Ric re-visits Tertre Roteboeuf

The Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour had the distinct pleasure of visiting Tertre Roteboeuf again on 07 June 2023. Located at a high vantage point on clay and limestone soils, this small estate has expanded to just a shade over six hectares, having recently acquired a small parcel downslope. We were hosted by Henri, son of the legendary François Mitjavile, who seems contented to continue the work of his father without being too disruptive, which I guess is not a bad thing at all for lovers of this estate. François himself did make an appearance later in the cellars, still looking hale and hearty, and it was especially touching to see the close affection between père et fil. François had expounded at length regarding his philosophy about Tertre Roteboeuf during our previous visit which I shan’t repeat here. Henri fulfilled our request to pop a back vintage (we chose the 1985) that is still very much at its peak, while an extended tasting across its range of current vintage proved this estate to still be in very fine form. Merci beaucoup, Henri, for your time and generosity, and to François for gracing our visit and we wish you good health ahead.

2022 Domaine de Cambes. Barrel sample comprising 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc, made at a location two kilometres from the Côtes de Bourg. Deep purple. Some bush and bramble on the nose, slightly reductive with a distinct humid note that is a nod to its terroir by the river. Concentrated and fleshy, imbued with a savouriness and fine acidity on an earthy base.

2022 Roc de Cambes. Barrel sample comprising 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc planted on the slopes of the Côtes de Bourg. Deep purple. Fruit forward with a suggestion of heated wet stones, pampering the palate with plush intensity of red fruits on the back of structured dryish tannins, showing good definition.

2022 Tertre Roteboeuf. Barrel sample. Aromatic floral glow of red roses and red fruits. Beautifully ripe, concentrated and savoury, yet impeccably balanced and proportioned, structured with plush tannins that impart velvety textures and good power. Absolutely harmonious. Has just the correct level of extraction. Finished well with glowing intensity. A glorious Tertre Roteboeuf to be.

2017 Tertre Roteboeuf. Deep ruby. Distilled red fruit and rosy hues. Considerably more gentle, highly supple and fleshy with understated soft tannins and acidity yet imbued with tactile intensity. Highly integral. Very harmonious throughout its length, underpinned with just a hint of wild game. Held its ground in spite of coming after the 2022. Highly successful.

1985 Château Tertre Roteboeuf. Deep crimson still. Freshly popped, this wine opens with an attractive funk along with tertiary characters of dried longans and mature wild berries. Still ample in fruit that is a little more forwardly balanced, displaying youthful suppleness and cool easy charm. Absolutely harmonious, developing further overtones of glutinous rice leaves. Superb!