Ric re-visits Château Clos Fourtet

Probably the first château one sees when driving into the village centre of Saint-Émilion is Château Clos Fourtet, announced by a pair of stone pillars holding up its wrought iron gate. Indeed, there is an ancient low wall surrounding the entire property, a reminder of its role as a defensive fort during The Hundred Years War (1337-1453) – hence its name Clos Fourtet. The estate has holdings of 22 hectares after absorbing an adjacent 2-ha of what used to be Château Les Grandes Murailles, a plot just immediately after that tall wall of ruins. The estate was bought over by Philippe Cuvelier in 2001 (who also owns Château Poujeaux) and has been biodynamic since 2011, planted with 85% merlot on soils of clay and limestone, the former being cool soils that helps to retain moisture whilst the latter adds power and freshness to the wine. Members of the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour were privileged to have visited the château twice, in June 2019 and on 05 June 2023. There is an amazing system of underground caves under the property that stretches 12 kilometres, where countless bottles of back vintages of Clos Fourtet all the way to the early twentienth century lie quietly at stable humidity and temperatures of 12-14 degrees Celsius. Like many other estates, the château has raised its game since the new millennium. Its wines in the last decade have garnered critical acclaim for their excellent precision, layering and sophistication with restrained power, proven by an encounter I had with its 2020 at Vinexpo Asia just a couple of weeks earlier. This has transformed the château into a Premier Grand Cru Classé. Do visit if you can.

2005 Château Clos Fourtet, comprising 86% merlot, 8% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc aged in 60% new oak Deep crimson. Bit of warm alcoholic breath on the nose amid deeper notes of ripe plums, cherries and currants, already displaying early secondary characters of cedar and mahogany. Fleshy and sleek, structured with sublime acidity. Well integrated with very fine inner definition, layered with darker shades of fruit. Not overtly deep nor opulent, finishing with good linearity and sweet tannins without betraying its 14.5% abv. Tasted June 2019 at the château.

2009 Château Les Grandes Murailles. From a 2-ha plot of 100% merlot producing 5000 bottles, aged in 100% new oak. Brilliant crimson. Superb seductive fragrance of delicious dark cherries. Fairly rich as well in bright red fruits, cherries and currants on the softly-rounded, fleshy medium palate, very subtly structured with very fine depth, exuding lovely gentle intensity. Finished well. 14% abv. Tasted June 2019 at Château Clos Fourtet.

2017 Château Clos Fourtet, comprising 86% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 4% cabernet franc. Deep bouquet of sweet berries, mulberries and raspberries. Excellent fullness, exerting good tensile presence with a distinct minerally mid-palate. Slightly assertive in acidity but it helps with the freshness. Good balance. Tasted June 2023 at the château.