2008 Pierre Peters Cuvée Les Chétillons, 2020 Fontaine Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet, 2014 Faiveley Clos de Bèze Ouvrées Rodin, 2013 Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny Fuees, 1995 Comte de Vogüé Les Amoureuses

A mostly Chambolle line-up over dinner at Sonder on 28 April 2026, very kindly hosted by Anthony Oei. Chef Handika’s brand of fusion cuisine incorporating many elements of Indonesian cooking has won him a large following but, sadly, he would be returning to Jakarta after that same evening. The wines were all singing although I would have preferred pairing them with a non-spicy menu. Many thanks, gentlemen, for your kind generosity!

2008 Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of LF. Dull golden, opening with yeasty overtones and keen zesty clear citrus that led to an exuberant dryish intensity underscored by a modest depth of cool ripe fruit. Still primal. The 2008s really do need plenty of bottle time.

2018 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Referts. Pale golden. Rather cool and distant in spite of the abundance of orchard fruit, imparting a restrained intensity underpinned by a subdued earthiness amid floral hues that conveyed a lovely rounded elegance. Went on to develop a more focused presence after some time.

2020 Domaine Fontaine Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Dull golden. Alluring nose of nutmeg, grapefruit and gentle citrus amid morning dew and distant orchard fruit. Rounded with restrained acidity and intensity, the initial traces of austere minerals giving way to greenish mandarins. Moderate length. Very elegant though yet to develop true complexity.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Les Ouvrées Rodin. Good colour. Red fruits, cherries and haw dominate. Surprisingly full and rounded with a lovely supple succulence in spite of the modest vintage, underpinned by a distinct salinity. Beautifully balanced, displaying excellent linearity with a trace of varnish against dryish tannins towards its modest finish. Highly feminine.

2023 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny, courtesy of Sir Bob. Bright crimson. Intense flavours of cherries and ripe red fruits dominate with youthful verve and exuberance, yet expertly balanced with smooth refined tannins. Already ready to drink even at such infantile stage. Modest finish.

2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er, courtesy of Vic. Bright crimson, exuding a lovely perfumed fragrance to match the succulent warmth and freshness and lively intensity, just a tad narrow in breadth. Modest length.

2013 Domaine Jacques-Frédèric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuees, courtesy of Anthony. Evolved crimson. This wine opens with a distinct reductive funkiness in spite of the abundant red fruits, though the medium-full palate is wonderfully pure and fresh with layers of lithe density that convey a certain feminine elegance.

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses, courtesy of LF. Deeply coloured. Quite effusive in ripe raspberries, cherries and currants. Still quite full though its tannins are imperceptible at this stage, boasting rounded agility and supple succulence, turning a little assertive over time. Modest finish. May not even have peaked.