1993 Leroy Savigny-les-Beaune Narbontons, 2008 Liger Belair Vosne-Romanée Suchots, 1999 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet, 2000 Domaine Leroy Clos de Vougeot

A gathering of usual suspects and other generous guests at Chef Chan Private Dining on 05 February 2025, very kindly hosted by Anthony, that kicked off with a decadent yusheng comprising thick slabs of toro and unagi topped with dollops of caviar. The vinous line-up was equally outstanding although I must report that this is the second example of Ramonet’s Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos du Caillerets monopole (the other was a 2014 tasted a week apart) that is over-developed for age. You are advised to check the quality of your bottles if you have any of this. Many thanks, gentlemen!!

2015 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Combettes. Pale. Balsamic cool tones on the nose. Fullish with vibrant acidity, boasting good focus and precision, imbued with a certain reductive stoniness to its lingering finish of spicy white pepper.

2015 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos du Caillerets monopole, courtesy of Kieron. Slightly darkish shade of gold. Very Leflaive type of honeyed toast with early autumnal characters on the nose. Its reclusive fruit results in a dryish reluctant palate that is more minerally and acidic, tapering to a glowing finish of ginger bitters. This has developed faster than expected.

1999 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Luminous. Sulphuric nose of damp earth and wet pebbles. Medium-full. Superbly harmonious in its dense minerally detail, seamlessly integrated with the ripe warmth of mature white fruits throughout its excellent length and linearity, underpinned by a trace of salinity. Outstanding.

2001 Bass Philip Au Jardin Les Amis, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep reddish-brownish core, somewhat opaque, though the nose is quite beguiling in its delicious rosy fragrance, matched by superb acidity that is seamlessly integrated with refined tannins. Still impressively dense and fresh, underpinned by a sandy earthiness not unlike a Nuits-Saint-Georges. Specially bottled for Singapore’s three Michelin-starred Les Amis restaurant.

1993 Maison Leroy Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Les Narbontons, courtesy of Sir Bob. Clear ruby, proffering a restrained rosiness. Medium presence and somewhat slender with slick pointed acidity as if all excesses have been trimmed off, leaving a distinct note of saline. Undeniably elegant. Still amazingly fresh and youthful.

2000 Domaine Leroy Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Considerably evolved pinot tint, slightly opaque, but absolutely delightful on the nose where the seductive fragrance of rose petals, haw and complex red fruits work the senses into overdrive. Open with supple succulence, seamlessly layered with ripe fruit and cherries still bright and fresh that boasts superb purity with understated power in spite of its growing stature in the glass, remaining supremely elegant all through to its sweet lingering finish. This is probably the vinous definition of beautiful sex.

2001 Domaine Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er, courtesy of Vic. Purplish. Deep bouquet of dark cherries and raspberries. Still tight, youthful and intense, structured with tensile presence, its tannins oozing a trace of sweetness. Wonderfully fresh, making up for the somewhat attenuated finish.

2014 Domaine Nicholas Rossignol Pommard 1er Chanlins. Purplish crimson. Nose of cotton candy with a hint of reduction. Generously proportioned with dryish tannins that exert terse intensity. Considerably more open after some time, fleshing out with cool focus and inner detail underscored by a dash of salinity.

2006 Domaine François Lamarche La Grand Rue Grand Cru, courtesy of Alvin. Very dark, generously imbued with the concentrated warmth of ripe darkish fruit amid overtones of heated gravel, producing excellent attack of striking acidity with a spicy lift though the finish is a little abrupt and distinctly austere.

2009 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Aaron. Some age is evident from the colour and nose, layered with bright red fruits that impart delicious lift with supple intensity. Highly harmonious within its sheen of silky smooth tensile tannins. Modest finish.

2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Deep pinot tint. Sharp lift of ferrous ore and red fruits. Medium-full. Fairly exuberant but impeccably harmonious with velvety textures, dressed in sweetish silky tannins that impart a bit of taut tension.

2008 Domaine Comte Liger Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots, courtesy of Sean. Evolved crimson. Good lift of darkish fruit, slightly accentuated. Medium presence. Highly harmonious and integral, very seamlessly structured with smooth sweetish tannins that exert terse supple intensity with superb precision and refined power. Impeccably proportioned and balanced, exuding a certain elusiveness. This is beyond reproach. Outstanding.