2020 Bachelet-Monnot Puligny Folatières, 2017 Roulot Meursault, 2000 Château Pavie, 2007 Domaine Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2005 Ramonet Chassagne Clos Saint-Jean, 2013 Arnoux-Lachaux Échezeaux

2011 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clavoillon. Pale golden luminosity, proffering clear citrus and floral bloom with a hint of morning dew on the nose. Utterly delicate and agile, boasting sublime acidity underpinned by fleeting ferrous minerals and balsamic spice though one would be hard-pressed to call it Puligny; more like a lean reductive Meursault. Is it because the fruit has begun to recede? Nevertheless, this wine is beautifully poised and elegant, still wonderfully fresh, finishing with a lasting understated glow. An atypical Clavoillon, for sure; certainly not the style of Anne-Claude Leflaive. The only way to ascertain would be to pop another bottle.

2019 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers, courtesy of LF. Pale luminosity, opening with a mild reduction amid its lovely floral lift. Medium-full. Rounded with refined clarity, laced with a dash of enamel that imparted some racy sweetness before firming up to a steely finish.

2017 Domaine Roulot Meursault, courtesy of Kieron. Pale luminosity. This straight village proffers restrained white tones from its delicate chalkiness, delivering a rounded fullish palate with lean detail and lithe agility that fleshed out with glacial coolness and emerging delicate complexity. Very classy.

2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières, courtesy of Vic. Pale luminosity. Classic Puligny nose, exuding distant floral and minerally notes in equal measure. Very classy on the rounded palate, boasting exquisite intensity from the faultless integration of distilled green fruit, lithe acidity and pronounced minerally base, imparting exciting verve and mouthfeel.

2005 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos Saint-Jean, courtesy of LF. Classic pinot tint. The enticing bouquet here is wonderfully fragrant in its dense rosy hues, leading to a medium-full focused concentration of fresh red fruits tinged with haw and vanillin. Utterly seamless, not drying out at all. A good reminder that Ramonet makes excellent Chassagne reds.

2015 Lucien Le Moine Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Displaying an opaque pinot tint that hinted at some age, this medium-bodied proposition is imbued with good concentration of velvety fruit shorn of excesses, imparting distilled notes of rose petals supported by a certain earthiness. A convincing effort from this négociant.

2013 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Very deep tint of pinot. Big and structured, infinitely masculine with a certain rustic minerally detail, cushioned by a rounded velvetiness bordering on gruffness. Snapped together with better focus after some time though its darkish demeanour remained rather unyielding.

2007 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. Classic pinot tint. Delicately poised with a certain restraint of haw and rose petals. The fleshy medium-full palate features decent depth of fruit imbued with a distinct salinity, perfectly integral with lithe elegant tannins and fresh acidity. Not showy at all. Drinking the vintage, probably at its best.

2000 Château Pavie, courtesy of Sir Bob. Decanted on-site. Deep purple, proffering exuberant swathes of delicious black fruits amid the hallowed glow of a maturing claret. Expectedly masculine but well-proportioned, cushioned by pliant chewy tannins that produced a degree of lushness within its fleshy seamless layers, the enamel from new oak still discernible with a tint of cigar box. Still far from peak maturity.