1996 Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc, 1976/1993 Robert Ampeau Volnay Santenots 2005 Louis Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules 2005 Bouchard Grèves Vigne L’Enfant Jésus 2017 Bernard Moreau Chassagne Cardeuse
For a change, we drank whites from the Côte-de-Nuits and reds from the Côte-de-Beaune at Imperial Treasure Great World on 04 November 2024, paired with its new menu of grilled meat and seafood. It proved to be a most insightful theme, for there is so much to enjoy outside of the usual favourite communes. Volnay and Pommard are likely to see explosive growth as vinophiles, finding themselves priced out of the Côte-de-Nuits, rediscover absolute gems just south of Beaune. Many thanks, gentlemen!
1995 Domaine Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Orangey in colour, proffering distinct autumnal tones of grapefruit and orange peel. Still quite fleshy and lively, very smoothly integrated with fine linearity though it’s somewhat one-dimensional, lacking true terroir identity.
1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc, courtesy of KG. Luminous, exuding restrained floral hues. The medium palate is wonderfully delicate and fleet-footed, imbued with distilled tones of complex citrus and haw, blossoming with lovely weight and presence before settling down with disarming charm, still underscored by sublime acidity, yielding superb definition and layering. Outstanding! From a 0.66 ha of chardonnay planted within Musigny Grand Cru. Not declared (bottled simply as Bourgogne Blanc) from 1994 to 2014 when old vines were uprooted and new ones planted.
2018 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Blanc, courtesy of Victor. Pale. Resolutely shut on the nose though the medium-weight palate is softly contoured with a rounded velvety mouthfeel, imparting a slight sweetness amidst its sleek acidity and understated intensity, finishing with a minerally dash.
2015 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er La Perrière. Pale, proffering distant white tones leading to an attractive medium-full supple presence, exuding floral hues and cool glacial tones with delicate elegance. Fleshed out well, tapering to an understated finish. Difficult to place, for this is, of course, not chardonnay.
2017 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, courtesy of LF. Light golden hue, exuding a distant chalky lift with a dash of crème. Medium-full. Wonderfully taut with crisp acidity and precision, yielding lovely definition with a hint of pineapples. Has real class and pedigree.
1976 Domaine Robert Ampeau Père et Fils Volnay Santenots 1er, courtesy of Vic. Distinctly mature, opening with a suggestion of taint that, thankfully, dissipated to reveal a profusion of rose petals amid sweet autumnal tones. Still astonishingly fresh, exerting lovely supple intensity. Impeccably balanced and integral, elegantly poised.
1993 Domaine Robert Ampeau Père et Fils Volnay Santenots 1er, courtesy of LF. Mature crimson, boasting ample presence of red fruits and rose petals on the nose and fullish palate that exert supple intensity with a bit of reductive earthiness that do not distract from the velvety freshness and gorgeous acidity. Unbelievably good.
2005 Domaine Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Clos des Ursules, courtesy of Kieron. Deeper tint of pinot. Cherries, earth and dark plums dominate with medium-full presence, softly contoured and integral. Still wonderfully fresh and youthful, dressed in silky smooth tannins. Delicious though a little short.
2011 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Les Mitans, courtesy of Kieron. Bright crimson, imbued with abundant red fruits entering early phase of maturity. Wonderfully fresh and supple, laced with fine acidity that evoke understated masculinity.
2005 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves 1er Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus, courtesy of KG. Mature crimson. Effusive in rosy hues, plums and haw from the concentrated ripe fruit entirely shorn of excesses, producing focused intensity with refined precision.
2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Cardeuse. Crimson. Superb complex of beguiling red fruits that teased with supple understated intensity, superbly integrated with sublime acidity. Thoroughly delicious.
