2005 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet MdL, 1990 Château Mouton Rothschild

The great SC threw a lovely birthday lunch at Hamamoto on 22 March 2022, along with a couple of specially curated bottles that went along very well with the delicate Kyoto-inspired cuisine of chef Kazuhiro Hamamoto. Both whites exude a certain lightness and restraint that paired very well with the food while who would have imagined that a First Growth would be so utterly feminine and mellow? Many thanks, Sir, for a perfect afternoon.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon P2. Light golden, proffering delicate tones of clear citrus and fig on the nose while the medium-full palate exudes a refreshing lightness and clarity, laced with sleek acidity within subtle layers of white fruits and flinty minerals.

2005 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Poured from magnum. This wine opens with a delicate bouquet of white floral fragrance, almost shy, that belies the surprising explosion of fruit on the medium-full palate, imparting exquisite mouthfeel and a lovely biting intensity that teased with subtle detail. Unexpectedly extroverted, eventually settling down with regal elegance and restraint amid a dash of salinity though that wonderful tension and length remain undiminished. Excellent.

1990 Château Mouton Rothschild. Poured from magnum. Unfairly cast over the years as being unworthy of this stellar vintage, this claret has finally come into its own, absolutely resplendent in color and tone with subtle shades of soft red fruits on the nose whilst the medium-bodied palate is utterly smooth, its melted tannins allowing the elegant fruit to glow with lovely purity and poise. Distinctly feminine, gradually developing a rosy intensity with a trace of earthiness. Superbly integral. Doesn’t pack a punch but it doesn’t need to. Excellent.