Ric arrives at Château Valandraud

One of the pioneers of the garagiste movement, Château Valandraud has evolved into one of the most successful estates in Bordeaux. Founded in 1991 by self-crafted “bad boy” Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle Andraud (Valandraud is derived from “Val” (valley) and her name) and, perhaps, driven by Jean-Luc’s innate rebellious streak, the château has continually challenged conventional wisdom in the pursuit of absolute purity of expression in its wines. Which vigneron from a branded property in Bordeaux would deliberately create a line called Thunevin Bad Boy (a.k.a. marvais garçon in French) or would break A.O.C. rules in order to make wine in extreme weather (like Jean-Luc did in 2000 by covering the vines with plastic sheets to drain off excess water) and still be able to market the de-classified wines successfully (as L’Interdit de Valandraud)? From its humble beginnings as a tiny 0.6-ha in Saint-Émilion village, Château Valandraud now operates from a different location in St-Etienne-de-Lisse, spanning eight hectares of 70% merlot, 25% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon planted at a density of more than 8000 vines/ha. The château embraces innovation with feverish passion and employs micro-vinification techniques, fermenting small batches of grapes separately to gain deeper understanding of their respective terroir which, in turns, allows for greater precision in blending to create a complex and harmonious grand vin. The wine is vinified in a mix of stainless steel, oak and concrete vats, and aged in 100% new barrels. Those who feel that such modern approaches would create over-extracted monstrosities would most certainly be surprised by the 2006 Château Valandraud, a model for elegant Right Bank to rival any of the best. The estate’s rare white, Valandraud Blanc, is also another unconventional beauty, made mostly from sauvignon gris. Clever marketing has tremendously increased the château’s visibility; the tiny village of Saint-Émilion is dotted with several self-promoting retail outlets run by the Thunevin company that are only too happy to ship their wines worldwide to your doorstep. Jean-Luc has certainly come a long way, evidenced by the modern buildings and facilities (completed in 2021) at the estate when a few members of the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour visited in the afternoon of 07 June 2023. And, to top it off after an excellent tasting session, we actually bumped into the man himself as he was enjoying a quiet afternoon by the patio!! Speaking only French, his face lit up when he learnt that we hailed from Singapore, for he remembered with fondness his deep friendship with the late Dr N K Yong who had been a staunch supporter of Jean-Luc since the early days when he was struggling to get Valandraud going. Merci Jean-Luc for a most memorable visit and we wish you good health always.

2016 Virginie de Valandraud. Crimson. Good expanse of fruit and subtle minerals with a warm pebbly glow, structured with sweet tannins that impart fine intensity and attack with sharp definition. Good balance, finishing with good linearity.

2016 Château Valandraud. Deep ruby. Sweet floral overtones of red fruits and plums. Only medium weight, though highly elegant in its supple coolness, delivering lovely mouthfeel with fleeting intensity and fine definition. Not at all heavy.

2016 L’Interdit de Valandraud. Deep crimson. Highly aromatic in ripe red fruits laid with a lush warmth. Open with delicious supple intensity. Made from 100% merlot without quite adhering to strict A.O.C. regulations (plastic sheets were used to drain off excess water during viticulture), hence its unique name. Examine the label closely and you’ll see a pair of hands gripping jail bars, a metaphor most apt.

2014 Château Valandraud. Bright crimson. Generous layers of red fruits on a distinct minerally base that added some earthiness, boasting good verve and supple freshness. Finely balanced. A classic Valandraud, yet to peak.

2006 Château Valandraud. Made from 100% merlot. Some evolution is evident with a profusion of haw and translucent red fruits. Very softly contoured and open, totally seamless, exuding quite a heavenly floral glow from its quiet supple depth. Most elegant. At its best.

2020 Virgine de Valandraud Blanc. Pale greenish hue. Condensed palate of zesty tropical fruit that teased with fine agility and intensity, underscored by a highly subtle minerally vein. Very slightly buttery, fanning out with good precision and clarity. Good balance. Mostly semillon.

2019 Valandraud Blanc. Mostly sauvignon gris. Lovely luminosity. Gleaming nose, not too buttery. Delicate medium presence, imbued with cool white tones that exert fine tension and crisp acidity topped with icing, yielding great clarity.

1975 Thunevin-Calvet Maury. Pale brownish. Powerful medicinal glow of autumnal fruit still imbued with fresh acidity, culminating in a warm minty finish.