2011 Bonneau Martray Corton-Charlemagne 2005 PYCM Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1991 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet, 2016 François Lamarche Grands Échezeaux, 2014 Clos de Tart, 1996 Mugnier Musigny, 2021 Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin and 2014 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée

The usual suspects gathered at Buona Terra on 21 May 2024 on a theme of “burgs to impress”. The line-up turned out to be quite stunning where even a village could hold its ground against more exalted drops. All wines were blinded. Thank you all for your immense generosity, and to Gabrielle for the expert wine service.

2011 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Pale. Nutmeg and intense clear citrus dominate amid a tinge of green capsicum that exude glowing freshness. Medium-full. Seamlessly integrated, blossoming later with exquisite intensity of dense pineapples and orchard fruit on a minerally base, settling eventually with a rounded warmth. Modest finish. A faithful representation of the vintage for burg whites.

2005 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Some age is evident from the dull golden hue. The lovely bouquet of cane sugar with a laidback chalkiness is most unusual for PYCM; in fact, it resembled a classic Leflaive nose! Beautifully integral, displaying exquisite intensity with a glazed creaminess of early maturity that extend all the way to a glowing finish of charcoal and ember. We tend to drink PYCMs way too young; will they all mature in this manner?

1991 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely luminosity. Unusual nose, rather distant and shy, just a suggestion of freshly struck matchstick. Distinctly reductive with a deep minerally vein supporting the structured white tones. Clearly mature but still wonderfully vibrant and full, evolving with fleeting intensity of nutmeg and green notes before moving on to longans and lychees, boasting excellent inner detail with aristocratic character throughout its length. Superb.

2020 Frédéric Cossard Morey-Saint-Denis Les Mont Luisants 1er, courtesy of Gabrielle. Bright crimson, opening with an illusion of fizz from the ample presence of juicy red fruits underpinned by a distinct earthiness. Very correctly nuanced. Bears a certain resemblance to a Prieuré Roch.

2021 Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin, courtesy of Anthony. Good colour. Alluring hues of rose petals and cherries with a vegetal tinge that taper with a focused soft intensity on the rounded medium palate, displaying an attractive fleshy presence with lovely balance and precise acidity tempered by an understated sweetness. Beautifully smooth and polished. From a Japanese who had done time at Armand Rousseau and Roulot.

2014 Domaine Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée, courtesy of Anthony. Lovely pinot tint. Focused bouquet of ripe berries and darkish rosy hues though there is considerable restraint. Softly contoured with an alluring feminine intensity, where its youthful freshness is tempered with a certain elegance. Very well-proportioned and balanced, displaying fine definition. Drinking beautifully. Easily on par with any premier cru.

2015 Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er. Dark in colour and tone. Effusive in black fruits with a splash of menthol and mocha. Powerfully structured though there is a certain supple warmth. Still tight and unyielding. Maxime Chuerlin may have overdone it somewhat for it resembles more of Vosne-Romanée to the north. Really took a long time to open up just a little. Not ready. The domaine’s NSG Aux Boudots 1er of the same vintage is much more persuasive.

2006 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Christiane 1er, courtesy of Alvin. Classic pinot tint. Open with alluring soft textures where the excellent fruit is rooted by an earthy minerally vein. Rounded and elegant with very good refinement, yielding fine detail though the finish is modest. This special plot of de Montille actually slips into the southern end of La Tâche, separated from the grand cru only by a fault in the land. But it makes a difference.

2016 Domaine François Lamarche Grands Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Darkish pinot tint, proffering a concentrated bouquet of intense dark berries with a tinge of green capsicum that carry well onto the medium-full palate, boasting precise definition of fruit, tannins and refined acidity that impart subtle intensity.

2014 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru monopole, courtesy of Vic. Good colour. Very very lovely on the nose, boasting a glorious lift of top-drawer red fruits with a hint of nail varnish. Slightly velvety in texture from its detailed tannins and overtones of paraffin. Utterly beguiling and seductive. Highly elegant. Delicious.

1996 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Dull opaque pinot tint, igniting the senses with a soft exquisite intensity of mature raspberries amidst an autumnal complex. Beautifully integrated and glowing with a certain richness and precision in its inner detail. Impeccably balanced, displaying a flowing noble elegance that is a reflection of the great man himself. Outstanding.