter after some time, distinctly feminine, before fleshing out with a richer body, exuding a rosy perfumed presence. Doesn’t quite possess the depth and finish of the Grand Cru but its proportion and balance is quite impeccable. Made from the re-planting of three subplots of Clos de Tart monopole in 2011, 2005 and 1999 (https://winebyric.com/2017/11/24/understanding-domaine-du-clos-de-tart/) where the vines have not yet reached optimal maturity and, hence, the grapes are declassified.

2009 Chapelle d’Ausone, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Deep purple. Enticing bouquet of haw, dark roses and early cedary characters with sweet overtones. Lovely warm velvety fullness in the mouth, imparting a structured supple intensity. Very well proportioned, just a tad short. On par with classified growths. Excellent.

2001 Flor de Pingus, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Utterly funky with a deep earthy pungency on the nose in stark contrast the juicy succulence of ripe aged plums and tertiary characters on the fleshy medium weight palate, laid on sweet velvety tannins. Excellent.

2003 Carruades de Lafite, courtesy of Vic. Mature crimson. Superb lift of haw, dark plums, complex red fruits and peaches amid an attractive earthiness. Medium weight. Still fresh and fleshy, imbued with delightful lithe agility and warmth on an earthy base, slightly peaty. Impeccably balanced and proportioned. Carries the breed and class of Lafite Rothschild. Excellent.

2018 Egon Müller Le Gallais Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett, courtesy of LF. Pale. Intoxicating profusion of pungent diesel fumes on the nose, matched by a deep palate of tangy tropical fruits that exude very fine detail with sublime acidity and lush intensity that sweep to a slightly austere finish of stony minerals, its sweetness never in the way. Superb.