Ric's Wine Journal

The Jürade de Saint-Émilon du Singapour kicked off 2024 with a vertical of Château Troplong Mondot at Otto Ristorante on 17 January. Founded in 1745, this Premier Grand Cru Classé B truly came into its own under the stewardship of Christine Valette from 1980 till her last vintage of 2013. Her efforts of 1989 and 1990 are legendary, while memories of a 1988 tasted at Eleven Madison Park are still fresh. Key to Troplong Mondot’s success lies in its terroir, sited on a gentle mound 110 metres above sea-level where there is a substantial deposit of clay covering the usual limestone. This elevation facilitates even drainage during wet months while the clay helps to retain moisture during the hot months, preventing heat stress. The harder clay also forces the roots of the vines to dig deeper, resulting in greater power and complexity to the wine. Quality and sophistication has taken on a new dimension ever since Aymeric de Gironde (moving from Cos D’Estournel) took over as CEO and winemaker in 2017. I wouldn’t be surprised if Troplong Mondot makes the cut to Premier Grand Cru Classé A at the next classification.

Champagne Ruinart Brut NV. Pale. Cool reductive pungency. Structured with chunky detail amid a moderate intensity of pears and white fruits. Drinking well.

2019 Virginie de Valandraud Blanc, courtesy of Kieron. Pale. Soft gentle tones of tropical fruits with a peculiar hint of durians. Rounded with refined clarity, turning a little velvety over time with emerging notes of passion fruit. Distinctly feminine.

2015 Château Troplong Mondot. Very deep purple. Restrained bouquet of very dark inky fruit and currants, perhaps even a little pruny, delivering an appropriately ripe and masculine palate structured with unobtrusive tannins, lighting up with a gentle glowing sweetness as it took on a further note of soy. Very generously proportioned and smoothly delineated. Very well balanced, showing lovely acidity. Just needs time in bottle to come together. Plenty of promise.

2014 Château Troplong Mondot. Very deep garnet. Resolutely shut though the medium-full palate is imbued with cool ripe darkish fruit tinged with a trace of sweetness, underpinned by distinct ferrous elements that confer a generally lean, austere character. Less dense and imposing than the 2015. Ready to drink soon.

2011 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Mel. Deep purple garnet. This wine opens with a cool elegant restraint, matching the ample layers of glorious fruit dressed in silky-smooth sophisticated tannins. Wonderfully vibrant but beautifully balanced, displaying perfect phenolic ripeness. Superb, in spite of the under-rated vintage.

2008 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Sok Cheng. Deep garnet with a bare rim of crimson, proffering a bit of warm ripeness with traces of sweet vanillin. Very sleek medium presence, boasting a focused plush intensity from the rich layers of delicious black fruits and currants dressed in sophisticated velvety tannins, finishing with superb length. Thoroughly superb.

2007 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Jess. Opaque dull purple. Open with a cool velvety ripeness, darkish in tone with overtones of licorice and menthol. Slightly rustic, not helped by a dogged tinge of brett. Probably an isolated bottle problem. Will reserve judgement.

2009 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, courtesy of Bowei. Deep crimson, showing a hint of early evolution with a slightly vegetal nose of rhubarb and wild berries. The medium palate is fairly dense in darkish crushed fruit and vibrant acidity that impart supple intensity with a medicinal trace, adding to its rustic feel. Not quite ready.

I had the distinct privilege of lunching again with Mr Pablo Alvarez at Iggy’s on another of his frequent visits to Singapore on 13 January 2024…

Champagne Laculle Frères Le Petit Point Rouge Brut Nature Rosé NV. Light orangey-red hue, exuding a distant rosy fragrance with fine clarity and intensity of grapefruit. Very well balanced with a smooth rounded easy charm, not too dry. The winemaker married a Singaporean woman. Hence, the name (meaning Little Red Dot) refers to Singapore, the map of which is shown on the label.

2005 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Poured from magnum. Dull golden. Secondary nose of glazed characters, gradually revealing excellent presence of cool citrus tinged with early secondary characters of grapefruit, walnuts and cashews, displaying youthful freshness and deft agility along with measured restraint and elegant intensity. Very subtly layered, developing a sheen of smooth emulsion whilst maintaining its lithe transparency. I must admit not having encountered this producer before but it is superb!

2011 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena 5^o. Deep purple. Highly delicious nose of crushed red fruits, cherries and currants that went fairly deep on the medium-weight palate. Very smoothly delineated with lithe transparency, developing further notes of mocha and cocoa but this wine is all about the nose.

2008 Château La Mission Haut-Brion. Tasted blind along with the 2008 Vega Sicilia Unico below. Very deep in colour, highly alluring in red fruits tinged with capsicum, displaying superb integration with a lovely glowing clarity, structured with cool sophisticated tannins. Very naturally balanced, growing in weight and stature over the next hour with an eminent Graves signature of earthy vegetal tones.

2008 Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva. Tasted blind, but this is obviously an Unico through and through. Opaque deep purple, proffering an enticing bouquet of cherries, raspberries, other red fruits and currants amid overtones of paraffin. There is plenty of depth and intricate detail on the medium-full palate, still not quite entirely resolved but the refined acidity and velvety tannins are already so beautifully integrated with a lush cushioned succulence, imparting plenty of verve. This will turn out to be legendary.

2007 Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva. Deep purple, slightly crimson at the rim. Distant warmth of red fruits and crushed cherries on the nose. The sleek medium palate is very well delineated, imbued with sublime acidity that exert moderate intensity. Highly integral and elegant, finishing with good length. Made from very low yields due to September frost, this wine has entered into an early phase of maturity compared with its youthful exuberance nine years ago, also tasted then in the presence of Pablo Alvarez.

2002 Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva. Poured from magnum. Deep crimson. Exuberant bouquet of fresh red fruits, rose petals and haw. Very sleek and lithe, open with exalted refined intensity, yet distinctly feminine. Still amazingly youthful. Another great Unico in the works.

1962 Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva. Tasted with palpable anticipation. Still showing quite a deep purplish-crimson tint, this septuagenarian proffers a lifted bouquet of capsicum and kumquat with a tinge of earthy pungency, boasting the trademark lithe agility and amazing freshness. Absolutely integral, the fruit and acidity still very lively without any sign of fatigue or dryness though it did fade just a little after about ninety minutes. Memories of the 1968, 1967 and 1942 came to mind, proving that Unico still trumps most clarets when it comes to longevity.

Vega Sicilia Especial (blend of 1994, 1995, 2000). Deeply coloured. Full sweet nose of very ripe berries and currants that carried onto the palate with a tinge of banana, almost hedonistic in its tremendous verve and vibrancy from the deep layers of fruit. Superbly fresh and agile, imbued with sublime acidity, structured with unobtrusive tannins. Impeccably balanced, not at all heavy.

Tempos Vega Sicilia Oremus Tokaji Aszú Puttonyos 6^o. Fairly dark. Delicate tones of nectarine dominate with deft agility and lightness, boasting a balanced sweetness underscored by superb understated acidity. Not at all weighty nor cloying. A study in effortless grace.

2016 S de Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes. Popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 03 Dec 2023. Luminous gold. Faint icing and vanillin on the nose, met by restrained fruit and cool chalky tones on the medium palate, displaying good precision but short.

2020 Domaine Bruno Colin Saint-Aubin Les Charmois 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 04 Dec 2023. Luminous greenish gold, exuding restrained floral hues tinged with olives. Medium presence of fruit, structured with slick acidity and tonal clarity that exude excellent freshness amid a delicate chalky glow, developing a bit of understated austerity over time.

2020 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 04 Dec 2023. Deep crimson. Restrained fragrance of dark cherries and strawberries, though there is ample presence of fruit at just the right level of extraction. Very smooth and evenly rounded, boasting very refined acidity with a hint of earthiness. Unpretentious. Drinking well.

2022 Preface, courtesy of the winemaker himself Karl Todeschini at Kolabo, Singapore, 07 Dec 2023. White merlot by Château Mangot. Forward note of longans. Medium-full, displaying cool lean definition with dryish crisp acidity. Good balance. Fleshed out with austere intensity. Unwooded, vinified in concrete tanks.

2019 Château La Brande, courtesy of the winemaker himself Karl Todeschini at Kolabo, Singapore, 07 Dec 2023. From a 34-ha plot of red clay soils, comprising 75% merlot. This wine opens with a measured glow of ample red fruits, boasting excellent precision, verve and controlled intensity within a soft sheen of svelte tannins. Great balance.

2020 Château Mangot, courtesy of the winemaker himself Karl Todeschini at Kolabo, Singapore, 07 Dec 2023. Impenetrable deep purple, exuding a gentle warmth of mocha, black cherries and dark currants. Structured with supple tannins, boasting refined balance and transparency. Not imposing at all. Already approachable. Highly successful.

2019 Château Mangot, courtesy of the winemaker himself Karl Todeschini at Kolabo, Singapore, 07 Dec 2023. Deep crimson. Aromatic, ripe and masculine with an assertive quality, exerting sharp attack and rasping intensity but still finely balanced. Settled down with some transparency though the fruit is a little uneven.

2016 Todeschini Distique 9, courtesy of the winemaker himself Karl Todeschini at Kolabo, Singapore, 07 Dec 2023. Deep garnet. Restrained glow of chocolate and other darkish characters. Richly textured with tight intensity of fruit, shot through with a ferrous austerity that conjured a tone of brilliant graphite. Well balanced. Comprises 40% cabernet franc, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot from six selected plots that vary year from year. Inaugural vintage in 2008. Only 10000 bottles produced, released after three years in bottle.

2021 Sandhi Central Coast Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 08 Dec 2023. Pale greenish. Cool clean lift of delicate floral elements, citrus and lime. Highly cohesive, boasting excellent density of fruit with crisp acidity that impart tremendous verve. Glowing finish, oozing with sweet intensity before turning a little reductive and austere over time.

2014 Tahbilk Marsanne The 1927 Vines, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 08 Dec 2023. Deep yellowish golden. Powerful nose of diesel, petroleum fumes and varnish. Only medium weight, the fruit appearing somewhat reluctant though there is a considerable presence of cool glacial tones and recessed chalkiness laced with sleek acidity and dryish textures that exert modest intensity and finish.

2010 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er. Popped and poured at Sol & Luna, 10 Dec 2023. Brownish crimson. Evolved bouquet of dark plums, rhubarb and mulberries with a sense of warm ripeness. Fleshed out with greater minerally presence and that classic NSG earthiness, gaining understated supple intensity with cushioned tannins that exert subtle but lively acidity. More rounded, lush and weighty over time, gaining a predominance and purity of red cherries. Not far from peak maturity.

2018 Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis Vau Ligneau 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 11 Dec 2023. Very pale opaque greenish, proffering a delicate lift of distant chalk and floral greens, showing good presence of fruit with slick acidity that impart a moderate teasing intensity underpinned by a gentle austerity of ferrous elements and lemon bitters. Came together very well. Modest finish.

2019 Domaine Pierre Gelin Fixin, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 11 Dec 2023. Darkish tint. Rather restrained medium presence of raspberries and mulberries of moderate depth. A little lush and velvety, quite cohesive with smooth refined tannins that ooze a trace of sweetness along with ferrous elements in equal measure. Drinking very well. A real bargain.

2019 Henschke Keyneton Euphonium, double decanted for ninety minutes ahead of dinner at Asia Grand, 16 Dec 2023. Deep purple. Glossy density of rich Barossa shiraz that exude deep plummy fruit, cherries and mulberries with overtones of licorice. Structured with bold but supple tannins, seamlessly layered with cool ripeness and lively acidity. Very expertly blended and balanced. Confirms my initial impression during a tasting at Henschke’s cellar door last month. Possibly the best of cabernet-shiraz blends.

2021 Ten Minutes By Tractor Estate Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 18 Dec 2023. Pale greenish. Utterly Burgundian lift of complex orchard fruit, floral scents and pomelo with a distant note of nectarine, leading to a fairly high-toned medium-full tensile presence. Well layered with a lovely concentration of lime and white citrus, not overly intense, supported by subtle ferrous elements that impart structured mouthfeel. Modest depth and finish. From Mornington Peninsula.

2018 Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Marsannay Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 18 Dec 2023. Rather deep in colour, proffering a minty glow of fresh cherries and star anise. The medium weight palate is well endowed in darkish fruit bordering on burliness but it feels somewhat compressed, laced with tensile acidity.

2018 Edouard Delaunay Morey-Saint-Denis, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 18 Dec 2023. Deep plummy red fruits and wild berries dominate with a warm ripeness and terse concentration on a backdrop of dryish extraction. Gelled together very well after some time, developing open supple intensity with rounded refined tannins at just the right level of acidity, finishing with moderate length.

2014 “Y” d’Yquem, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Imperial Treasure Great World, 21 Dec 2023. Pale golden. Recessed chalk, créme and brioche on the nose while the palate features an exquisite focused intensity of soft tropical fruit cushioned by velvety vanillin, underpinned by a high-toned acidity that shone with crystalline clarity, promising early complexity.

2017 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Morgeot 1er. Aired for ninety minutes ahead of dinner at Imperial Treasure Great World, 21 Dec 2023. Pale golden. Shut initially with only glimpses of nutmeg strung with high-toned clear citrus and lemon. Gradually developed elegant expressive white tones with a hint of stoniness on the medium palate, imbued with subtle verve and lovely balance, underpinned by just a dash of ferrous elements.

2006 Château Lynch-Bages. Aired in bottle for two hours prior to dinner at Otto Ristorante, 23 Dec 2023. Deep garnet. Rhubarb, violets, blueberries and wild berries dominate with cool ripeness and excellent fullness, a little brightly lit (a characteristic trait of 2006) where the tannins and acidity tend to be somewhat assertive.

2020 Château Brandin. Popped and popped at Yann’s place, 24 Dec 2023. Forward balance of blueberries and black currants, surprisingly fresh and delicious with good presence of fruit without any hollowness, imbued with some minerally elements. Unpretentious.

2016 Laurent Ponsot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de L’Aulne. Aired in bottle for two hours prior to lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 25 Dec 2023. Lovely pinot tint. Distilled essence of red fruits and rose petals on the nose. Rounded and softly contoured with medium weight. Modest but unpretentious on the palate, subtly layered with terse acidity within a frame of refined supple tannins underpinned by ferrous elements.

2019 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc VV. Aired ahead of dinner at Liang Kee, 27 Dec 2023. Some development in colour, though the fullish palate is rather tense with a high-toned acidity from the abundance of lemon bitters, imparting a slightly reductive stance.

2019 Domaine Heitz-Lochardet Saint-Aubin Murgers Des Dents de Chien 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 28 Dec 2023. Greenish hue, exuding delicate floral and grassy elements with excellent presence of clear citrus fruit, wonderfully lithe and agile on the medium palate, finishing with a bit of steely resolve.

2017 Xavier Monnot Beaune Les Toussaints 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 28 Dec 2023. Darkish pinot tint. This wine opens with a distinct earthy pungency. The soft medium-weight palate is imbued with refined red fruits with a tinge of dark plums, structured with dryish tannins that yield excellent definition. Good Beaune character; has that hint of gruffness tempered by sublime acidity. Lovely integral glow.

2008 Château Maucamps. Tasted 28 Dec 2023 over dinner at Crab At Bay. Displaying an evolved deep crimson, this cru bourgeois is quite effusive in red plums, mandarins and ripe wild berries on the nose. Fairly well-integrated with lively acidity and good tannin structure, replete with a tinge of gruffness in keeping with its Haut-Médoc origin though it could do with a little more fruit presence, missing the lush succulence that would have placed it amongst the classified growths. But at SGD34 right off the shelf already with fifteen years of bottle age, I’m not complaining.

2018 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc, aired for two hours ahead of lunch at Imperial Treasure Great World, 31 Dec 2023. Clear luminosity. Delicate wafts of floral elements and clear citrus from a medium-weight palate, displaying subtle inner layering with a high-toned acidity that imparted reductive verve and precision. More tightly wound after an hour in the glass, developing intense overtones of lemon bitters and vanillin before settling down with relaxed transparent textures.

The boys from Gleneagles rounded off 2023 with a superb line-up at Imperial Treasure Teochew (ION Orchard) on 14 December. Another evening of great excesses but we polished off everything. Thank you all!

2002 Champagne Corbon Avize Brut, courtesy of CJ. Burnished golden hue, proffering a delicate flinty lift of matchstick smoke. Super dry with youthful intensity in spite of substantial bottle age, its crisp acidity cutting through the subtly austere palate with bright clarity.

2008 Champagne Egly Ouriet Brut Grand Cru, courtesy of CJ. Delicate subtle lift of cool dense glacial tones matched by a full presence of olives, dense citrus and nutmeg that produced a crystalline glow of white tones with exquisite intensity. Shows tremendous breed and sophistication.

Champagne Henri Giraud Ay MV18, courtesy of LF. Luminous gold. Distilled glowing yeasty overtones. Open and highly supple, boasting ample depth of glorious citrus with an engaging sweet intensity, imparting exciting verve.

Champagne Krug Grande Cuvée NV, courtesy of Daryl. This 171st edition appears pale golden, proffering gentle overtones of smoke and yeast with open cool glacial tones from the intense presence of bright citrus, laced with a trace of sweetness.

2012 Champagne Krug Brut, courtesy of MH. Subtle yeasty tones amid a complex of sweet citrus, boasting great refinement with superb clarity and freshness. Wonderfully balanced with understated intensity and elegant sheen, tapering to a finish of gun metal and white incense.

2014 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of CJ. Pale golden, proffering cool icing and vanillin on the nose whilst the medium palate is muted is white tones, touched with a distinct salinity. Highly cohesive and regal, but shy. This may take several more years to turn the corner.

2014 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Displaying pale greenish hues, this wine opens with a highly ethereal restraint in spite of the ample presence of fruit on the medium-full palate, laced with a dash of saline. Very impeccably proportioned. Subtly layered with great cohesion, proffering only occasional glimpses of its potential power and slick intensity. Yet to attain true complexity. Truly one for the ages.

2013 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of John. Dull golden, exuding a faint perfumed fragrance with some secondary development. Very well-balanced and elegant, displaying a recessed chalkiness with faint powdery textures, the fruit beautifully ripe and cool though it isn’t quite as regal as a Bouchard.

1996 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson, evoking dense secondary characters from an ample depth of mature cherries, imparting lovely concentration and supple intensity in spite of its age.

2014 Château de Marsannay Chambertin Grand Cru. Deep crimson, proffering elegant rosy hues on the nose though it is somewhat underwhelming on the medium-weight palate, open with soft tannins, slightly earthy with a tinge of saline, missing in true complexity and layering.

1997 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard, courtesy of LF. Murky opaque brown. The fruit is clearly autumnal, evoking powerful overtones of licorice and medicinal tones amid leathery textures though its acidity is still amazingly fresh, imparting great energy.

2004 Domaine Louis Remy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay. Evolved crimson. Delicious bouquet of ripe red fruits and secondary characters, well replicated on the medium-bodied palate with a sense of rustic warmth and gruffness.

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS. Beautiful deep ruby. Very lovely bouquet of dark roses and red cherries. Medium weight. Subtly layered with refined depth and impeccable balance, still imbued with wonderful freshness and verve, boasting brilliant purity of fruit with sublime acidity. Incredibly good. Still has decades ahead.

In what is now an annual ritual, the great SC closed the year with a long lunch at Omakase@Stevens, albeit a week earlier than usual on 23 December 2023. Chef Shu Kubota has further developed his refined culinary art, now executed with supreme confidence, expertly aided by Chef Kazuki. As usual, the wines were very carefully curated by SC in the same manner as he does for all his bespoke properties where it is all about balance and good taste to accompany the exquisite cuisine, avoiding any vulgar excesses. Many thanks, Sir, and good health to all in 2024.

1998 Champagne Krug Brut. Poured from magnum. Clear golden, proffering a gentle yeastiness on the nose that belies the expansive brilliance of complex citrus and pomelo. Still amazingly fresh and full, laced with a bit of stern minerality amid the refined acidity and intensity. Perfectly balanced, and not too dry.

2019 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Poured from magnum. Pale golden. This wine opens with a gentle buttery nose, oozing cool freshness and refined elegance as it took its time to unfurl subtle layers of ethereal fruit seamlessly integrated with sublime acidity. Perfectly balanced with delicious glowing intensity, stretching out with sensational length as it morphed into a quiet regal essence, a trait consistent with all the great whites of Bouchard.

2007 Château Rayas Réservé. Evolved crimson, exuding a distilled rosy fragrance perfectly matched by gentle layers of mature red fruit and cherries that punch through a highly subtle sheen of ferrous elements with occasional sparkle and understated minty tone. Superbly integrated, seducing the senses with a delicious juicy succulence and supple intensity that marries power with lush velvetiness. Clearly a case where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Tasted from two separate bottles with consistent notes.

2000 Château Margaux. Ex-château, poured from magnum. Deep garnet. Softly contoured and open with highly supple tannins that impart refined intensity. Surprisingly lean in body and definition, given the vintage and large format, though the fruit, acidity and tannins are superbly integrated with outstanding precision, marrying subtle power with elegance. Only just beginning to develop secondary characters. Utterly feminine in its delicious essence. Probably the ideal realisation of a Margaux.

The Singapore chapter of the Jürade de Saint-Émilion held its annual Gala for members at The Four Seasons on 08 November 2023. Each course was accompanied by wines supplied by the Wine Council of Saint-Émilion, unless otherwise stated. Members also paid homage to Pierre Mirande of Château La Rose Côtes Rol, whose untimely demise in June 2023 so soon after the Jürade’s visit had shocked us. Many thanks, Russ, Calvin and Marc, for the brilliant organisation!

2018 Les Cordeliers Grand Vintage Brut. A sparkling white from Saint-Émilion. Green fruits, melons and minerally elements in equal measure, imparting excellent zest with dryish intensity.

2012 1938. From the satellite region of Puisseguin. Deep purple, displaying supple intensity of ripe plummy fruit. Very well-balanced.

2011 Château Trianon. Deep crimson, proffering a reductive earthy pungency softly cushioned by a gentle cool ripeness. Rather understated at first, gaining traction with greater fullness and elegant intensity after some time over a base of subdued minerals.

2015 Château Carteau. Some early evolution in colour. Medium presence, open with relaxed charm. Structured with smooth rounded tannins that enhanced its feminine stance, offering good detail. Highly integral, developing controlled verve and intensity.

2014 Château Jean Faure. Deep purple. Fullish. Sleek mid-palate of recessed red fruits with undertones of rye, yielding fine intensity.

2010 Château Jean Faure. Deep colour. Savoury characters on the nose amid a cool ripeness of fruit. Medium-full, displaying excellent fullness, balance and intensity tinged with a subdued note of varnish. Good sophistication and finish but far from ready.

2015 Clos de la Cure. Early evolution of colour, proffering a lifted note of haw and red fruits. Medium weight. Structured with lean definition, though it carries good verve with fine intensity of cool ripe fruit. Good balance.

2015 Château La Rose Côtes Rol. Opaque dull red that belies the lovely lift of predominant red fruits, boasting sheer density of fruit and characters of soy though there is a vegetal tinge, further accentuated by a general darkish austerity. Still tightly coiled.

2006 Clos Badon Thunevin. Deep brownish red. Medium-full, the fruit fairly well developed with open supple intensity, structured with sweet rounded tannins. Distinctly modern. Good sophistication.

2020 Arômes de Pavie, courtesy of Marc. Strong hint of warm gravel on the nose, met by sleek youthful intensity on the medium-bodied palate, structured with tightly-knit tannins.

2016 Château Les Grandes Murailles, courtesy of Russ. Deep purple. Distinct note of rye on the nose. Generously layered with black fruits that impart sleek dryish textures, structured with firm tannins. Distinctly modern, but quite highly integral. This estate is now extinct, its two hectares of vines having been completely absorbed into Château Clos Fourtet.

2011 Château Valandraud, courtesy of Marc. Deep garnet. Notes of malt and vanillin on the nose matched by well-extracted swathes of ripe dark plummy tones dressed in svelte velvety tannins, still tinged with a discernible note of varnish.

2010 Château Pavie, courtesy of Dennis. Decanted on-site. Impenetrable deep purple. Still very full, almost unctuous, imbued with deep swathes of dark fruits and ripe wild berries that exude overtones of varnish. Unashamedly modern. Plenty of promise here; truly one for the ages.

1998 Château La Gomerie. Opaque purple. Lifted note of soy amid a profusion of alluring secondary characters. Fairly full, structured with slick acidity and silky tannins. Still very fresh and agile, developing further notes of toffee and mocha. Excellent.

A small group at Chef Chan’s private dining on 06 December 2023 without any specific theme to go with the delectable cuisine. All wines were blinded. Many thanks!

2015 Domaine Pierre Yves Colin-Morey Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of LF. Pale. Good lift of delicate floral elements tinged with saline. Fairly full and expressive though slightly reductive with lean definition, the fruit set a little backward with a cool elegant complex of vanillin and recessed chalk, highly harmonious with subtle intensity.

2015 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Luminous golden hue, exuding a distant glow of white floral tones at the open that grew with gradual intensity over time, filling the medium palate with distilled white tones from the subtle depth of glorious fruit. Richly layered with lovely focus and concentrated intensity without overwhelming the senses, maintaining its ethereal poise over the long evening. Outstanding.

2017 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er. Good colour. Red fruits and raspberries dominate with cool ripeness on the nose and medium palate, layered with subtle depth and understated intensity, laced with a modest streak of ferrous minerals. Almost underwhelming, though there is a certain correctness about it even without the fleshy exuberance of an Armand Rousseau.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Les Ouvrées Rodin, courtesy of Vic. Lovely colour. This wine opens with a certain restraint, evolving over time with fleeting reductive tones and earthy pungency. Only medium weight, softly contoured with supple feminine presence though slightly lean, imbued with a bit of reddish warmth that confer some brightness against darkish minerally elements at the base, well balanced with developing intensity though the finish is decidedly modest.

2002 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Superb colour. There is a focused pungency on the nose that I like very much amid all the exuberant rosy fragrance, haw and red fruits. Deeply luxuriant with medium presence, wonderfully layered with glorious fruit, sleek acidity and supple tannins that combine to produce effortless grace and concealed power, seducing the senses with subtle intensity. Superbly balanced and cohesive with a further tinge of saline and earthy elements over time whilst remaining absolutely beguiling on the nose. Simply quite sublime.

2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Evolved red with a crimson rim. Effusive bouquet of haw, red fruits and mulberries, endowed with copious dark berries and currants that produce refined power and depth in equal measure, laced with traces of medicinal powder. Somewhat darkish for Romanée-St-Vivant, even for D.R.C., though its impeccable breed and pedigree is obvious through its seamless velvety verve and great cohesion, eventually developing this estate’s characteristic note of kumquat.

2020 Château Laffitte Carcasset. Double-decanted three hours ahead of dinner at Crab At Bay, 02 Nov 2023. Very deep purple. Restrained nose of dark currants, black cherries and mulberries. Well-crafted with very fine sophistication, boasting refined tannins with ample depth of fruit and youthful intensity, imbued with graphite minerals that added lovely tension. Impeccably balanced without any jarring edges. Great ageing potential. A real steal at SGD45 all-in.

2005 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Aired in bottle for four hours prior, followed by additional decanting at The Astor Grill, St Regis Singapore, 04 Nov 2023. Fairly deep garnet. Raspberries and mulberries dominate with a cool delicious freshness. Well developed with leathery textures and svelte tannins, displaying refined attack and supple intensity with a deep plummy glow of early tertiary development though I find the acidity a little too striking, resulting in some angularity despite all that aeration.

2003 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne, courtesy of Stephen at The Four Seasons, Singapore, 08 Nov 2023. Dull golden. Evolved tones of mature chalk and glacial mint, slightly recessed and creamy. Good balance but short.

2001 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob at The Four Seasons, Singapore, 08 Nov 2023. A little dull in colour, but the nose is beautifully lifted with golden fruit and lychees that confer cool glacial tones amid distant chalk. Very refined and elegant with subtle depth, developing further notes of rye and white fruits. Immaculately proportioned. Superb.

2005 Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap, courtesy of Kieron at The Four Seasons, Singapore, 08 Nov 2023. Deeper tint of gold, exuding attractive diesel tones that contrasted beautifully against the controlled sweetness of apricot and nectarine on the medium palate, boasting slick acidity and fluid detail. Highly elegant.

2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling, courtesy of Hak Mien at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Pale. Fair dense bouquet of petroleum fumes. Very good presence of complex lime, citrus fruit and peaches, showing excellent lift and acidity with a controlled sweetness.

Champagne Roger Coulon Heri-Hodie 1er Extra Brut NV, courtesy of Clarissa at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Light golden. Lovely sharp lift of flint, gun smoke and pomelo matched by a full supple presence of dense citrus with sweetish undertones supported by a subdued minerally base. Drinking well.

2012 Horst Sauer Escherndorfer Am Lumpen Silvaner Grosses Gewachs, courtesy of Yuh Shan at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Dull golden. Warm flinty lift of lemon and dense citrus amid overtones of heated gravel, saturating the palate with intense presence of fruit and austere ferrous elements.

2014 Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année, courtesy of Vivien at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Dull golden. Subdued reductive characters with alluring deeper tones, displaying excellent balance with sharp definition and fine precision. Lovely refinement.

1995 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires Brut, courtesy of Lincoln at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Superb reductive pungency, exuding an elusive alluring complexity. Medium depth, slightly darkish. Highly integral with a refined understated acidity, boasting elegant lift and intensity.

2012 Château Bourgneuf at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Deep garnet. Love lift of plummy red fruits and dark currants. Softly contoured with supple tannins tinged with a dash of varnish. Good clarity. Excellent merlot character.

2010 Château Beychevelle, at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Medium-full. Warm darkish intensity of supple black fruits underscored with sweet sandalwood within an understated tannin structure. Good Saint-Julien character.

2017 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Yuh Shan at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Deep garnet. Very deep dark intensity of ripe black fruits and currants amid undertones of smouldering ember. Generously proportioned with masculine tannins. Not ready.

2017 Château Rauzan-Segla, courtesy of Thomas at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Open with supple tannins, generously endowed with ripe wild berries and currants. Good balance though there is a certain attenuation in depth, resulting in a bit of glassiness.

2014 Silver Oak Alexander Valley, courtesy of LF at MH’s party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Poured from magnum. Very deep purple, exuding overtones of malt, menthol and rye with a restrained cool ripeness. Very even presence of fruit dressed in silky smooth tannins though only moderate in depth.

2014 Otazu Bond, courtesy of MH at his party, Orchard Residences, 12 Nov 2023. Poured from magnum. Deep garnet. This personal wine of ours has definitely turned the corner, proffering warm gravel cushioned by a velvety fullness while early secondary characters dominate on the open palate, structured with delicate tannins that lend lean definition and fine inner clarity amid a gentle splash of licorice.

2017 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale Blanc 1er monopole, courtesy of Alvin at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Sheen of cool icing amid peaches, fig and pines. Fairly full, displaying excellent presence and depth with clean textures and sharp acidity.

2017 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale Rouge 1er monopole, courtesy of Alvin at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Looks more evolved in colour than it actually is. Gentle feminine lift of red fruits, lightly perfumed. Medium weight. Highly integral and seamless without the usual sandy trait of NSG. Short finish.

2008 Champagne Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of Alvin at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Pale. Cool glacial tones with an inviting minerally depth, providing great contrast against the brazen dry intensity of clear citrus and bitter pomelo. Almost Krug-like.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sir Bob at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Pale golden. Open with supple intensity of light melons and gentle citrus that impart moderate depth. Highly integral. Still remarkably youthful and lively.

2016 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes 1er Clos de la Truffière, courtesy of Raymond at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Good colour. Distinct overtones dried orange peel on the nose whilst distant white tones dominate on the medium palate with refined intensity and clarity, turning a little more minerally over time.

2018 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Pale golden. Restrained fruit. Inviting cool glacial depth. Slightly reductive on the medium-full palate, displaying clean lean definition with subtle inner detail and intensity. Good refinement but still tight.

2016 Weingut Rings Kallstadter Steinacker Spätburgunder, courtesy of Alvin at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Tasted blind. This wine exuded a highly refined glow of glorious red fruits and plums, already hinting at some early complexity. Softly contoured with superb suppleness, impeccably balanced with just the right degree of acidity and tannin structure. Has poise and pedigree. We all thought it was a burgundy grand cru.

2010 Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue Grand Cru, courtesy of Alvin at Jade Palace, 17 Nov 2023. Crimson tint. Deep intoxicating bouquet of alluring ripe cherries, currants and haw. The high-toned mid-palate is quite richly endowed with refined fruit that impart very fine definition and supple intensity, structured with tannins not yet fully resolved. Surprisingly short.

2006 Champagne Leopoldine, courtesy of CHS at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Dull golden. Slightly burnished tone of brioche and honeysuckle, displaying excellent fullness and refreshing intensity of clear and yellow citrus. Decent weight, developing some glazed secondary characters.

2012 Champagne Boërl & Kroff, courtesy of CJ at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Pale. Reductive pungency with dense flinty overtones. Full palate of complex of ripe tropical fruits and intense citrus, utterly delicious, underscored by high-toned acidity with moderate yeasty undertones, settling down eventually with a cool placid expanse.

2015 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault Les Genevrières 1er at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023 Pale golden hue, evoking delicate grassy elements and nutmeg with distant cool tones. Medium-full, displaying slick oily density and acidity, showing excellent clarity and cohesion. Perhaps just a little more expressive on the nose whereas the mid-palate took on a bit of shiny glare after some time, laced with traces of vanillin and saline.

2005 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Pale. Surprisingly muted on the nose though the medium palate offers fine clarity and definition of fruit, more reductive than plump, exuding a glacial coolness with dryish intensity and further notes of malt. This is the inaugural vintage of Montille’s Corton-Charlemagne, where a magnum tasted over lunch at the domaine in 2017 was truly memorable.

2019 “Y” d’Yquem, courtesy of Chee Fong at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Pale. Faint notes of banana and brioche on the nose. Far more expressive on the palate where mangoes, preserved pineapples and a distinct note of durians dominate with an exquisite slick fullness, capped with mint and green capsicum amid a dash of oiliness, developing a glowing glacial coolness towards its finish. Superb.

2012 Marcassin Sonoma Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Darkish colour and tone, consistent with the heavier bouquet of glycerin and menthol. Medium weight. Supple with velvety tannins and ripe plummy tones, oozing a trace of sweetness. Good balance. Minty finish.

2012 Kosta Browne Koplen Vineyard, courtesy of LF at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Darkish colour. Well extracted, imbued with dark plummy fruit tinged with a hint of burnt and ember, boasting supple intensity with a menthol lift at its finish. Still rather tight.

2012 Domaine Bertagna Corton Grand Cru Les Grandes Lolieres, courtesy of Jimmy at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Deep purplish. Full but darkish characters dominate, though the palate exudes a certain brightness from the intense supple tannins. A little short as well.

2010 Domaine de L’Arlot Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er, courtesy of Vic at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Evolved crimson. Superb bouquet of red fruits and cherries that carry well onto the medium palate. Wonderfully fresh and delicious, structured with pliant tannins that offer great clarity.

2010 Château Coutet, courtesy of Sanjay at Jade Palace, 20 Nov 2023. Surprisingly darkish in colour. Lifted burnished tone of nectarine, apricot and aged honey. Excellent cohesion. Still amazingly fresh with youthful intensity, supported by a slight minerally base.

Champagne Piper Heidsieck Essentiale Extra Brut NV at Changi Airport T3 Silver Kris Lounge, 21 Nov 2023. Light golden hue. Fullish dry intensity of lemons and clear citrus that cut through with crisp clarity, producing a bit of ferrous glare. Distinctly reductive.

2021 Domaine Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuissé, on board SQ279 Business Class SIN-ADL, 21 Nov 2023. White floral notes dominate amid overtones of nutmeg and earthy diesel. Medium weight. Slightly lean and terse but imbued with lovely freshness and clean textures. Reductive finish.

2016 Château Clos du Moulin, on board SQ279 Business Class SIN-ADL, 21 Nov 2023. Earthy. Medium weight. Softly contoured with cool ripe fruit that is slightly darkish with charred elements, proffering good detail. Highly serviceable.

These are some wines tasted during a 2,000 km road trip in November 2023 covering the Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Coonawarra, going as far as Apollo Bay and Ballarat. I know certain folks would scoff at Australian wines but plenty of superb stuff can be found at friendly prices. Wirra Wirra is an absolute gem in McLaren Vale, while Henschke (their riesling from high-altitude Eden Valley is outstanding) and Rockford remain my favourites for Barossa.

2022 Pikes “Traditionale” Riesling, on board SQ278/279 between SIN-ADL–SIN, 22 Nov and 02 Dec 2023. Dominant lift of kerosene and petroleum fumes. Open with lovely fullness and rustic suppleness, abundant in brawny fruit with overtones of nutmeg. The second bottle was distinctly better in balance and subtlety.

2021 Stoney Rise Gruner Veltiner, by the glass at Salopian Inn, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Pale golden. forward bouquet of fresh morning dew with a clean floral lift. Medium-full, exuding a very elegant presence of orchard fruit with a dash of bitter lemon within a lush velvety smoothness.

2015 Albright Longline Grenache, by the glass at Salopian Inn, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Impenetrable red. Mild nose of understated licorice, undergrowth and earth. Fullish presence, exerting a controlled subtle intensity with a minty glow that culminated in a peppery spicy finish.

2021 Chapel Hill Shiraz, by the glass at Salopian Inn, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Impenetrable red, proffering a hint of vanillin sweetness with a restrained warmth though the open palate is saturated with ample swathes of ripe shiraz, structured with supple intensity and just right level of acidity, developing a sheen of creamy mocha. Very well balanced.

2022 Wirra Wirra The Lost Watch, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Very pale. This riesling exudes distant diesel fumes on the nose matched by a dry reductive fullish presence, laced with crisp acidity amid overtones of nutmeg, displaying clean precision.

2021 Wirra Wirra Church Block, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Medium weight. Highly supple with overtones of wet gravel displaying excellent ripeness of shiraz fruit that exert teasing intensity. Judiciously oaked. Very subtly nuanced with an even warmth, laced with just a trace of vegetal elements.

2022 Wirra Wirra The Absconder, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. This is a single vineyard 100% grenache from really old centurion vines, put through the traditional basket press followed by ageing in large French barriques for 10 months without any new oak. Highly alluring nose of delicious red fruits and currants, leading to an attractive oily density on the medium-weight palate, showing excellent integration between the slick acidity and refined tannins. Superbly balanced with fine purity without any of that herbaceous gruffness usually associated with grenache. Very lovely.

2020 Wirra Wirra RSW, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Aged in 30% new wood. Beautiful colour, exuding a restrained warm ripeness from a medium-full presence, seamlessly structured with sleek acidity and supple understated tannins. Highly integral. Drinking beautifully.

2014 Wirra Wirra RSW, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. Impenetrable red. Developing well, proffering a complex of licorice, medicinal herbs and cool ripe plummy fruit with controlled restraint on a bed of velvety tannins, oozing traces of sweetness amid early secondary characters.

2020 Wirra Wirra The Angelus, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. This cabernet sauvignon is surprisingly sleek and supple, endowed with a moderate depth of ample red fruits, gently structured with delicate presence and balance. Not at all big. Also known as The Dead Ringer outside of Australia as Château Angélus in Bordeaux had taken offence.

2019 Wirra Wirra The Holy Trinity, tasted at the cellar door, McLaren Vale, 23 Nov 2023. A cabernet-shiraz in equal proportion, this wine opens with a hint of warm gravel leading to fullish palate layered with cool ripeness, structured with well-managed tannins that exert nervous tension and teasing intensity. Good balance.

2022 Hollick Pinot Noir, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Classic pinot tint. Effusive fragrance of rose petals. Medium weight, the fruit restrained almost to the point of caution, allowing a distinct salinity to dominate. Rather straightforward.

2022 Hollick Sauvignon Blanc, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Very pale. Morning dew and grassy elements dominate amid a distinct note of raddish (a.k.a. sweaty armpits). Medium-full. Structured with a tight reductive tone with undertones of nutmeg and earth.

2020 Hollick Coonawarra Shiraz, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Good lift of cool ripe plummy fruit amid overtones of white pepper and licorice. Medium weight. Very well balanced and proportioned, imbued with understated ferrous elements and slick acidity within a coat of sweet rounded tannins. Unexpectedly refined.

2019 Hollick Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Deep garnet. Distinct nose of red capsicum and chili skins. Softly contoured. Subtly layered with fine detail, the fruit almost pruny, structured with sweetish tannins that impart a gentle teasing intensity. Very well balanced with elegant restraint.

2020 Rymill Pioneer Shiraz, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Good colour. Nose of soft red fruits, rose petals and rhubarb. Fleshy with highly supple tannins, imparting lithe intensity. A little spicy at the finish.

2019 Rymill Classic Shiraz, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Rather restrained on the nose though the palate boasts a very refined warm ripeness tinged with sweet vanillin oak that impart fleeting intensity.

2022 Rymill Pioneer Cabernet Sauvignon, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. The nose lacks focus, hinting at wild vegetation though the medium palate is well layered with a fine supple presence of fruit tinged with mocha.

2019 Rymill Classic Cabernet Sauvignon, tasted at the cellar door, Coonawarra, 25 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Medium-full, displaying a rounded tone of Asian spices and dry mushrooms amid lithe tannins, boasting fine detail and intensity.

2022 Michael Hall Adelaide Hills Piccadilly Pinot Noir, from the list of The Barn Steakhouse, Mount Gambier, 25 Nov 2023. Slightly darkish for pinot, exuding a faint rosy glow that belies the concentrated density of darkish fruit sitting on sleek acidity within sweet supple tannins. Very finely proportioned. Settled down with even balance and considerable charm, developing a refined tensile presence.

2021 Gibson My Darling Merlot, from the list of 1918 restaurant, Tanunda, Barossa Valley, 28 Nov 2023. Very deep crimson. Amply endowed with dark plummy fruit and delicious ripe berries. Weighty and intense, layered with sleek acidity. Fleshed out with more body and subtle ferrous elements within rounded supple tannins. but it’s still too tight.

2023 Henschke Peggy’s Hill Riesling, tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. Very pale. Effusive fragrance of orchard fruit and frangipani. Eminently tropical on the medium-weight palate with a full presence where the sleek acidity imparts refreshing zest, finishing with fine linearity. Drinking beautifully.

2008 Henschke Julius Riesling, tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. This wine impressed with its power and complexity, distinctly reductive on the nose where diesel and preserved fruit dominate amid nutmeg and olives. The medium-full palate is most appropriately dry, boasting an even presence of fruit still fresh and lively, imparting elegant tension and superb balance. Finished well. From a single vineyard planted by Cyril Henschke in 1968. Outstanding.

2021 Henschke Lenswood Pinot Noir, tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. Classic pinot tint. Feminine bouquet of black cherries and floral fragrance. Medium presence, subtly layered with excellent pinot character infused with lovely verve and salinity throughout. Highly integral. Beautiful.

2019 Henschke Keyneton Euphonium, tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. Deep purple. Ample depth of raspberries and mulberries that impart a plush velvety warmth with refined acidity and unobtrusive tannins. Very expertly blended with exemplary balance and integration, finishing with excellent linearity. This cabernet-shiraz is several notches above its previous incarnations, and far better than many other rival efforts.

2022 Saltram Pepperjack Chardonnay, by the glass over lunch at Salter’s Kitchen, 29 Nov 2023. Pale greenish hue. Distant notes of green melons, pears and orchard fruit though the fruit is more forward on the medium-full palate, matched by ferrous elements in equal measure with a dash of sweetness. However, it turned more reductive over time, the fruit distinctly more backward.

2020 Rockford Rod & Spur, tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. Sporting a rusty red, this cabernet-shiraz is imbued with ample plummy red fruit and dark currants, quite appropriately rustic in character in its muscular verve, crisp acidity and warm ripeness.

2020 Rockford Rifle Range Cabernet Sauvignon, tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. Dense crimson, opening with a sense of heated warmth though there is a certain restraint in spite of its excellent density of fruit, dressed in velvety tannins.

Rockford Black Shiraz (2023 disgorgement), tasted at the cellar door, Barossa Valley, 29 Nov 2023. The usual elements of Basket Press shiraz, blueberries and red currants are there, perhaps just a tad less weighty but still eminently fresh and inviting with a cool ripeness. Highly supple and engaging, replete with a dash of liqueur from the addition of a splash of Rockford’s own Vintage Port.

2022 Rockford Hand-picked Riesling, by the glass at fermentAsian, Tanunda, 29 Nov 2023. Pale greenish. Focused intensity of bitter lemon and clear citrus against a backdrop of restrained morning dew, controlled petroleum character and subdued minerals. Great balance and proportion. Finished well.

2020 Greenock Creek Shiraz, by the glass at fermentAsian, Tanunda, 29 Nov 2023. Impenetrable deep garnet. Surprisingly restrained, proffering only faint whiffs of enamel even though the medium-full palate is amply stuffed, structured with slightly assertive tannins that impart focused attack and intensity. Short finish.

Domaine Wines, Singapore, held a promotion where the wines of Domaine Armand Rousseau would be offered at Jade Palace restaurant for dine-in only at minimal mark-up to discourage speculative pricing. Needless to say, the entire consignment of seventy-two bottles was snapped up, including Chambertin Grand Cru (which is still beyond our reach). Many thanks, Dr Chan, for your kind generosity.

2017 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er, tasted 17 Nov 2023. Classic pinot tint. More forward and immediate in red fruits and darkish characters compared with the Clos Saint-Jacques, structured with supple tannins and refined acidity that impart tensile presence and fleeting verve, tinged with a bit of sweetness.

2019 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of CHS, 20 Nov 2023. Deep ruby red. Forward nose of dense red fruits amid a sense of warm gravel matched by an exuberant palate of ample red fruits that impart velvety fullness with a tinge of brilliant graphite, dressed in understated tannins. Exudes obvious breed and pedigree. Excellent.

2017 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, tasted 17 Nov 2023. Classic pinot tint, proffering a lovely bouquet of evolving red fruits, cherries and rose petals. Rather demure at first, developing an increasing presence of baked apples and dark plums as the medium-full palate began fleshing out with refined svelte intensity supported by a mild minerally austerity amid splashes of red capsicum. Highly integral in its layered fruit, acidity and tannins, exuding real breed and sophistication though its finish is somewhat modest. Another bottle from a different batch, courtesy of CHS, tasted on 20 Nov 2023 was equally mellow and soft, displaying feminine traits with subtle verve within a frame of pliant supple tannins, seamlessly integrated with open intensity though its finish is similarly restrained.

2019 Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS, 20 Nov 2023. This monopole boasts a wonderful lift of red fruits and haw amid overtones of warm gravel, just a little more forward in fruit that imparted excellent verve and fleeting intensity. Superbly balanced within a frame of sweet svelte tannins, displaying impeccable breed and sophistication.

2019 Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS, 20 Nov 2023. Deep purple. There is a distinct note of enamel here within the ample swathe of glorious ripe fruit, again a little more forwardly balanced though the balance and immaculate cohesion are evident, adding immeasurably to the superb linearity underpinning its entire length.

2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of Alvin, 17 Nov 2023. Beautiful pinot tint, exuding a superb lift of glorious red fruits amid overtones of warm gravel. Very generously endowed but never imposing, for such was its immaculate proportions, structured with pliant supple tannins that proffer superb detail.