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1993 Leroy Vosne-Romanée Beaux Monts, 2000 Armand Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin, 2006 Hudelot-Nöellat Romanée-St-Vivant, 2012 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Chevalières

January 18, 2021

Sir Bob got us off to a generous start this New Year on 12 January 2021 at Imperial Treasure Great World with a pair of Domaine Leroy, now outrageously expensive but nobody is complaining when there is so much begging to be drunk. This dinner also marked the new formula of 2n for the number of bottles to be drunk at any of our events (where n = number of persons), replacing the previous n+1 🙂

2017 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc. Aired in bottle for two hours prior. Brilliant clarity, evoking characters of cool icing and vanillin with an expanse of chromatic white tones. Shows good concentration of clear citrus, displaying fine layering, inner detail and agility aided by fresh acidity that imparted good structure, precision and intensity. This is not even the estate’s La Mission 1er monopole. Great value.

2002 Champagne William Deutz Brut, courtesy of LF. Deep bouquet of burnt oak, toast and roasted cashews with yeasty undertones, displaying fine complexity. Excellent clarity and freshness, marked by fine presence of citrus and minerally tones that conferred a bit of gunmetal flint, turning slightly stern as it finished with dry intensity. Excellent.

2017 Domaine du Château de Meursault Meursault Charmes Dessus 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Straw-coloured. Effusive notes of vanillin and frangipani cloaked within an attractive sheen of paraffin, exuding sweet gentle fragrance with a sense of oiliness on the mid-palate, showing good clarity with very fine acidity and verve. Excellent but pricey nowadays.

1999 Domaine Robert Ampeau Auxey-Duresses Les Écusseaux 1er. Aired in bottle for three hours prior. Displaying a lovely crimson hue, this wine is imbued with excellent depth of red fruits, dark currants and distinct earthy elements amid secondary nuances of tangerines, wonderfully fresh and agile with sublime acidity, subtly structured with fine precision, finishing with good length. Superb value.

1993 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep ruby. Cherries, red fruits and haw dominate with subtle intensity, amply layered, imbued with fairly intense acidity. Wonderfully supple and fleshy, slightly forward in fruit balance but all the better in the face of such amazing freshness, just a tad short. Excellent.

1993 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Highly inviting on the nose, its crimson depth evoking a lovely deep rounded fragrance that led to a great open suppleness, imbued with abundant fruit that is still remarkably fresh, traversing the palate with superb length and intensity worthy of a grand cru. Quite outstanding.

2000 Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Classic pinot tone, proffering a generous bouquet of glorious red fruits tinged with characters of ash and incense. Highly ample with a lush elegance, seamlessly layered with very fine open density within its rounded fleshiness, laced with great acidity. Carries a certain pedigree and correctness. Caught at its peak. Excellent.

2006 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Decanted at short notice. Penetrating ruby tinged with crimson, proffering a wonderful depth of dark cherries and small ripe berries with a dash of earth, displaying superb suppleness and subtle intensity on the open palate where its balance is quite exemplary, exuding great lift and acidity. Has real sophistication and breed, perhaps even outperforming its own credentials. Outstanding.

2009 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Ripe plummy fruit with a sense of pebbly warmth dominate on the nose, matched by a deeper core of tangerines on the open fullish palate, showing great refinement in its subtle display of early secondary characters and controlled intensity. Still rather youthful. Excellent.

2012 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault Les Chevalières, courtesy of LF. Aired in bottle for two hours prior. Enticing cool vanillin dominate with lovely presence on the nose whilst the medium-bodied palate is saturated with chalky detail and dense complex citrus, exuding great harmony and brilliance with chiseled definition. Truly a world-beating village. Excellent.

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2007 Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane, 1992 Margaux, 2005 Drouhin Montrachet, 2009 Jacques Cacheux La Croix Rameau, 2007 A Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin, 2013 Hundred Acre Kayli Morgan…

January 11, 2021

The great man marked his happy day on 09 January 2021 with a lavish home-cooked dinner amongst a small group, adhering strictly to social distancing regulations. With a specially curated selection of wines from his deep cellar (drunk from Zalto stemware, no less) to complement the great food and wonderful friendship, it was the perfect evening. Thank you and many happy returns, Dr Ngoi!

20210111_112921.jpgChampagne Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Orizeaux Brut NV. Pale. Gently layered with predominant green fruits within a very fine sheen of soft bubbles that exude delicate dry intensity. On the lean side, showing good definition with a subtle minerally shine in the mid-body.

2010 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet Tête du Clos 1er. Stony white tones on the nose amid subtle minerally notes, fleshing out with rounded fullness and intense acidity as more of classic Chassagne characters took hold. Very well balanced but still tight, finishing with lovely persistence.

2005 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru. Decanted from magnum. Pale. Slightly more effusive in whites tones though still rather subdued on the whole with an ethereal poise, imbued with lifted sublime acidity amid traces of earthy minerals. Developed a greater sense of chalkiness with a fuller tone of white fruits after further aeration, beautifully balanced and rounded without revealing much inner detail as its feminine restraint persisted throughout the evening.

2011 M Chapoutier Ermitage De L’Orée. Attractive nose of peppermint gum. Rounded with good concentration of white fruits that imparted some fleeting intensity, just a tad forward. Fleshed out with a lovely sheen of crème de la crème amid cool tones, revealing fine inner detail.

2009 Domaine Jacques Cacheux Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. Slightly darkish in colour though its bouquet is marked by alluring perfumed aromas matched with bright harmonious tones of redcurrants, plums and red fruits on the medium-bodied palate, fairly rich in layering, finishing well. One of only three owners of this 0.6 ha premier cru, Cacheux’s ownership occupies just a mere 0.16 ha.

2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cuvée Christiane. Tasted blind. Displaying a well-evolved crimson, this wine exuded cherries, raspberries and red fruits with a lovely feminine fragrance, superbly balanced with quite a full rounded elegance on the mid-palate, open with early subtle secondary nuances. Very much on song. I’d thought it might be a mature Clos de Tart. Highly consistent with another bottle tasted in November 2020. Excellent.

2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Tasted blind. Good colour. Red fruits and dark cherries dominate on the nose and palate with a deeper core of tangerines, exuding a high-toned acidity with fine gentle intensity. Wonderfully balanced. Distinctly feminine. Excellent.

1992 Château Margaux. Poured from magnum. Still darkly coloured, exuding that classic glow of a mature claret amid overtones of fresh earth and undergrowth. Medium-full and highly supple, imbued with stern ferrous minerals that imparted a slightly gruff demeanour that is further enhanced by its darkish tones.

2013 Hundred Acre Kayli Morgan. Bright purple. Layered with a gorgeous abundance of ripe berries, blackcurrants and violets, forwardly balanced with vibrant tension and ample concentration that conferred a certain rasping intensity though it never tipped into uncontrolled hedonism, smoothly contoured with fleshy suppleness and fine inner detail. Already accessible. Excellent.

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Montrachet: 2011 Drouhin, 1994 Marc Colin 2006 Armand Rousseau Clos Saint-Jacques, 1994 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cab Sauv, 2017 Montille Corton-Charlemagne…

January 8, 2021

The wines for this dinner at Iggy’s on 18 December 2020 were centered around one kilogram (yes, that’s correct!) of fresh white truffles that LF had specially flown in from Alba the night before. Even Iggy himself was astounded. With a customised menu to match the endless flakes of truffle that we shaved ourselves, it was truly another evening to remember. Thanks LF!!!

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1994 Domaine Marc Colin Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely luminosity, exuding an equally lovely expanse of mature chalky white tones. Quite resplendent with a dense minerally presence, showing fine gritty detail with great purity and refinement, laced with a fairly dominant acidity that imparted regal intensity, elegant freshness and clarity. Finished with a cool minty persistence amid austere minerals. Excellent.

2011 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Vic. Lovely luminosity. Very gentle elegant nose of white floral tones and white fruits with other exotic notes. Layered with excellent richness and detail, imbued with a deep vein of fruit and acidity that conferred great purity and exuberance, culminating in some minty intensity at the finish. Very lovely and elegant.

20201218_203127.jpg2017 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Pale. Effusive glow of cool icing and vanillin with expansive white tones on the nose with an additional dash of raw nutmeg on the palate, displaying superb body and concentration, seamlessly layered with great clarity and subtle detail. Developed even greater tonal expanse and linearity after some time, yet remaining highly elegant. This is a wine that speaks to you. De Montille’s Corton-Charlemagne is always very special, on par with Bonneau du Martray. Already drinking very well, but it would be wise to cellar further. A magnum of the awesome 2005 (it’s inaugural vintage) tasted at the domaine is still etched in my mind.

1996 Maison Leroy Bourgogne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Quite deeply coloured with distinctive tones of mature apricot and plums, appropriately weighty with a bright chalky shine amid a dash of sweetness before opening up further with tremendous searing intensity. Excellent.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of CHS. Mesmerising deep ruby, matched by an equally deep concentration of bright red fruits and cherries with distinct ferrous undertones. Medium-full. Beautifully refined in its purity and intensity of fruit, laced with sublime acidity and intensity. Excellent.

1994 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Still very deeply coloured, delivering full concentration of dark plums and red currants with subtle minerals, layered with glorious fruit that conferred sweet undertones. Slightly forward with with a lovely rounded intensity. Still remarkably fresh. Superb.

1994 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Deep impenetrable red, displaying a lovely lift of dark fruits though the palate is discernibly brighter than expected, filled with rich plummy tones that exert full rounded intensity, structured with velvety tannins that lent some degree of austerity at the finish. Still imbued with superb youthful freshness. Still not ready!

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Dec 2020: 2010 Roulot Meursault Luchets, 2014 Château de Marsannay Chambertin, 2012 Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet, 1998 Coriole Mary Kathleen Cab-Merlot, 1998 Ch Lafleur, 2008 Tertre Rotebouef, 1979 Emily Bouley Volnay Santenots 1er, 1988 Krug, 2002 & 2007 Cristal…

December 31, 2020

2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Mes Cinq Terroirs, aired for three hours prior to dinner at Rhubarb, 01 Dec 2020. Much darker than usual for pinot with a dominance of raspberries and mulberries that exude a dark rosy fragrance. Well extracted on the palate, shrouded initially by a thin sheen of paraffin that blew off to reveal gorgeous purity of intense dark cherries underscored by very fine acidity and traces of graphite minerals, yielding greater youthful intensity and acidity with time. Quite delicious but far from ready.

1988 Champagne Krug Collection, courtesy of Messrs Yu. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Light dull golden. Distinctly mature on the nose with a dominant lift of poached pear and peach reduction. The medium-bodied palate is imbued with Krug’s signature dry intensity of white citrus and brightly-lit minerals, eventually mellowing to reveal a greater expanse of mature chalk, boasting great balance, clarity and precision. Still remarkably fresh. Excellent.

2010 Domaine Roulot Meursault Luchets, courtesy of Messrs Yu. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Light golden. Shy at first, proffering just faint glimpses of cool icing before opening up with lovely clarity and balance, highly understated in its gentle presence of apricot and clear citrus that imparted lithe agility. Seamlessly integrated. Very refined and elegant. Excellent.

2017 Domaine Francois Mikulski Meursault Poruzots 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Pale. Effusive bouquet of smoky incense tinged with an exotic fragrance. Well layered, snapping into focus after ninety minutes with fine balance and relaxed inner detail, finishing with cool lingering flavours. Very fine.

2014 Château de Marsannay Chambertin Grand Cru. Aired for three hours prior at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Rosy fragrance of soft red fruits, displaying lovely colour and purity. Rather full and rounded. Good concentration of fruit, tight at first with very fine acidity and intensity on a bed of saline minerals before evolving into an open seamless whole, exuding plummy red fruits that exert power and depth as it tapered to a glowing finish. Almost has that extra dimension of the best Chambertin.

2013 Domaine Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny Les Cabottes, courtesy of Tim. Tasted after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Distinctly darkish in colour and palatal tone from a higher extraction of dark fruits. Quite full and fleshy, beautifully integrated and rounded with good sophistication, finishing well amid traces of capsicum.

1998 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Tim. Tasted after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Deep crimson, exuding a classic glow of dark fruits, dried mushrooms, green capsicum and steamed bamboo leaves. Softly rounded and highly supple, displaying fine presence of mature fruit that is still wonderfully fresh along with complex subtle nuances infused with understated acidity. A confident, classy Lafleur that doesn’t call attention to itself. Superb.

2017 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc. Popped and poured at Putien Kitchener Rd, 07 Dec 2020. Pale golden, displaying a light delicate clarity on the nose with fine presence on the palate, imbued with a crystalline quality on a subtle chalky base. Appreciably mellower than a previous bottle six months earlier. Quite lovely without trying too hard.

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2007 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of Vic at Kappo Shansui, 16 December 2020. Luminous gold. Forward bouquet of lovely floral aromas that exude enticing sweetness. Quite vivacious, displaying dry density with open detail and lively acidity, finishing with distinct ferrous tones. Excellent.

2008 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Hock Foong at Kappo Shansui, 16 December 2020. Its pallor belies a lovely bouquet of light tropical fruits amid traces of incense and floral aromas while the palate is imbued with excellent presence of high-toned white citrus that exude a certain delicate lightness complemented by very fine acidity, displaying some early complexity as it gained weight in the glass, finishing with ferrous minerals. Far from ready but irresistible.

2006 Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut, courtesy of Sanjay at Kappo Shansui, 16 December 2020. Restrained reductive nose. Still fairly tight with a lovely rounded intensity. Very finely balanced, a tad more minerally over time whilst maintain good clarity of white fruits and clear citrus. Lingers on the palate with great persistence. Excellent.

2018 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 20 Dec 2020. Very refined white floral tones dominate with lithe agility and lovely delicate balance, displaying good clarity with subtle nuances of vanillin and icing, gaining a bit of sharp acidity over time. A real steal at SGD34.

2007 Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé, courtesy of CJ at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Lovely lift of light cherries and rose petals with some gentle yeasty reductive tones. Open textures on the palate, characterised by very fine bubbles lit with a bright minerally shine, displaying fine intensity of dry tangerines at the finish. Excellent.

Champagne Ruinart Rosé NV, courtesy of Hock Foong at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Effusive delicate nose of light rosy characters and grapefruit. Rounded with youthful intensity, displaying excellent freshness and crisp acidity. Fairly tight but accessible.

1993 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Effusive bouquet of reductive yeasty tones amidst a polished chalky expanse, displaying excellent fullness with mature secondary nuances and distinct ferrous minerals. Very finely balanced with lovely intensity and acidity, attaining a distilled clarity after some time. Very impressive. Still has decades ahead.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Dull golden. Lovely bouquet of honeysuckle, frangipani and mature tropical fruit tinged with paraffin. Medium-bodied, displaying superb seamless integration within a well-defined body laced with very fine acidity. Developed more of vanillin and intense white tones over time. Youthful but irresistible.

20201222_191101.jpg1998 Coriole Mary Kathleen Reserve Cabernet Merlot at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Deep dark garnet red. Rich ripe black plummy fruit with understated licorice on the nose and palate. Subtly structured with good density and robust sophistication, fleshing out with sweet rounded tannins. Excellent.

1979 Emily Bouley Volnay Les Santenots 1er, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Poured from magnum. Fully evolved pinot tone, evoking a lovely feminine floral fragrance of light red fruits with great purity and superb lift on the medium-full palate, still imbued with sweet intensity of fruit and subdued minerals that exude understated complexity.

2009 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Lovely hint of warm pebbles and floral tones on the nose. Rounded, fleshy and seamless whole, imbued with lovely proportions and sleek acidity, displaying excellent purity of fruit with quiet intensity. Just a tad rustic. Drinking well.

2006 Weingüt Markus Molitor House Klosterberg Beerenauslese, courtesy of CHS at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Luminous gold. Medium-bodied, imbued with profound depth of diesel characters and tropical fruits. Almost luscious, though its sweetness is always understated sweetness. Excellent.

2014 Château Rieussec, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Effusive in vanillin and frangipani that imparted a whitish sheen, underscored by a prominence of diesel petroleum, exerting a deep understated intensity. Highly attractive.

2005 Château Sociando-Mallet. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 24 Dec 2020. Deep purple, proffering lifted floral fragrances amid deep dark plummy tones and currants. Medium-bodied. Fairly supple, imbued with distinct ferrous elements amid gentle intensity of fruit. Drinking well.

Champagne Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru (disgorged May 2017), popped and poured at Asia Grand, 25 Dec 2020. Deep bouquet of dense citrus and yeasty overtones amid oily textures and chalky undertones. Medium-bodied. Excellent concentration and agility with very fine understated bubbles, seamlessly structured with lovely subtle nuances, light on its feet with refined acidity and intensity, taking on a dash of brightness that, somehow, resulted in a bit of attenuated depth. Drinking well.

2017 Koyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Borneo Motors Singapore. Popped and poured at home, 28 Dec 2020. Quite deeply coloured, this Chilean wine displays dark plums, currants and tangerines with a distinct note of malt, rye and heated gravel. Rounded with fine presence and understated intensity, structured with well-managed tannins. Drinking well.

2002 Château Cos D’Estournel, decanted on-site at Origin Grill, 30 Dec 2020. Deep garnet red. Opens with secondary nuances of cedar, cinnamon, dark currants and ripe wild berries in abundance, showing a very fine rounded presence with structured tannins that exert a certain dark intensity, slightly tarry on the floor. Almost stern at the finish. Not the lush velvety sort.

20201230_201934.jpg2002 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of Shirley Goh at Art, 30 Dec 2020. Wonderful depth of lovely yeasty overtones amidst ferrous minerals on the nose, producing some attractive complexity with a deep rounded chalkiness. Open with great sophistication and agility, displaying excellent concentration with superb crystalline clarity. Very beautifully balanced and integrated. Excellent.

2008 Tertre Roteboeuf, from the list of Art, 30 Dec 2020. Decanted on-site. Full bouquet of rosy floral fragrance tinged with vanillin and graphite elements. Medium-full. Rather fleshy, generously layered lovely ripe fruit and currants that exude warm savoury tones with velvety textures amid traces of earthy elements. Excellent, but still yet to peak.

Champagne Jean Vesselle Prestige Brut NV, from the list of restaurant L’Angelus, 31 Dec 2020. A blend of 30% pinot noir and 70% chardonnay from Bouzy, part of the Montagne de Reims, classified as Grand Cru. Somewhat pale. Attractive bouquet of marine air, saline minerals, subtle ferrous elements and yeast. Very good presence, fullness and depth of lemon citrus and tangerines within a coat of dense fine bubbles, open with fresh warm structured intensity, not too dry. Good finish.

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FUCK 2020: 2017 Bouchard Chevalier-Mont, 1961 Mouton Rothschild, 1990 Margaux, 1990 & 1982 Lafite Rothschild, 1982 Latour, 1991 Bonneau Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 2009 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Mont, 1990 Château Pétrus…

December 25, 2020

To end such a screwed-up year where we can neither travel nor host big parties, our small group decided to drink our treasured clarets on 15 December 2020 where only the First Growths of 1982 or 1990 would be befitting although nobody would ever deny a 1961 Mouton Rothschild. The line-up was preceded by a promenade of impressive whites while Shang Palace at the Shangri-la Singapore, as usual, lived up to its lofty reputation as the venue of choice for such a stellar evening. Many thanks, everyone, and may our woes be swept away by better tidings in 2021.

1979 Champagne Drappier Carte D’Or, courtesy of LF. Deep golden lustre. Superb powerful bouquet of aged chalk with reductive yeasty and ferrous elements amid brioche and honeysuckle. Still imbued with some residual fizz though generally dry, layered with excellent crystalline presence and fine acidity, lit with intense bright citrus as it turned a tad more metallic over time though somewhat short.

2017 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. Pale. Cool gentle icing, light citrus and green elements on the nose. Distinctly feminine, displaying great balance with a glowing intensity of white tones and expressive floral notes. Already quite open and accessible, not showy at all. Developed greater power with more minerally characters over time, yet retaining its lithe agility as it finished with subtle nuances of white pepper and nutmeg. More extroverted compared with Montrachet Grand Cru from the same vintage and producer (tasted just a week earlier), totally consistent with what one would expect of Chevalier-Montrachet. Superb.

1991 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Highly supple, proffering layers of mature fig and jackfruit with a surprising savoury quality. Well-structured with a certain crystalline quality, slightly stern towards the persistent finish but it’s the beautiful feminine suppleness that impressed most.

2009 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Lovely golden hue, seducing the senses with a tantalising complex of brioche and chalky minerals tinged with mature apricots. Open with a fabulous ripe golden tone, beautifully structured and layered with fine detail and refined acidity. So absolutely correct in every way. So Leflaive. Superb.

2012 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault, courtesy of LF. Cool crème and icing dominate on the nose whilst a deep core of yellow citrus seduces with teasing intensity, laced with sublime acidity that exude tremendous presence and definition. Almost chiseled with pinpoint precision, yet highly elegant and refined, finishing with great persistence amid traces of smoke and diesel. Superb.

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1961 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Sir Bob. Still showing a deep ruby crimson that belies its fifty-nine years, this wine exudes an outstanding nose of haw and glycerin tinged with incense and a dash of earthiness that evoke a real sense of lush velvetiness. The palate is superbly supple and fleshy, still imbued with very fine acidity and fair power from the concentrated bed of mature red fruits and tangerines, stretching with excellent linearity to a cool relaxed finish. Far from finished. Truly outstanding! I was reminded this estate was still a deuxième cru back in 1961. On the basis of this bottle, I’d say that Mouton really deserved its promotion to premier cru twelve years later. What a privilege!

1990 Château Lafite Rothschild. Deep garnet red. Superb earthy pungency on the nose, most alluring, leading to a well-defined palate of dark fruits tinged with capsicum. Structured with lovely proportions. Still imbued with gentle youthful intensity cushioned with velvety sexy tannins, glowing with an intense core of tangerines towards the end of dinner. Excellent.

1990 Château Margaux, courtesy of Vic. Deep garnet red with a crimson rim. Exudes wonderful vibrancy, freshness and intensity that belies its thirty years. Highly supple, imbued with layers of glorious dark fruits and currants with a deep core of tangerines, structured with lovely presence and refined acidity. Utterly seamless. Very naturally balanced, oozing superb charm and elegance. Still has decades ahead. Highly consistent with another bottle tasted just a week ago. Absolutely on song. Truly outstanding.

1982 Château Latour, courtesy of Kieron. Still impressively dark after thirty-eight years. Rather distant and aristocratic in demeanour, showing off its classic Pauillac signature of tobacco snuff and pencil shavings while the palate is wonderfully supple, still imbued with remarkably fresh acidity tinged with capsicum, new leather and cedar without being too involving, structured with understated masculinity. Still has decades ahead. Excellent.

1982 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson. Seductive glow of mature red fruits and currants along with a lovely floral fragrance underscored by a distinct tone of iron filings. Softly rounded, displaying excellent presence and fine acidity amid a tinge of capsicum, developing wonderful suppleness with a tremendous tone of sur-maturite in the glass. Beautifully proportioned and elegant. Quite the quintessential feminine Lafite, to the extent where some may wonder what the fuss is all about, which is to miss the point that great wines don’t need any attention. Superb.

1990 Château Pétrus, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Evolved crimson, proffering exuberant red fruits, haw and rosy hues on the nose that immediately suggests a wine of impeccable pedigree and distinction. Bright, supple and plush, layered with glorious fruit that impart lovely acidity with understated sweet intensity, that perfumed floral fragrance again marking its presence on a bed of velvety tannins underpinned with subdued iron filings. Glowing finish. We rightly guessed a Right Bank without realising we were tasting one of the very best efforts of Pétrus. A magnum of this same wine tasted back in 2017 was even more profound in depth, dimension and definition but this is still outstanding.

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Ric’s 53: 1998 Krug, 1996 Dom Pérignon, 2017 Bouchard Montrachet, 1990 Margaux, 1962 Guadet, 1994 Haut-Brion, 1986 Angelus Ausone 1998, 1990, 1983 & d’Yquem 1983

December 19, 2020

My fellow vino sisters and brethren showered me with some of the best drops of God throughout the day of 10 December 2020 when I turned a little older and, hopefully, wiser. My deepest gratitude to all for your wonderful company, friendship and generosity.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Russ. Light golden. Superb balance right off the blocks, its even tone of delicate complex citrus and pomelo casting an almost ethereal quality without calling attention to itself. Completely understated, poised with utter refinement and sophistication that very few others can rival. Outstanding.

1998 Champagne Krug. Deep greenish golden hue, exuding a gently reductive yeasty nose. Medium-bodied. Open with fine clarity and lively presence of dense yellow citrus and lime tinged with a trace of austerity. Fleshed out evenly with superb expanse and balance, imparting some bright minerally overtones within its mid-body, oozing with sweet gentle intensity at its lasting finish. Excellent.

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2016 Domaine Coche-Dury Bourgogne, courtesy of Stephen. Pale, proffering glimpses of cool icy tones at first with fleeting tropical fruit that became more pronounced after some time. Gently layered with white fruits that impart refined intensity and acidity, yielding fine precision with an open crystalline quality on a bed of subdued chalk. Distinctly feminine. Excellent.

2011 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ruchottes 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Pale. Rather restrained though the quiet intensity of white tones on the palate is evident, gradually warming up in the glass to yield a glowing mouthfeel of the classic dry Ramonet signature, displaying fine precision and elegance with early notes of nutmeg. Lovely.

2017 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru. Double decanted for eight hours prior and aired in bottle again for another two hours. Pale, proffering delicate white tones on the nose, almost faint at first. Quite ethereal on the palate with a lovely seamless presence of white flowers and nutmeg, almost aloof, gaining some mild intensity as it gradually opened to reveal excellent detail and precision, beautifully proportioned with everything in place. Distinctly feminine. Far from ready, of course, but a wine that is already so complete at its infancy can only be destined for greatness.

1962 Château Guadet. Ex-château, a bottle specially sent over by winemaker Vincent Lignac himself. In spite of the cork being completely soaked through (proof that it had never been re-corked), this wine is still quite deeply crimson, exuding a gentle delicious glow of mature red fruits with a soft supple presence of dark plums on a very fine graphite base, its tannins having melted ages ago. Very fine. Just shows how good a non-classified Saint-Émilion can be.

1986 Château Angelus, courtesy of Dolly. Still rather dark. Beautifully mellow, showing fine presence of ripe wild berries and darkish characters. Still imbued with good intensity even as its tannins have begun to recede, finishing a tad short with traces of cordite. Very fine.

1990 Château Margaux, courtesy of Russ. This supposed 100-pointer is absolutely gorgeous on the nose, opening with a deep dark intensity that led to a broad fleshy expanse of mature dark fruits and currants, structured with pliant supple tannins that extend a lovely mellow presence, still remarkably lively, layered with an even tone that took on greater intensity and fine minerally detail over time. Seemingly ageless. Truly wonderful.

1994 Château Haut-Brion. Somehow, this vintage of Haut-Brion has gained a certain cult status, and little wonder. Still showing a deep garnet red with a lovely bouquet of red fruits, kumquat and tangerines, this wine has mellowed beautifully as a fleshy seamless whole, exuding superb lift of mature fruit with fine depth, inner detail and acidity without calling attention to itself. Drinking superbly, reminding one again that there is no such thing as a bad Haut-Brion.

1998 Château Ausone, courtesy of Kieron. Rather darkish in tone and character, this wine opens with an astounding bouquet of luxuriant black fruits and currants that delivered rich layers of delicious ripe fruit and earthy minerals across all dimensions on the palate, exerting a vibrant high-toned complexity with lively acidity, much more open than before, displaying early secondary nuances. Still yet to peak. Superb.

1990 Château Ausone, courtesy of Sandy. Still deeply coloured though surprisingly restrained on the nose, almost haughty. The palate displays a great abundance of dark fruits and currants imbued with refined acidity and very finely detailed graphite elements that impart superb verve and supple intensity, trailed by overtones of cordite and capsicum all the way to its lasting finish. Still youthful after thirty years. Outstanding.

1983 Château Ausone, courtesy of Stephen. Displaying an evolved crimson, this medium-bodied Ausone has an open relaxed character, basking in delicious red fruits that carried a certain sur-maturite, poised with rounded suppleness. Has an air of rusticity in spite of all its elegance.

1983 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Russ. Deeply coloured. Layers of mature tangerines, nectarine and apricots dominate with superb vivacious presence, almost luscious though never in danger of being cloying, still imbued with youthful concentration and sublime acidity that ensure there is still plenty of life ahead. Outstanding.

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Ric’s 53: 2004 Château Lafite Rothschild, 1994 Château Lafleur, 1996 Château Palmer, 1989 Bouchard Beaune L’Enfant Jésus 1er, 2014 Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er…

December 14, 2020

Time to host my annual party, this year again at Jade Palace on 09 December 2020 without any specific theme. Would have involved more people and more wine were it not for Covid-19 restrictions. Many thanks for your contributions, guys!

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau Meursault-Perrieres 1er. Deep golden. Some initial cork taint was evident, though it cleared sufficiently to reveal mature white floral tones against laid-back chalk, citrus and tangerines. Possesses a cool placid quality with acidity that’s still fairly fresh, developing fine intensity with further traces of cinnamon though its finish was short. Certainly not the best example of this wine, as another bottle back in November 2019 had been outstanding.

2015 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Saint-Aubin Les Champlots 1er, courtesy of LF. Very pale and restrained, displaying just flashes of fleeting acidity before developing the classic laid-back Saint-Aubin character amid overtones of cool icing and vanillin, replete with a hint of tropical fruit. Fairly rounded but slightly recessed though there is no lack of depth, showing some early secondary development. Not the usual tight chiseled quality of PYCM.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er, courtesy of LF. Pale, proffering even minerally notes and gentle white tones, evoking a sense of floral fragrance with lovely cool clarity. Very well balanced and integrated, laced with superb acidity and exuberance that never went out of control. Excellent.

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1989 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus 1er, courtesy of MH. Evolved brownish red, evoking a hint of heated gravel amid swathes of mature plums and raspberries that still coat the palate with fine seamless intensity, distinctly feminine in demeanour as it tapered to a sweet gentle minty finish. Very fine.

2004 Château Lafite Rothschild. Superb lift of detailed red fruits framed within pliant structured tannins. Softly rounded and fleshy, revealing fine depth and layering, its refined acidity and fleeting intensity conferring a distinct feminine character, just ever so slightly pointed, finishing well with traces of capsicum. Quite the classic Lafite without the plushness of the best vintages.

1994 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Vic. Lovely fragrant lift of dark fruits and rose petals, well replicated on the palate with a rounded minerally sheen. Distinctly darkish in character with a vegetal tinge but superbly integrated, laced with fine subdued acidity. Drinking well. Lafleur in so-called “off” vintages scores well.

1996 Château Palmer, courtesy of Sanjay. Deep garnet red. Open with a subtle earthy glow amid dark berries, black fruits and currants, structured with plush tannins and superb acidity that imparted lovely presence. Great balance and integration. Caught at its peak and will hold for many more years. Excellent.

Nov 2020: 1985 Château La Conseillante, 1986 Lalande, 1996 Coche-Dury Meursault, 2012 Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, 2004 Château Mouton Rothschild

December 1, 2020

2018 Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz, 01 Nov 2002. Aired for 5 hours prior. Inky purplish black, imbued with copious black fruits and dark currants tinged with licorice, structured with rounded controlled tannins and tame acidity. Surprisingly accessible.

2015 Domaine Georges Lignier Chambolle-Musigny, popped and poured at Venue by Sebastian, 05 Nov 2020. Dusty red tint, proffering a gentle bouquet of red fruits and rosy hues with earthy saline minerals. Gently layered with understated weight and acidity, exuding lovely feminine presence and freshness. Turned slightly darker and a tad more austere before fleshing out with a deeper note of currants, eventually becoming highly intense and acidic after 90 minutes. Not ready.

2003 Domaine du Pegau Cuvée Réservée, aired well in advance at The Communal Place, Joo Chiat, 07 Nov 2020. Opaque mature red. Opens with dark plummy fruit, currants and tangerines on the nose while the well-integrated medium-bodied palate is appropriately darkish with a juicy succulence, layered with fine presence, intensity and acidity amid mild herbal overtones that culminated in a minty glow at the finish. Drinking well.

2017 Domaine Louis Jadot Macon-Villages. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 08 Nov 2020. Faint greenish hue. Attractive oily density imbued with white citrus amid some degree of chalkiness on the medium-bodied palate, displaying good clarity and concentration with a trace of floral bloom. Took on a lovely sheen of white minerally tones with understated intensity after 90 minutes. Great quality for SGD39.

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Classic pork belly sliders at Beng Thin

2000 Château Prieuré-Lichine, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 13 Nov 2020. Deep garnet red. Dark plums dominate with a lovely deep gentle fragrance whilst the palate is structured with soft rounded tannins that offer full appreciation of the glorious bed of dark currants, mulberries and fine acidity that glowed with detailed intensity after an hour. Quite excellent.

2006 Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa, popped and poured over lunch at Asia Grand, 15 Nov 2020. Dark plums, licorice, herbs and dark currants dominate with surprising warmth and ripeness, displaying lovely supple fullness and intensity. Almost velvety. Finished well with rounded tannins and understated acidity.

2016 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz. Popped and poured at Beng Thin, 21 Nov 2020. Impenetrable dark inky purple. Abundance of classic warm Barossa black fruits and currants tinged with licorice, displaying good weight and agility, not overwhelming in spite of its 15% abv. Certainly approachable but it doesn’t quite possess the rich creamy depth of the old style Dead Arm.

2017 Maison de Montille Saint-Romain. Popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 24 Nov 2020. This wine opens with a delicate minerally clarity, eventually fleshing out with very fine presence of delicious white fruits and nutmeg tinged with grassy elements amid chiseled chalky tones, showing excellent inner definition, balance and verve. Highly under-rated. Brings back memories of a picnic I had at Saint-Romain in November 2017.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée NV, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Deeply coloured. Attractive bouquet of light peaches, intense tangerines and kumquat that led to a clean dry palate, imbued with fine acidity and a hint of austere minerals. Shows good presence and freshness, developing a bit of smoky quality and earthiness after some time. Drinking well.

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2015 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Tasted blind. Pale. Rather shy at first, proffering just whiffs of paraffin and tangerine, showing very fine acidity though the fruit is rather backward. Fleshed out very well as it warmed up to the right temperature with a highly refined white floral fragrance on a bed of understated minerals, becoming a little more Chassagne-like in its white tonal fullness though it quickly receded back to its classic Saint-Aubin character, finishing with good persistence. Excellent.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Dull golden tint. Shy, displaying a subdued chalkiness with recessed fig and apricot. Took its time to develop superb fullness on a base of chalky expanse, imbued with very fine acidity and understated intensity that lend further verve and agility, producing a lovely fleshiness. Excellent.

1996 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. This wine opens with an attractive tinge of reduction amid traces of heated pebbles, marking its entry with a delicate open chalkiness, very well balanced with understated complexity, remarkably refined and elegant in spite of its youthful energy and vibrancy. Became a little more crisp with a rich oily density but the style is distinctly different from the razor-sharp precision of Coche nowadays, appreciably more of restrained nobility and balance than outright exuberance. All the better. Superb.

2000 Château Haut-Bailly, aired for three hours prior at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Deep purple with a bare rim of crimson. Raspberries, mulberries and dark roses dominate with a bit of sweet overtones. Quite fleshy with fairly sharp acidity amid traces of bright minerals, slightly darkish in character at first though it eventually opened up with mellowed intensity, revealing detailed red fruits, haw and mature plummy tones. Still yet to peak.

1985 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Tasted blind. Bright crimson. Dominant lift of capsicum amidst dark fruits and currants. Highly agile on the palate, lit by mature red plums and earthy minerals that impart a mellow complexity with delicate balance and fine inner detail. We were spot on in calling it La Conseillante though it gave the impression of a much younger wine. Excellent.

1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, courtesy of Vic at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Tasted blind. Displaying a well-evolved crimson, this wine still displays a confident presence of fleshy dark tones that exude a distinct femininity, tinged with a characteristic leafiness (undoubtedly from the petit verdot favoured by this estate in its blend) that gave away its identity, structured with well-defined acidity and supple tannins, developing a further hint of snuff and wood chips towards its fine finish. Very lovely.

2004 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Double-decanted on-site and tasted blind. Deep garnet red tinged with crimson at the rim, displaying a deep intensity of dark berries, red fruits, currants and dark cherries on the nose and palate, imbued with a discernible presence of graphite. Rounded and fleshy though slightly dryish and stern, fairly open and well balanced with very fine depth and wealth of inner detail. Has a certain masculine sophistication, breed and pedigree. We thought a Las-Cases or, perhaps, even a Latour. Excellent.

2017 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé, popped and poured at home on 30 Nov 2020. Light golden-greenish hue, proffering fairly rich white floral tones with very fine clarity, tinged with darkish minerally undertones. Has excellent presence, acidity and freshness, showing good definition and structure. Compares very favourably with any Côtes de Beaune.

Saint-Romain in November 2017

2007 Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane, 2006 A Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin; Croix Rameau: 2006 & 2017 F Lamarche; Petits Monts: 2014 Canneyt & 2017 G Noëllat

November 23, 2020

Our small group hit a new record for the number of bottles consumed per person on 11 November 2020 at Imperial Treasure Great World, where the primary aim was to welcome C J back from his onerous duties at a distant sultanate whilst exploring the relative merits of smaller plots of Vosne-Romanée. The focus was on La Croix Rameau 1er, a 0.60 ha plot at the north-eastern corner of Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru with three owners (Lamarche 0.21, Coudray Bizot 0.20, Cacheaux 0.16), and Les Petits Monts 1er. The latter, as the name implies, is an uphill promontory comprising rocky clay and limestone flanked by illustrious neighbours: Cros Parantoux 1er to the north, Aux Reignots 1er to the south, and Richebourg Grand Cru to the east. As expected, the Petits Monts 1er showed greater dimension in every aspect apart from the finish. Thank you, Dr Ngoi, for dinner and for the wines as well.

Petits Monts

2008 Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, courtesy of Vic. Quite deep in colour, proffering a lifted deep yeasty bouquet followed by dense chalky minerals, yellow citrus and pomelo on the full-bodied palate that bore a distinct minerally shine mouthfeel, imparting a dry austere intensity. Not ready.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon P2, courtesy of C J. Light dull golden, exuding a delicate floral lightness and clarity from the excellent concentration of clear citrus, medium-bodied with an open dryness, developing a bit of layered depth over time. Still youthful.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of C J. Light golden hue, proffering a lifted lightness matched by a dry delicate concentration of clear citrus within a narrow spectrum of flavours, slightly bright. Still rather tightly coiled with tense acidity. Truly for the long haul.

2012 Château Pape Clement Blanc. Dull golden. Most unusual nose of paint, enamel and paraffin with a powerful suggestion of rich oily density. Forwardly balanced but still tight, layered with a soothing creaminess amid cool icing. Far from ready.

2017 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. Beautiful deep pinot tint. Restrained with some rosy hues. Medium-bodied. Fleshy and rounded, displaying fine balance and acidity though narrow in spectrum, mellowing after some time with greater detail and relaxed intensity though short. Still primal.

2006 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. More evolved in color. More effusive as well in rose petals and red fruits tinged with paraffin, structured with very good definition on the medium-bodied palate. Very well integrated and balanced with excellent purity of fruit but lacking layering and depth. Short finish.

2017 Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er. Deeply coloured, hinting at heated pebbles amidst delicious  red fruits and currants on the nose. Medium-full. Rather narrow in spectrum at first, eventually fleshing out with broader expanse, displaying very good presence with fine acidity and intensity though there is a persistent trace of minerally shine within its understated tannin structure. Not ready.

2014 Charles Van Canneyt Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts 1er. Beautiful clear ruby, exuding a very fine presence of ripe cherries and rose petals. Seamlessly integrated with superb acidity and verve, showing lovely balance though marred by a short finish.

2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Christiane. Evolved pinot tint, proffering an effusive rosy fragrance. Fleshy and rounded with lovely presence of fruit underscored by controlled acidity and intensity. Utterly seamless, finishing well with excellent linearity. Exudes a very correct feel in its refined feminine elegance, almost delicate although there is understated power, just missing that extra dimension of La Tâche even though it is nestled right next to that famous monopole.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS. Glorious pinot tint. Wonderful lift of cherries, red fruits and deep rosy hues. Medium-full. Rounded with smooth velvety textures and excellent ripeness of fruit, oozing feminine charm at just the right level of concentration, acidity and intensity. Most excellent.

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Chambertin & Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

November 11, 2020

Superficially, there may not be much to differentiate between Chambertin Grand Cru and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Both are approximately equal in size (the latter a little larger) and both are sited adjacent to each other along the same side of the Route des Grands Crus, separated only by a narrow dirt lane. In his book Grand Cru, Remington Norman writes that, perhaps, the vines of Clos de Bèze get a little more light which may, in part, account for the wine’s ability to combine velvety power with alluring grace while Chambertin itself tends to be more austere and structured. For our blind tasting on 10 November 2020 where the wines had been aired considerably in advance, I certainly could not call a Chambertin from a Clos de Bèze, perhaps because two of the former hailed from Domaine Ponsot (what a rare coincidence, considering Ponsot owns only a very tiny 0.1 ha of Chambertin), pressing home the point again that, for Burgundy, it’s the producer that matters most. We left it to the little old lady at Jade Palace, Singapore, to pour us the blinded reds in any order. To our astonishment, she appeared to have hit the correct order for each wine grew from strength to strength. The line-up was preceded by a mini-promenade of whites that proved to be a worthy front to the evening’s main event. The wines are described in the order poured. Many thanks, everyone.

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Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze on the morning of 21 November 2017

2006 Champagne Comtes Taittinger Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of KG. Pale. Some attractive pungent earthiness on the nose offset by great density of clear citrus and green fruits on the palate, yielding bone-dry intensity and precision with a dash of sweetness. Still primal.

2016 Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet Le Cailleret 1er. Beautiful white floral fragrance, displaying a very lovely bloom with a sense of oily density. Excellent presence and mouthfeel, hinting at nutmeg and other exotic white tones, glowing with fine clarity and refined acidity. Became considerably more relaxed over time with a quiet elegance. Montille’s plot is just immediately north of Drouhin’s Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru along the same longitude, separated by just a small road.

2013 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Clos Saint Marc, courtesy of Vic. Beautiful clarity on the eye and palate, proffering lifted white tones, tangy spice, capsicum and nutmeg with a dash of vanillin. Rather open. Very well layered with detailed presence and excellent refinement, receding a little into its shell after some time before re-emerging with even greater clarity and definition though it remained rather understated in intensity, finishing a little short. Drinking well. Totally biodynamic, Jean-Marc uses laser beams to ensure perfect alignment of all his barrels.

2009 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Its distinct pallor belies an enthralling feminine fragrance of white floral tones that seduces the senses with gentle elegance, rather understated in intensity and attack as it traversed the palate with effortless grace, etching layers of white fruits, clear citrus and grassy elements that yield great clarity and detail, becoming more robust and structured by the end of the evening. Has that same regal demeanour as Montrachet Grand Cru which, perhaps, carries even greater inner definition and seamless integration. Superb.

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2008 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambertin Grand Cru. Evolved ruby with a crimson rim. Lifted bouquet of red fruits, cherries, vanillin and mint tinged with some incense. Fleshy and rounded with predominant plummy tones, exerting fine intensity of fruit that finished in a minty trail but this wine doesn’t quite possess the extended depth and layering of the best examples, lacking stature.

1997 Domaine Ponsot Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Displaying a mature brownish-red, this wine opens with a distinct herbal medicinal sweetness amidst an abundance of mature plummy tones, rounded with striking acidity on the palate where the lovely ripeness of fruit contrasted well with traces of earthy austerity within an understated tannin structure without any burliness. Quite excellent.

2002 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Opaque purplish. Lifted bouquet of dark cherries and raspberries. Very well-endowed on the palate, rather plump and plummy, laced with superb acidity that imparted lovely freshness. Very naturally balanced with good structural definition. Caught at its peak and will hold for many years. Excellent.

2009 Henri Boillot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Deep colour, bit of crimson at rim. Fascinating deep bouquet of dark fruits and currants. Fleshy and rounded with warm ripe fruit, well extracted with a plummy dominance, slightly velvety. Great balance.

2007 Domaine Ponsot Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of KG. Classic evolved pinot tint, exuding a great lift of ripe red fruits and tangerines on the nose and generously endowed palate, seamlessly integrated with wonderfully refined balance and superb acidity, gaining further intensity over time as it developed a deep tangerine core. Outstanding.

2006 Vincent Girardin Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Purplish hues. Still youthful on the palate, rather fleshy, displaying an abundance of well-extracted ripe berries that exert a warm velvety presence with very fine acidity and intensity, structured with refined tannins. One for the long haul.

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