1998 Château Lafite Rothschild

I had the good fortune to drink another First Growth, courtesy of John, of the same vintage the same week that I had the 1998 Château Ausone and 1998 Château Haut-Brion at Otto Ristorante on 14 October 2021 in the midst of dine-in restrictions. But first, to pair with white truffle (from Toscana) pasta, was the 2008 Champagne Pol Roger Brut. Light golden, this wine exuded a highly inviting depth of toast and yeasty characters enhanced by a gleaming chalky glow, fleshing out quite rapidly with a glorious tone of intense citrus amid overtones of honeysuckle and brioche. Superbly balanced with a rich opulence, tapering gently with excellent length and linearity. I find this a lot more attractive and ready than the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2008 which is too dry and acerbic at this stage.

The 1998 Château Lafite Rothschild deserved nothing less than a 600g wagyu ribeye that restaurant manager Paolo Zanni had specially arranged. Decanted on-site, this wine proffered a nose of ripe blueberries, dark cherries, black fruits and dark currants though distinctly feminine in its alluring restraint. Equally gentle upon its entry, soft, beautifully rounded and supple with highly understated gentle verve. Utterly seamless with lithesome charm, exuding a mild floral fragrance with a dash of capsicum and spice. Caught at its peak. Many thanks, John!