2014 Machard de Gramont Les Gaudichots, 2015 Georges Noëllat V-R Les Petits Monts, 2016 Georges Noëllat V-R Les Beaux Monts, 2011 Dujac Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts, 2015 Jean Grivot V-R Les Beaux Monts & 2015 Sylvain Cathiard V-R En Orveaux

Barrie very kindly hosted an evening of Vosne-Romanée 1er for a small group at Imperial Treasure Teochew, ION Orchard, on 19 January 2024. All wines were blinded. Given the exorbitant pricing of grand crus and the often inconsistent form of Flagey-Echézeaux (purists don’t even consider it as part of Vosne-Romanée), it makes sense to drink premier cru instead as many of these lie at good altitude or actually abut other illustrious plots of 1er or grand cru. Many thanks to all!

2017 Thomas Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Barrie. Pale golden. This wine opens with cool distant floral tones marked by a fairly pronounced acidity. Very lively on the full palate where white truffles and dried plums dominate, exerting a tight reductive delicate intensity that shone with refined purity, veering towards Meursault in expression rather than Puligny. Modest finish.

2017 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Clos Saint-Landry, courtesy of Kieron. Luminous gold. This monopole is correct in every way, teasing the senses with a soft vanillin sweetness leading to a detailed glowing intensity of distinct ferrous elements before settling down with great clarity and transparency, exuding an even rounded presence with early secondary characters that is the epitome of cool elegance, finishing with lingering persistence. I guessed a Saint-Aubin but this plot is unheard of. Very classy. An astute buy.

2015 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 1er, courtesy of Andre. Good colour, exuding a lovely cool ripeness of red fruits and haw amid traces of paraffin. Open and deliciously layered with ample fruit and sublime acidity that confer exquisite intensity and grip, finishing with persistent length. Highly integral. Shows tremendous breed and sophistication.

2015 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Vic. Deeply coloured, proffering an effusive reductive earthiness to match the voluptuous depth of delicious black fruits and currants. Very sleek and beautifully nuanced, its superb purity further enhanced by the slightly forward balance but only medium-weight in spite of its ample tone. A wine of great power and breed. Superb.

2015 Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er. Deeply coloured. Rather bold on the nose, boasting a delicious fragrance of black cherries, dark plums and currants though the sleek palate is only medium-weight, rather cool with distilled layers of fruit underpinned by a muted minerally presence, promising potential power.

2016 Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of MH. Deep purple. Concentrated presence of ripe raspberries, mulberries and sweet currants that impart darkish tones punctuated by occasional spots of bright cherries. A little racy in its excellent verve and controlled power.

2011 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint. Rather shy on the nose, proffering just a hint of gravelly warmth. The medium-weight palate is generously layered in warm red fruits laid on a deeper darker vein with a pronounced acidity. Highly cohesive and open with a controlled intensity, tinged with a dash of malt. Doesn’t quite possess the usual leathery richness of a Dujac but this is still highly persuasive.

2014 Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots 1er, courtesy of Barrie. Lovely pinot tint. Open with an exquisite racy intensity of red fruits and kumquat, exuding an integral cool ripeness with understated verve. Quite brightly lit with lovely purity of fruit. Impeccably balanced with a distinct feminine stance though not short of power. Excellent.