2011 Bouchard Chevalier, 2011 Clos de Tart, 2011 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet, 1995 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, 2008 Domaine Leroy Vosne Beaux Monts, 1994 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot GCru, 2011 Armand Rousseau Chambertin GCru, 2011 Armand Rousseau Clos de Bèze GCru, 2017 Jean Yves Bizot Marsannay Clos du Roy 1997 Domaine Romanée-Conti La Tâche

The usual suspects convened at Imperial Treasure Great World City on 17 July 2023, focusing on a theme of “red cap” that is a reference to the prohibitively priced domaine wines of Domaine Leroy. But, of course, only a lucky few can boast of them in their collection and, so, I must thank everyone for generously sharing their prized trophies and the likes. All the wines were blinded. By sheer coincidence, the whites were a pair of 2011 Puligny grand crus, while there was also a 2011 pair of Armand Rousseau Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, allowing a rare side-by-side comparison. Amazing as well was how well the 2019 Nicole Lamarche Bourgogne stood against the 1995 Leroy Pommard, both paired in the same flight, proving that top quality exists at all levels. Merci beaucoup!

2011 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Light luminosity. This wine opens with distant floral hues in soft focus, dominated by saline minerals on the medium-full palate. Well layered with pale citrus, gaining traction and intensity as it warmed up in the glass, fleshing out eventually with delicate textures amid traces of nutmeg. Very fresh and impeccably balanced, perhaps just a little short. Doesn’t possess the usual plump heaviness of Leflaive, which I feel is a good thing. Yet to peak.

2011 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Golden luminosity. Surprisingly reticent, warming up with white tones and vanillin not unlike a Chassagne, eventually developing a rounded glowing delicate presence, boasting sleek acidity and refinement with a teasing elegant intensity that is classical of Bouchard’s Puligny grand crus. Still a little tight. Far from ready but already a pleasure to drink if one has the patience to do so over 4-5 hours.

2019 Nicole Lamarche Bourgogne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Classic pinot tint. Fairly exuberant bouquet of rose petals and raspberries, displaying vibrant youthful intensity with fine clarity and detail. Very well integrated and balanced, structured with rounded gentle tannins that impart a distinct feminine grace.

2008 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Anthony. Some age is evident, exuding a lovely lift of red fruit, cherries and haw with a trailing whiff of matchstick incense. Wonderfully sleek, the supple fruit caught at full maturity with melted tannins, simply poised with elegant tension from the sublime acidity, laced with a slight darkish intensity without any trace of burliness from this vintage. Utterly seamless. Shows real class and pedigree.

1995 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, courtesy of Sir Bob. Aged pinot tint. Somewhat restrained. The fruit that comes through is clearly mature though more recessed and backward than a previous bottle tasted in August 2021, imbued with tertiary characters of mandarins, haw and cinnamon underscored by tight acidity that is a little more pronounced now. The balance eventually righted itself after a couple of hours with the emergence of more fruit to the fore, still wonderfully fresh, carried with excellent verve and purity by the gorgeous acidity.

2011 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru. Some early bricking, proffering distant red fruits with lighter, delicate tones. Very well-integrated and open. Rather demure in demeanour in its refined presence and purity of fruit, layered with subtle acidity, boasting excellent freshness and balance.

2011 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson, exuding a perfumed exuberance of delicious red fruits and varnish. Generously endowed where the fruit, acidity and tannins are structured with sharp precision, brimming with youthful balance and vigour, turning a little more introspective over time with the emergence of austere minerality.

1997 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Mature pinot tint, proffering a distinct note of red capsicum on the nose that overshadowed the fruit. The palate is imbued with a great lift of fruit, still wonderfully ripe and fresh, imparting supple intensity amid darkish overtones. Very seamlessly integrated, just missing the sheer opulence and layered decadence of the best years.

1997 Williams Selyem Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Some age is evident in colour and in its autumnal character, its New World origin immediately recognisable from its darkish minty tones laced with sweet robust tannins though very well-integrated with excellent balance. Still rather fresh and ample. Caught at peak form.

2017 Domaine Jean Yves Bizot Marsannay Clos du Roy, courtesy of Anthony. The faded crimson hues are most deceptive. Soft red fruits and tangerines dominate with a lively high-toned acidity, seamlessly structured with delicate presence, exuding a poised elegance in spite of its tremendous verve. Shows great balance and control, finishing with superb linearity. Unbelievable from Marsannay. Now I’m beginning to understand a little about its crazy pricing.

2011 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Alvin. Displaying an evolved crimson, this wine bathes the palate in a deep velvety warmth, seamlessly structured and integrated with subtle layers of fruit of aristocratic breed whilst the usual minerally presence of Chambertin (as opposed to neighbouring Clos de Bèze) is kept in check. Impeccably proportioned.

1994 Domaine Leroy Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Clearly well evolved in colour, proffering a superb lift of mature dark fruits that still boast superb freshness and sublime acidity, gliding across the medium palate with effortless grace. Utterly seamless. Caught at the pinnacle of peak maturity. Outstanding.

2018 Nicole Lamarche Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely pinot tint, exuding fresh raspberries and currants with youthful swagger and verve, structured with sharp delineation and precision cushioned by rounded gentle tannins that appear to be the style of Nicole Lamarche. Good sophistication.