Ric's Wine Journal

Champagne Piper Heidsieck Essentiel Brut NV at the Silverkris Lounge, Changi Airport T2, 03 Jul 2026. Light golden, proffering peaches and pears on the nose with a lively presence of citrus fruit and subtle minerals on the palate within a sheen of smooth bubbles. Drinking well.

2021 Lawson’s Dry Hills Marlborough Pinot Noir at the Silverkris Lounge, Changi Airport T2, 03 Jul 2026. Good colour. Hint of exotic spice on the nose, whilst raspberries and cherries dominate on the medium palate with a bit of waxiness. Rather straightforward.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV, on board SQ918 SIN-MNL, 03 Jul 2026. Light golden, exuding perfumed white fragrance, yellow citrus and subtle chalky undertones. Fairly crisp, exerting moderate dry intensity. Lingers well.

2022 Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Traisental Obere Steigen, on board SQ918 SIN-MNL, 03 Jul 2026. Pale greenish golden. There is an attractive dash of crème de la crème on the nose that matches perfectly with the cool icing and orchard fruit on the medium palate, displaying very good presence and integration with a hint of matchstick smoke at the finish. An astute choice.

2024 Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc, on board SQ918 SIN-MNL, 03 Jul 2026. Pale, showing fine character with a distinct note of diesel on the nose, leading to a slick oily density on the medium-weight palate with overtones of nutmeg. Rounded and subtly layered.

2023 Victor Bérard Lirac, on board SQ918 SIN-MNL, 03 Jul 2026. Deep garnet. This southern Rhône is richly imbued with dark plummy fruit and ripe raspberries, structured with well-integrated rounded tannins laced with a sweetish undertow. Weighty but not jammy.

Claire de Jour Merlot at NAIA First Meridian Lounge, Manila, 05 Jul 2026. Non-vintage! Good colour. Forward in mulberries and dark plums with undertones of forest floor, wrapped in warm sweet rounded tannins that exude supple intensity.

2020 Clarendelle, on board SQ913 MNL-SIN, 05 Jul 2026. Deep garnet, proffering just a hint of darkish fruit on the nose though the medium weight palate is well-endowed in mulberries and dark plums, well integrated with fine acidity.

2022 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py, courtesy of LF. Aired in bottle for four hours ahead of lunch, 06 Jul 2026. Deep purple, exuding wafts of raspberries, mulberries and cherries with overtones of enamel. The fruit is well replicated on the medium-full palate, obscured initially by a dominant note of saline that dissipated quite quickly, revealing a palate that is fresh and rather well integrated.

Champagne Taittinger Brut Réserve at Kyoten, 16 Jul 2026. Pale greenish. Distant green fruits with a floral lift. Slender medium presence, structured with soft bubbles and supple intensity. Modest finish.

2008 Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée Speciale Les Chetillons, courtesy of Sir Bob at Kyoten, 16 Jul 2026. Light golden. This grand cru blanc de blancs opens with a reductive funk that blew off quite quickly to reveal layers of distilled white fruits, yellow citrus and lime with a hint of longans, boasting lithe agility within its luxurious sheen of refined bubbles that stretched with glowing length.

2020 Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet at Kyoten, 16 Jul 2026. Cool tones emanate from its greenish-golden pallor, proffering excellent clarity with an unhurried restraint, the fruit set a little backwards, allowing a subtle note of saline and subtle acidity to dominate with clean precision. Pairs surprisingly well with the delicate Japanese cuisine.

2016 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Mouchère at Kyoten, 16 Jul 2026. Pale. This monopole exudes a distinct note of morning vapour rising from warm heated pebbles, touched with a dash of saline. Highly refined, boasting fine clarity and refined intensity with an undertow of nutmeg. Good length.

2015 Camille Giroud Chambertin Grand Cru at Kyoten, 16 Jul 2026. Good colour, opening with a rosy restraint set against a bit of earthiness. Surprisingly soft with a supple succulence within plush tannins, though the fruit is too recessed. Could do with more stuffing.

2011 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Alan Chong at Kyoten, 16 Jul 2026. Poured from magnum. Deep garnet. Enticing bouquet of green capsicum, dark plums, ripe wild berries and mulberries, leading to a sleek supple palate imbued with a certain earthy reduction amid an overall ripe warmth. Neither opulent nor succulent, a tad angular in tannin structure with a dominance of vegetal and ferrous elements.

2022 MJ Tricot Meursault, at the grand opening of Dr Lui’s clinic, 18 Jul 2026. Light golden. Rather restrained on the nose. Not too reductive, displaying good presence of bright yellow citrus with fine acidity. Finished well.

2015 M Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Le Clos, at grand opening of Dr Lui’s clinic, 18 Jul 2026. Good colour. Medium-full with plummy darkish fruit amid dusty tannins. Nondescript.

2012 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésime, at the grand opening of Dr Lui’s clinic, 18 Jul 2026. Pale. Imbued with high-toned yellow citrus that exert dryish intensity on a backdrop of stony minerals and lemon bitters.

2018 Markowitsch Pinot Noir Reserve, at Oncocare’s anniversary, 18 Jul 2026. Poured from magnum. Classic pinot tint. Good presence of raspberries and cherries that impart excellent minty verve with a sweetish undertow, structured with refined supple tannins. Good length, though slightly austere at the finish. From Austria.

These wonderful wines are mostly courtesy of the family Yu, père et fil, who also generously hosted dinner at So Good Seafood restaurant, 14 July 2026. Thank you!

2002 Champagne Bollinger R.D., courtesy of Russ. Dull golden. Yeast, mature chalk and ferrous minerals dominate with undertones of orange peel. Highly engaging in its full fresh glacial tone and crisp intensity that lend fine precision, culminating in a modest finish of lemon bitters.

2022 Domaine Roulot Meursault Narvaux, courtesy of Sir Bob. Nose of gentle crème de la crème and light tones that confer lovely transparency. The creaminess extended onto the medium-full palate, developing a bit of gleaming agility in countenance to the usual reduction favoured by this estate. My second bottle in as many days.

2022 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er La Garenne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Pale, proffering a distinct note of nutmeg amid a flourish of early complexity. Medium-weight and highly agile, marked by an elegant restraint of distant green fruits underpinned by ferrous minerals, developing greater opulence over time, yielding fine clarity with a dash of crème and saline.

2018 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clavoillon, courtesy of Kieron. Pale. This wine opens with an inviting cool restraint, yielding a lovely rounded presence of lychees and tropical fruits that impart fleeting intensity. Gelled together into an enticing complex of nutmeg, olives and floral flourish, stretching to a lengthy dryish finish

2018 Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis. Good colour. Plums, roses, red cherries and haw dominate throughout the nose and medium palate. Well balanced, structured with supple velvety tannins that impart fine tension and bright intensity. Still rather tight. Plenty of potential ahead.

1986 Château Margaux, courtesy of Russ. Deep crimson, proffering a gentle bouquet of green capsicum, haw and velvety red fruits that extended well onto the medium palate, imbued with an expanse of darkish ripe fruit that exude quiet intensity with just a vegetal hint. Lithe, fleshy and still amazingly fresh, finishing with a wisp of white incense. Far from drying out.

2001 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Russ. Deep golden hue, exuding a dense bouquet of apricot and nectarine underscored by orange peel. Luscious, smooth and weighty in orangey citrus, imparting an exquisite mouthfeel of sublime acidity laced with just the right degree of sweetness tempered by subtle ferrous elements, all seamlessly layered in an extended finish. This outstanding Sauternes has aged very well, perhaps nearing its peak and will hold for decades.

Champagne Saint Louis NV at the club lounge of the Grand Hyatt Chengdu, 02 Jun 2026. Pale. Lively presence of distant green fruits and stony minerals within a sheen of soft bubbles, displaying fine intensity with good balance and structure. Drinking well.

2025 Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Chardonnay, on board SQ843 TFU-SIN, 06 Jun 2026. Served in a paper cup in Economy Class (shame on you Singapore Airlines…totally unacceptable!!). Aromas of peaches, pears and yellow citrus amid a general chalkiness, showing good chardonnay character with just the right level of intensity, if somewhat faceless given Penfolds’ house style of multi-district blending.

Rockford Black Shiraz (2023 disgorgement). Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 11 Jun 2026. Impenetrable deep purple, proffering classic notes of mocha, currants, black cherries and barbecue with a dash of licorice. The bubbles are baby soft, cushioning the weight of ample fruit laced with just the right degree of acidity amid a bare hint of sweetness. Opened up after some time to reveal its fabled notes of liqueur between lithe fleshy layers, conveying immediate delicious freshness.

2015 Jean-Marc Roulot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières, courtesy of Vic at Jinjo, 12 Jun 2026. Light golden. This wine opens with a weighty mature chalkiness richly coated with crème de la crème, boasting very subtle layers of fruit laid on sublime acidity with overtones of nutmeg. Superbly integral with a feminine roundness that stretched with lovely length, finishing in a splash of diesel. Superb.

2022 Atomique³ Le Basalt Chardonnay, courtesy of Tristan Sjoberg at Jinjo, 12 Jun 2026. Very pale. Reductive though persuasive on the nose, perhaps more Puligny than Meursault. Highly supple, boasting keen citrus with a sharp lean definition that impart great balance and clarity with subtle acidity. From Willamette Valley, made by the same team at Roses & Arrow in collaboration with Jean-Marc Roulot.

2022 Frédèric Cossard Puligny-Montrachet, aired in advance before dinner at Jinjo, 12 Jun 2026. Light golden. Gentle whiff of longans and white fruits with a floral undertow, imbued with a cool supple glacial intensity though there is a distinct salinity as well, developing further notes of tangerines.

2022 Domaine Roulot Meursault Narvaux, courtesy of Sir Bob at Jinjo, 12 Jun 2026. Popped and poured. Pale luminosity. Good lift of subtle shades of nutmeg and balsamic elements. Smooth and seamlessly integrated with lean chiseled definition, fleshing out with a minerally tension amid cool tones.

2010 Domaine Jacques-Frédèric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Clos de la Marechale monopole, courtesy of Sir Bob at Jinjo, 12 Jun 2026. Classic pinot tint. Quite effusive in delicious currants and raspberries on the nose and medium-full palate, displaying a pointed acidity offset by the cool ripeness of fruit tinged with mandarins.

2023 Roses & Arrow Eola Springs Pinot Noir, courtesy of Tristan Sjoberg at Jinjo, 12 Jun 2026. Popped and poured. Rather darkish in demeanour from its abundant black fruits and dark cherries. Very expertly crafted with a rounded fleshiness in spite of the bold presence of fruit, dressed in supple acidity with imperceptible tannins and a bit of earthy undertow. Great balance. Moderate length. Maiden vintage, made from vines planted only in 2019.

2023 Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba, by the glass at Locanda, 20 Jun 2026. Deep garnet. Intense red fruits with darkish overtones on the nose and palate. Imbued with supple concentration of fruit within a svelte tannin structure that impart plenty of lovely tension with a sweetish undertow. Modest finish.

2021 Peccavi Chardonnay. Popped and poured at Astoria Brasserie, 24 Jun 2026. Pale luminosity. Quite effusive in peaches, kiwis and green fruits, boasting rich luxuriant layers on the palate with a distinct note of earthy reduction, imbued with just the right degree of vivacious acidity. Utterly delicious, developing further dimension as a dash of keen citrus crept in, stretching out with lush persistence. This is my favourite Margaret River chardonnay, better in value and drinking pleasure than Leeuwin Estate.

2023 Château Rousseau Cuvée Tradition, 30 Jun 2026 at Summer Hill. Very deep purple. Darkish in demeanour with a predominance of black fruits, earth and ferrous undertones that impart a distinct austerity. Fairly well integrated, developing a sheen of graphite minerals within svelte tannins with a bit of sweetish undertow.

A lovely dinner at Ki-sho on 08 June 2026, very generously hosted by Anthony Oei who also popped the William Kelley Volnay and Kei Shiogai on a whim. All the wines were drinking beautifully, perfectly matching the sublime culinary art of Executive Chef Taro Takayama who had previously been operating at an eponymous establishment. Some of these new domaines command a very steep premium right from the start and while the wines are, indeed, very expertly crafted, there are plenty of choices for the connoisseur at such price points. Many thanks again to everyone for your kind generosity.

2013 Champagne Salon Cuvée S Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut, courtesy of Anthony. Light pale greenish. Keen rounded bouquet of pomelo, pears and peaches amid a fabulous minerally density. Full-bodied, displaying crystalline clarity and sharp attack of lemon bitters that cut through with a bold dry intensity that lingered with lasting persistence. Great balance.

2008 Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, courtesy of Vic. Pale golden. Fairly effusive in deep yeasty tones, boasting a sharp attack of dense yellow citrus with shades of bitter lemon that impart bold supple intensity. Somewhat narrow in spectrum initially, fleshing out eventually with fine balance and linearity. Yet to develop.

2017 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères. Pale. This wine opens with a restrained glow of white fruits and melons amid a recessed chalkiness that fills the palate with an enticing rounded softness in spite of the full presence of fruit, topped with a cool luxuriant coat of crème de la crème. True to Ramonet’s style, there is a very lovely ebb and flow of gentle feminine intensity, conveying fine tension and linearity throughout its integral length. Punches way above its village status. No wonder producers such as Coche-Dury and Chavy-Chouet have also begun producing from this plot that abuts Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru at the easterly end.

2018 Domaine Pierre-Yvés Colin-Morey Meursault-Charmes 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Pale greenish, proffering reductive tones of lime and clear citrus couched with a certain restraint. Medium-full, imbued with copious fruit and sublime acidity that impart terrific tension and intensity. Yet to develop.

1995 J-F Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Sir Bob. Golden luminosity. A little autumnal in character initially where notes of apricot amid a mature chalky creaminess are evident. Fleshed out quite quickly with keen citrus underpinned by refined acidity that conveyed adequate youthful freshness, poised with aristocratic elegance. Still holding on well, though at 31 years, one should start drinking up gradually.

2023 William Kelley Coteaux Bourguignons, courtesy of Kieron. Pale. Unusual nose of nutmeg with overtones of mint. Imbued with generous swathes of white fruit seamlessly integrated with superb acidity, exerting a focused intensity that swells and ebbs with excellent coherence. More integral over time with glowing warmth though its finish is somewhat modest.

2023 William Kelley Volnay 1er Carelle Sous la Chapelle, courtesy of Anthony. Good colour. Deep effusive bouquet of red fruits and cherries. Well extracted and wonderfully ripe, underscored by a deeper vein of dark currants and sleek acidity that impart a focused intensity and tensile presence though it didn’t seem to develop further in the glass. Modest finish.

2023 Kei Shiogai Pommard Poisot, courtesy of Anthony. Good colour, exuding a lovely feminine fragrance of cool ripe cherries and red fruits tinged with a bit of stems. Superbly proportioned and integrated with an unforced agility, boasting fine definition. Just a tad reductive towards its moderate finish, reflecting the rich ferrous soils of its terroir. Almost ethereal.

2022 Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet, courtesy of LF over lunch with Vic, 04 May 2026. Light golden. Fairly effusive in gentle floral hues, apricot and dried mangoes. Medium-full, imbued with a concentrated presence of lively citrus fruit that impart exquisite intensity, showing good refinement and sophistication even for village.

2022 Kumeu River Mate’s Chardonnay. Popped and poured at Wah Lok, 08 May 2026. My second bottle in three months. Pale luminosity. Very Puligny-like on the nose, highly expressive and enticing. The medium-full palate is layered with a fine chalky density imbued with white fruits, melons and almonds at just the right level of acidity, conveying elegant verve with a dash of ferrous minerality towards its moderate finish. Highly successful.

2021 Comando G La Bruja, courtesy of LF over lunch with Vic, 11 May 2026. Aired in bottle for five hours prior. Clear brownish red, exuding an attractive deep rosy fragrance along with haw and red fruits. Medium-full though surprisingly lithe and delicate for a 100% grenache, imbued with lovely acidity that impart succulent intensity.

2016 Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Bas de Combes. Aired in bottle for four hours prior to lunch at Crab At Bay, 14 May 2026. Brownish red with a trace of crimson at the rim, proffering quite a fairly intense lift of ripe raspberries and mulberries. The weighty palate shows a high-toned acidity to go with the glow of red fruits, well extracted with succulent intensity amid smooth tannins, becoming a little more dense and velvety over time, underpinned by a dash of sweetness.

2021 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet, courtesy of LF over lunch with Vic, 18 May 2026. Aired in bottle for five hours prior. Pale yellowish-green. Distant green fruits and floral hues. Quite excellent in the mouth, displaying a lean minerally tone along with good presence of lemon citrus in equal measure, laced with keen acidity that impart a teasing intensity.

2016 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves 1er Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus. Aired in bottle for a few hours ahead of lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 25 May 2026. Fullish. Well extracted with an abundance of ripe raspberries and mulberries dressed in velvety tannins with a sweetish undertow, perhaps a tad gruff and rustic in keeping with its Beaune origin. Lightened up further in the glass, opening up to reveal more delicate tones of rose petals and cherries, considerably more refined and integral. A monopole of Bouchard.

2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Clos des Porrets St-Georges monopole. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 26 May 2026. Good colour. Effusive in deep rosy hues that exudes a glowing intensity of haw and red fruits, displaying excellent freshness with fine precision, developing a dash of earthy ferrous undertones over time.

An evening of Bordeaux with The Professor at Ying, SICC, on 06 May 2026. The 1990s are really coming into their own now, having hit the 30-year mark, still holding up very well. Many thanks!

2023 Sandhi Central Coast Chardonnay, courtesy of Hiok. Pale. Effusive in green fruits and resinous hues though a little lean with moderate intensity, showing good focus and precision with a tinge of salinity.

2021 Domaine Jean-Chartron Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Pucelle. This monopole exudes a classic Puligny nose of sublime chalk and white floral hues from its glorious luminosity, very generously layered in citrus and pomelo that impart overtones of lemon bitters amid a glacial coolness.

2003 Château Clos Fourtet, courtesy of The Professor. Deep crimson, exuding a funky earthy pungency that I really like. Medium-full. Generous in mulberries and ripe wild berries, still imbued with lively acidity with a robust minerally base, displaying a bit of rustic character. From a super-hot vintage.

1996 Château Clos Fourtet, courtesy of Hiok. Opaque reddish brown. Quite reductive on the nose, while the ample palate shows a predominance of darkish forest notes with a smooth velvety sheen, structured with firm tannins that impart a bit of austerity. More integral after some time, finishing with a dash of mint.

2010 Château Pichon Baron Longueville, courtesy of KP Hui. Deep purple, boasting generous swathes of dark currants, raspberries and some red fruits but not heavy at all on the palate, highly integral with soft refined tannins that confer fine intensity and lithe supple succulence. One senses a certain pedigree but it is difficult to place at this stage, somewhat deceptive as it doesn’t quite show the classic Pauillac character.

1998 Château La Gomerie. Deep crimson. This wine exudes a lovely rosy fragrance, matched most appropriately by a feminine intensity with sublime acidity on the velvety palate. Wonderfully succulent and integral, glowing with impeccable balance. Someone thought it was a Lafite. It’s really that good.

1996 Château Montrose, courtesy of Vic. Evolved crimson. Very lovely on the nose, full of lively verve that carried fleshy layers of mature red fruits, dark currants and cinnamon underscored by fine tension and acidity that gelled together beautifully. Very impeccably proportioned and refined. Wonderfully integral yet unlikely to have peaked. Quite outstanding.

1995 Château Margaux, courtesy of WCY. Deeply coloured. This wine opens with an exuberant fragrance of supple darkish characters. Wonderfully lithe and fleshy within very finely-grained tannins that impart sustained tension, imbued with a deeper core of black fruits that deliver swathes of sweet dark currants. Beautifully balanced, making up for its modest length. Highly captivating.

The theme was “unusual burgs and pinot” for this gathering on 23 April 2026 at Imperial Treasure Great World, whatever that means. Some of us managed to dig up wines from less commonly tasted communes that were showing very well and which should feature more in any serious collection. As usual, all wines were tasted blind, proving that even lesser-known producers deserve enormous respect, for they were all drinking well. Many thanks, gentlemen, for your generous contributions!

2018 Champagne Leclerc Briant Cuvée Abyss Brut, courtesy of LF. Clear golden luminosity, exuding a classic yeasty pungency. Imbued with pomelo and citrus within a sheen of soft refined bubbles, boasting crystalline clarity and precision. Aged in bottle in the deep sea.

2021 Domaine Florent Garaudet Monthelie Sous le Cellier Blanc. Keen bouquet of intense clear citrus with a hint of orchard fruit. Fullish with a rounded gleam, its sleek acidity and ripe warmth conveying a distinct feminine intensity with a trace of lemon bitters. Highly integral. Moderate length. A real gem, tucked between Meursault and Volnay.

2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre, courtesy of Kieron. Pale golden. Cool icing and glacial tones dominate. Very subtly layered with refined acidity and a bit of oily density, exuding a delicate feminine presence.

2012 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Vic. Displaying a heavier tint of gold, this wine has taken on an autumnal glaze, perhaps a little more developed than expected for its fourteen years and ex-domaine provenance, the fruit just a tad backwards in favour of dominant acidity.

2019 Egly-Ouriet Ambonnay Rouge Coteaux Champenois ‘Cuvée des Grandes Cotes’ V.V. Darkish tint of pinot. Forward bouquet of haw and red plums with good density of fruit on the medium palate, tinged with a bit of herbal tone. Wonderfully agile and slick, more perfumed and exuberant over time as it developed overtones of exotic spice along with a fleeting salinity. Moderate length. Difficult to place when blinded.

2017 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Good colour. Rather restrained with a controlled rosy fragrance amid deeper swathes of red fruits and darkish flavours, framed by smooth supple tannins that exert elegant restraint with medium presence though there isn’t much inner detail.

2012 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. A most uncommon bottle from the domaine’s meagre holdings of 400 square metres (0.04 ha) within that plot of grand cru. Displaying a deeper tint of pinot, this wine is quite pronounced in pochai and wild berries on the nose, while the medium-full palate is ample in ripe red fruits, generously proportioned with a bit of stemmy undertow that adds a bit of austere rusticity.

2012 Domaine Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Gaudichots, courtesy of LF. Classic pinot tint. Ample layers of fleshy darkish fruit, showing some secondary development with overtones of spice, cedar and capsicum, dressed in supple tannins with lively acidity that impart fine tension. Modest finish. From tiny holdings directly abutting La Tache Grand Cru yet sufficiently differentiated. Amazing how those medieval monks already knew back then.

2012 Domaine Follin-Arlebet Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Heavier tint of pinot, delivering darkish fruit on the nose and palate with considerable power and intensity. Still seemingly youthful with supple tannins, displaying fine length and linearity with a bit of exotic spice towards its finish.

2016 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deeper tint of pinot. Forward balance of darkish fruit tinged with varnish, replete with a subtle undertow of iron filings and vegetal tones on the generous palate, structured with well-managed tannins.

2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Classic pinot tint. Considerable age is evident, exuding a delicious rosy fragrance with delicate intensity, matched by a highly integral medium palate that is still wonderfully fresh with a deeper core of mandarins imbued with precise tannins and subtle complexity. Excellent.

A mostly Chambolle line-up over dinner at Sonder on 28 April 2026, very kindly hosted by Anthony Oei. Chef Handika’s brand of fusion cuisine incorporating many elements of Indonesian cooking has won him a large following but, sadly, he would be returning to Jakarta after that same evening. The wines were all singing although I would have preferred pairing them with a non-spicy menu. Many thanks, gentlemen, for your kind generosity!

2008 Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of LF. Dull golden, opening with yeasty overtones and keen zesty clear citrus that led to an exuberant dryish intensity underscored by a modest depth of cool ripe fruit. Still primal. The 2008s really do need plenty of bottle time.

2018 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Referts. Pale golden. Rather cool and distant in spite of the abundance of orchard fruit, imparting a restrained intensity underpinned by a subdued earthiness amid floral hues that conveyed a lovely rounded elegance. Went on to develop a more focused presence after some time.

2020 Domaine Fontaine Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Dull golden. Alluring nose of nutmeg, grapefruit and gentle citrus amid morning dew and distant orchard fruit. Rounded with restrained acidity and intensity, the initial traces of austere minerals giving way to greenish mandarins. Moderate length. Very elegant though yet to develop true complexity.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Les Ouvrées Rodin. Good colour. Red fruits, cherries and haw dominate. Surprisingly full and rounded with a lovely supple succulence in spite of the modest vintage, underpinned by a distinct salinity. Beautifully balanced, displaying excellent linearity with a trace of varnish against dryish tannins towards its modest finish. Highly feminine.

2023 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny, courtesy of Sir Bob. Bright crimson. Intense flavours of cherries and ripe red fruits dominate with youthful verve and exuberance, yet expertly balanced with smooth refined tannins. Already ready to drink even at such infantile stage. Modest finish.

2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er, courtesy of Vic. Bright crimson, exuding a lovely perfumed fragrance to match the succulent warmth and freshness and lively intensity, just a tad narrow in breadth. Modest length.

2013 Domaine Jacques-Frédèric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuees, courtesy of Anthony. Evolved crimson. This wine opens with a distinct reductive funkiness in spite of the abundant red fruits, though the medium-full palate is wonderfully pure and fresh with layers of lithe density that convey a certain feminine elegance.

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses, courtesy of LF. Deeply coloured. Quite effusive in ripe raspberries, cherries and currants. Still quite full though its tannins are imperceptible at this stage, boasting rounded agility and supple succulence, turning a little assertive over time. Modest finish. May not even have peaked.