Ric visits Domaine Yvon Clerget

Thibaud Clerget represents a select group of young winemakers set to dominate the world of burgundy in the near future, if it isn’t already happening. At only thirty-two, he has already made nine vintages of Domaine Yvon Clerget since 2015 (after completing several years of understudy at Henri Boillot and Hudelot-Noëllat under Charles van Canneyt). This domaine, named after Thibaud’s father, was established centuries ago in 1268 and has been with the family throughout this time. After Yvon’s retirement in 2009, the grapes were sold to Henri Boillot for the next few years until Thibaud was ready to assume leadership. When we visited this rustic property in Pommard on the morning of 25 September 2024, Thibaud had just completed the harvest, notable by now for its severely low yield. He is happy with the quality of whatever precious grapes that are available, now going through alcoholic fermentation where one could hear the quiet buzz of carbon dioxide being released from the open vats. It was good to learn that the domaine has increased its holdings to ten hectares, mostly in Volnay but there are Pommard Rugiens 1er and Clos Vougeot Grand Cru as well. Amiable and approachable, Thibaud exudes the quiet confidence of someone who knows his stuff. He trains his vines in high trellis in the style of Lalou Bize-Leroy and Charles Lachaux. His viticulture is organic but not biodynamic. He uses only 20-30% new oak. It all seems to work, for Thibaud has enjoyed considerable success right from the start. I find the wines of Domaine Yvon Clerget to be consistently pure, highly expressive and integral without calling attention to themselves, not only those that we tasted from barrel, but earlier vintages as well drunk from restaurant lists. We even tasted the newly-harvested 2024 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er undergoing alcoholic fermentation right now: it already tastes so correct even at such an infantile stage. It’s clear Thibaud has a good understanding of his methods and the results they are producing, and he is still improving year-by-year. If Thibaud can get this difficult vintage right, there is no barrier to his success. Volnay may not sound sexy but once you have experienced Domaine Yvon Clerget, you are likely to be converted. Prices are still decent but probably not for long. And, lest I forget, this is the first time I’ve experienced barrel tasting in the cellars using Zalto stemware. Yes, those must-have paper-thin glasses; thank goodness we didn’t smash any of them. Thibaud clearly sets very, very high standards for everything he does. Merci beaucoup, Thibaud!

2023 Domaine Yvon Clerget Volnay. Aromatic red fruits with darker shades on the nose. Medium-full tensile feel, structured with fine precision.

2023 Domaine Yvon Clerget Volnay En Champans 1er. Aged in new barrels. Classic pinot tint. Complex nose of rose petals tinged with ash and paraffin. Medium-weight. Lovely balance and elegance, structured with unobtrusive tannins. Bottled only in magnums.

2023 Domaine Yvon Clerget Volnay Clos du Verseuil 1er monopole. Classic pinot tint. Delicious highly expressive bouquet of rosy hues with a tinge of paraffin. Great balance, exuding delicate elegance and feminine character with harmonious warmth. Beautiful.

2023 Domaine Yvon Clerget Volnay Les Caillerets 1er. From low-yielding 95-year-old vines grown on limestone soils. Highly aromatic. Fleshy medium presence with a deeper vein of fruit. Highly integral. Delicious.

2023 Domaine Yvon Clerget Pommard Les Rugiens 1er. Grown on ferrous soil. Good colour, exuding a feminine glow of red fruits. Medium-weight. Structured with precise tannins that impart refined elegance and linearity. Good finish.

2023 Domaine Yvon Clerget Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. Lovely luminosity. Some reduction on the nose with overtones of spice and ash. Fleshy and elegant, structured with detailed tannins. Impeccably proportioned, showing great balance and linearity. Only 0.5ha.