Rose & Arrow Estate 2021: Chardonnay, Riverline, Highland Close & Stonecreek, and Gathered Stones 2021, 2019, 2017

By now, most people may be aware that Rose & Arrow Estate began in 2012 as a collaborative effort between the late Mark Tarlov (a film producer who also started Evening Lands) and Louis-Michel Comte Liger-Belair of the eponymous domaine in Vosne-Romanée, looking to produce the best expression of Oregon pinot noir through a fastidious in-depth study of volcanic basalt soils of the Willamette Valley, largely conducted by Chilean geologist Pedro Parra along with fellow compatriot and winemaker Felipe Ramirez. By discovering the relative densities of various parts of the land through conductivity tests, Felipe has mapped out the best plots to plant their vines, each really an irregularly-shaped polygonal micro-cuvée with its own micro-terroir. While they own or farm over 60 hectares of land there, less than four percent goes into the prestigious Rose & Arrow cuvées. The estate has since ended its relationship with Comte Liger-Belair after its 2018 vintage; its viticulture and winemaking are now entirely in-house, led by Felipe Ramirez. However, the ties with Vosne-Romanée still exist in the usage of French barrels that are still flown in every year, of which about twenty-percent consists of new oak. The 2021 line-up below (the entire range of Rose & Arrow is much more extensive) was specially organised by one of the estate’s partners, Tristan Sjoberg, at Atout, Singapore, on 23 April 2024 where we were joined by Felipe himself as well as CEO Ian Lombard. After the masculine and assertive 2019s and the disastrous wildfire smoke-drenched 2020s (where only a total of 400 cases were produced), it is good to report that the 2021s appear to hark back towards the style of 2018, wines that are much more naturally balanced and elegant with unforced expression of pinot noir. The reds are largely de-stemmed, though one would never have guessed from the earthy warmth that characterised each wine. Patience is required. Many thanks, Tristan and Sir Bob!

2021 Rose & Arrow Estate Eola Springs Chardonnay. Lovely luminosity. Shut initially with just a whiff of diesel. That changed quickly into a lovely bloom of white tones and clear citrus laced with a distinct salinity, beautifully balanced with a soft feminine intensity, glowing with refined clarity amid a dash of reductive quality in its chiseled structure. Not surprising, considering that whole clusters are vinified in stainless steel tanks. From Eola-Amity at 600 feet elevation; only 125 cases (of twelve bottles) annually.

2021 Rose & Arrow Estate Riverline. Subtle darkish tones on the nose, leading to a softly contoured palate of red fruits that struck a lovely contrast against minerally undertones, displaying chiseled definition with refined energy and balance, finishing with lengthy persistence. It reminds me very much of a classic Nuits-Saint-Georges. From Chehalem Mountain at 700 feet elevation; only 99 cases annually.

2021 Rose & Arrow Estate Highland Close. Darkish tint of pinot. Rather tight on the nose though the medium-full palate is ample in raspberries and dark cherries, a little more forwardly placed but well juxtaposed against elegant tannins, morphing after some time into an integral seamless entity, stretching out with superb linearity and lithe intensity. Excellent. This should develop very well in bottle. From Chehalem Mountain at 700 feet elevation; only 138 cases annually.

2021 Rose & Arrow Estate Stonecreek. Touted as a Grand Cru equivalent, this wine opens with restrained darkish tones though it’s evident there’s plenty lurking beneath, taking its time to develop subtle layers of warm ripe fruit marked by a predominance of red plums and mulberries, structured with rounded tannins though the bracing acidity is slightly terse, developing further weight and controlled intensity with a seamless elegance. Modest finish. May need more time in bottle but it’s Highland Close that’s showing better at this stage. From Eola-Amity Hills at 450 feet elevation; only 99 cases annually.

2017 Rose & Arrow Estate Gathered Stones. Lovely colour. Very correct in every way, exuding a lifted feminine fragrance with a sense of warm gravel. Beautifully ripe and rounded, displaying exemplary balance with subtle verve and delicious detail without any hint of over-extraction, its refined tannins imparting effortless grace. Dare I say…very Vosne-like? From Eola-Amity Hills at 350 feet elevation; only 137 cases annually.

2019 Rose & Arrow Estate Gathered Stones. Darkish in colour and tone. Considerably more restrained than the 2017 though a gravelly warmth is discernible. A little more intense and fuller as well on the palate with a forward balance of darkish fruit, boasting lovely tannin structure. Distinctly masculine.

2021 Rose & Arrow Estate Gathered Stones. Good colour. Medium-full, imbued with ample depth of bright red fruits and refined acidity that impart supple intensity. Still primal but showing plenty of lovely detail and integral warmth, quite impeccably balanced without any hint of alcoholic heat. Huge promise here; will it be a 2017?