An evening with Thibault Liger-Belair & Jean-Michel Chartron

If you have walked around the slopes of Puligny-Montrachet, you would have noticed certain walled-off parcels (Clos de la Pucelle, Clos du Cailleret, Clos des Chevaliers) with arched entrances that spell Jean Chartron. Established in 1859, the domaine used to own the above parcels wholly before having to dispose parts of Cailleret and Chevalier in order to fund inheritance taxes, leaving only the walled sections of Pucelle and Chevaliers still intact as monopoles. It is surprising that a lot of so-called connoisseurs are unfamiliar with this domaine, for I have noted that Jean Chartron is actually well-represented in restaurant lists throughout Burgundy. The wines are superbly crafted with great purity and expression without the lofty price tags that are seemingly fashionable nowadays.

On the other hand, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair was formed only as recently as 2001 when Thibault took over from his father Vincent at the age of 26, though the vines have been family-owned since the 18th century when its winemaking was a conjoint effort between Claude Marey and Comte Liger-Belair. Although the domaine is based at Nuits-Saint-Georges, its substantial holdings in Vosne-Romanée are the envy of many. Entirely organic without being tied down by biodynamic dogma, Thibault is very precise in his judicious usage of oak, sulphur (very low levels) and stems, adjusting according to the unique quality of each vintage, resulting in wines that are consistently fresh, vibrant and full, still retaining its roots in terroir and tradition without veering into avant-garde.

For this private event at the three Michelin-starred Les Amis, Singapore, on 25 November 2024, both vignerons have generously supplied their wines in magnums (with the exception of the TLB Richebourg), which added further dimension. Particularly as well, Thibault had brought his Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts to share around, a wine that he makes only for private consumption (not for sale at all) in view of its very tiny production. That is truly a real privilege. A huge merci beaucoup, gentlemen, for going the distance in everything that you do.

2014 Domaine Jean Chartron Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos du Cailleret. Poured from magnum.  Displaying a golden luminosity, this wine opens with an exuberant chalky depth within a waxy sheen, matched by a highly elegant medium palate of subtle tropical fruits that tease with fleeting intensity, exuding regal refinement and clean precision underscored by sublime acidity, finishing with lengthy persistence. Still barely evolved. Excellent.

2014 Domaine Jean Chartron Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Pucelle monopole. Poured from magnum. Equally luminous. The bouquet shows a certain restraint of nutmeg and distant floral hues with a sense of oiliness before catching you off-guard with an explosive bloom of glorious white fruits tempered with sublime acidity, sustained by a glowing intensity of chalky white tones that add cohesive tension to the delicate balance. Very impeccably proportioned with a lasting finish. This is easily Grand Cru by any standard.

2014 Domaine Jean Chartron Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Clos des Chevaliers monopole. Poured from magnum. Surprisingly restrained in site of its lovely luminosity, proffering just a hint of salinity before developing an eventual sharp lift of glorious white fruits with a focused intensity and chalky clarity tinged with capsicum, beautifully rounded with a restrained velvety tension. Very impeccably proportioned, stretching out with a placid regal elegance as it fleshed out with lively acidity. Outstanding.

2006 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts. Poured from magnum. Deep purplish core with some crimson, effusive in ripe raspberries and mulberries with a dash of mint. Early secondary characters are evident of the full velvety palate, laced with lively acidity amid traces of pochai pills that lend a hint of rusticity, turning brighter over time with restrained vigour. From a miniscule 0.1 ha, this wine is declared only in selected vintages (nine so far); even then, only one barrel is produced. Better still, the Les Petits Monts of Thibault Liger-Bélair is NOT FOR SALE, only for the family’s own consumption.

2009 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts. Poured from magnum. Deep purple with a crimson rim. The bouquet here is fresher, a little more exuberant in ripe raspberries and dark currants with a spicy dash. The medium-full palate is sharper as well, superbly delineated with focused precision and definition. Absolutely delicious. Irresistible!

2005 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg Grand Cru. Deep crimson. Open with a lovely expanse of dark fruits and currants, delivering tremendous depth and abundance on the big vibrant palate, structured with rounded dryish tannins that oozed a bit of sweetness. Highly integral but still tight and unyielding. Vinified using whole bunches since that year.

2010 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg Grand Cru. Evolved pinot tint. Compared with the 2005, the 2010 is surprisingly lean and understated, much lighter and fleet-footed in its sleek acidity and fine delineation though there is no lack of focus and balance. Highly integral but a little short.