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Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 2007 1999 1982 Château Cos D’Estournel 2001, 1990 & 1988, Léoville Barton 2000, Léoville Las-Cases ’89, Ducru Beaucaillou 2000

June 21, 2022

A line-up of Bordeaux Deuxième Cru Classé at the Tanglin Club, Singapore, on 20 June 2022, predominantly aged 21 years or older. In spite of that, several of the wines are still surprisingly youthful. All are drinking well, proving that plenty of pleasure may be derived at this level without blowing silly money. Another noteworthy reminder from this tasting is that clarets really need plenty of time to be at their best, preferably at 30 years, especially those of so-called outstanding vintages. Many thanks to everyone for their generosity, especially to Jeremy and Kieron for organising and to Sir Bob for hosting.

2001 Château Cos D’Estournel. Deep crimson. Youthful nose of ripe plums, dark currants and haw. Considerably brighter with more red fruits after some aeration. Medium-full. Fleshy and highly supple with a sleek streamlined intensity that tapered with fine linearity and decent length. Still yet to reach full maturity.

1999 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, courtesy of Hiok. Opaque reddish brown, exuding an exuberant light fragrance of lifted rose petals. Medium weight. Softly contoured and slightly lean, the fruit having retreated along with melted tannins, coming across as somewhat distant with a dash of sweetness at its short finish.

2000 Château Léoville Barton, courtesy of Kieron. Impressive deep purple, imbued with a warm swathe of ripe black fruits and dark currants. Slightly assertive with understated velvety intensity and acidity. Well balanced and integrated, developing early secondary characters towards the end of dinner. Still far from maturity.

1989 Château Léoville Las-Cases, courtesy of Vernon. Deep garnet, opening with a refined distant glow of dark fruits and currants tinged with menthol and herbal elements. The palate is appropriately weighty with warm ripe fruit, beautifully rounded with an integral fullness that belies its understated intensity and structure, finishing with ease and confidence. At its best.

1988 Château Cos D’Estournel, courtesy of Barrie. Deep garnet with a crimson rim. Rather brooding with restraint on the nose, delivering an intense weighty palate structured with very finely-grained ferrous elements, imparting a deep austere intensity. Impeccably balanced in spite of its masculine proportions, revealing further layers of delicious dark fruits over time.

2007 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, courtesy of Jeremy. Deep purple. Attractive dark fruits on the nose, faintly delicious. Medium-full, imbued with excellent depth of darkish ripe fruit that exert very fine youthful intensity.

2000 Château Ducru Beaucaillou, courtesy of Pipin. Deep garnet. Still quite primal on the nose, suggesting an abundant depth of red fruits and dark plums with a hint of earth and bramble. Generously proportioned with smooth slick acidity, yielding fine supple intensity but this is still tight. Surprisingly masculine for Ducru.

1990 Château Cos D’Estournel, courtesy of Sir Bob. Reddish brown. Rather imposing and intense bouquet, giving the impression of a much younger wine which is further suggested by the deep vein of dark currants and black fruits on the fullish palate that seems unsettled with subtle verve and intensity, exerting superb lift. Contrary to what many would expect of a 1990 Second Growth, the Cos is still years away from maturity.

1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, courtesy of Sir Bob. Reddish brown. Mature Pauillac character with a hint of warm gravel, lifted with lithe agility. The palate is seamlessly open where the tannins have completely receded, leaving behind the distilled presence of mature fruit that is still amazingly fresh, perfectly balanced and proportioned within an indescribable lush feminine complex, mounting a delicious elegant blazing intensity as the evening wore on. A complete wine at its very best and likely to continue to hold.

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敖云 Ao Yun 2016, 2017, 2018

June 14, 2022

Within a short space of less than ten years since its inaugural vintage of 2013, the Chinese winery Ao Yun (敖云), backed by LVMH, has captured the attention of the oenology world’s cognoscenti. Farmed from four small plots of land situated more than 2000 metres high in the Yunnan Himalayas that feature very steep slopes and deep valleys, Ao Yun (literally meaning “above the clouds”) is essentially a cabernet blend crafted with a fastidious attitude towards precise viticulture and geological study. Each plot is subdivided into a multitude of subplots and, even within each subplot, different types of grapes may be grown according to the soil type. Since 2016, however, a small percentage of syrah has been added to the cabernet to enhance further dimension, a practice that was commonplace amongst the bordelais in the early twentieth century. I had the privilege of tasting three consecutive vintages with the estate’s director and winemaker Maxence Dulou across Zoom on 19 May 2022, organised by the good guys from Wine Clique Singapore. It seems Ao Yun has found its footing, appearing to progress from strength to strength with each successive vintage. Whether they justify their lofty premium remains debatable, for options are plenty at this price point.

2016 Ao Yun. Blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc, 4% syrah and 2% petit verdot aged in 32% new oak, the remainder from 1-year-old barriques. Deep garnet. Effusive in plummy fruit and currants with an urgent sense of freshness, promising a huge depth of glorious ripe fruit that is delivered on the rounded fleshy medium-full palate with fine intensity, underpinned by a dash of spice, licorice and austere ferrous elements. Weighty and well balanced. Very much like Saint- Julien in character.

2017 Ao Yun. Blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 4% syrah, 3% petit verdot and 2% merlot. Very deep purple. This is a restrained beauty, taking its time to reveal aromas of ripe raspberries, wild berries, mulberries, currants and ground pepper with a lovely lift. Rounded with a distinct minerally mid-body, giving way to more fruit and some eventual forest characters with vibrant sleek acidity that imparted exciting intensity and tension. Weighty with even linearity, culminating in a modest finish. Highly refined.

2018 Ao Yun. Blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 7% syrah and 4% petit verdot. Deep garnet. Restrained nose of raspberries and currants with a hint of wet gravel, very Bordeaux-like. The lower proportion of cabernet sauvignon has resulted in open warmer shades of red fruits and dark cherries of subdued intensity on the medium-full palate, seamlessly structured with refined sophisticated tannins from its greater proportion of merlot. Very elegantly balanced and confident. Already accessible even at this stage. Highly successful.

Château Palmer: 2004, 1995 & XIX

June 7, 2022

A mini-series of Château Palmer at Imperial Treasure Great World on 02 June 2022 that surprised with its uneven quality, proving that all the present hyped-up prices do not correlate with expectations.

Champagne Agrapart & Fils Terroirs Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs NV, courtesy of LF. Sharp crystalline lift with a sense of white smoke amid mild yeasty overtones, imbued with fine density of ripe yellow citrus that exert superb tension and sublime acidity. Highly exuberant throughout its length, finishing with a sweet teasing intensity. Excellent.

Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération #24, courtesy of LF. Luminous, exuding smooth yeasty tones with a suggestion of velvet. Laurent-Perrier’s high-toned signature is evident throughout, the fruit somewhat backward in favour of a bright dry supple intensity, structured with tight precision. Very classy.

2017 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet, courtesy of LF. This wine opens with cool icing and a hint of nutmeg, favouring a minerally density structured with chiseled definition. Took its time to unfold with lovely sleek intensity, more rounded and forward with layered white tones as it gelled together with superb harmony. This is classic Chassagne in every way.

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Château Palmer Historical XIXth Century Blend L20.06, courtesy of Sir Bob. A blend of 45% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 10% syrah. Deep purplish core, proffering a nose of dark currants sprinkled with occasional red fruit tinged with cordite. Medium-bodied. Soft, fleshy and seamlessly integrated but it lacks real weight and depth. More lifted over time with a gentle floral fragrance laced with a medicinal trace from the syrah component though it remained somewhat short and nondescript.

1995 Château Palmer, courtesy of Vic. Deep purplish crimson, opening with a restrained glow of mature claret. Medium-bodied. Highly integral and balanced, still reasonably fresh with a relaxed feminine charm but it doesn’t quite possess the wealth of detail and delicate tension of a great Palmer, a tad short at the finish as well.

2004 Château Palmer. Deep purplish core. Opens with that irresistible glow of a maturing claret, proffering an alluring lift of delicious currants, raspberries and blackberries. Medium-full. Softly contoured and fleshy, warmly balanced with a supple expanse of ripe succulent fruit and sublime acidity that impart exciting mouthfeel. Quite brilliant at this stage, perhaps still yet to peak.

May 2022: 1990 Château Léoville Las-Cases, 2017 Sandhi Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, 2000 Pol Roger cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, 2015 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin, 1997 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin, 2009 Baron Thenard Montrachet

May 31, 2022

2017 Sandhi Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 01 May 2022. Deep golden greenish. Fairly effusive, displaying good detail of delicate chalk and citrus that carried well onto the medium-bodied palate, impeccably proportioned with excellent precision and definition, evolving more minerally characters even as it finished with superb floral length. Would have been difficult to tell apart from a burgundy if blinded.

1990 Château Léoville Las-Cases, at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 01 May 2022. Deep crimson, exuding a pronounced earthy pungency on the nose that I found to be highly attractive. Wonderfully mellow, beautifully structured with soft rounded contours with melted tannins that have given way to lush layered textures, allowing its deep core of delicious red fruits and currants to shine with superb length and purity. Still remarkably fresh, vibrant and succulent. Outstanding.

2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 02 May 2022. Dull opaque tint, exuding sweet dark rosy tones and raspberries with a bit of bramble and earth. Medium-full. Has mellowed considerably on the palate compared with a previous encounter two years ago, well proportioned with warm ripe fruit laced with refined acidity. More recessed over time though more seamless as well without any hint of gruffness. Entering its drinking window but best to wait another year or two.

2018 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Jardin du Calvaire. Drunk 4-5 May 2022. Delicate floral essence on the nose. Well balanced with a lovely sleek intensity of fruit and refined acidity on the medium-full palate, giving way to a crystalline clarity tinged with a dash of salinity and cool icing. Developed some early complexity with further details of nutmeg, lemongrass and chamfered white tones that persisted with lovely mouthfeel. Showing better than a bottle tasted in 2020. Excellent.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 07 May 2022. This wine just gets better and better with each encounter, refreshingly vibrant with racy notes of nutmeg, pomelo and green fruits topped with lively acidity that gave way within an hour to rich textures of crème de la crème, yet still retaining its detail and precision. I’m now convinced that it’s better than the 2019.

2014 Château Batailley. Poured from magnum at Barrie’s clinic party, 07 May 2022. Bramble, briar and sandalwood on the nose. Full-bodied. Well-integrated with silky smooth tannins but lean, lacking true depth and layering.

2006 Château Puy-Razac. Poured from magnum at Barrie’s clinic party, 07 May 2022. Too soft and backward, shrouded with dusty overtones. Could do with more fruit.

2019 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 09 May 2022. Gleaming white chalky tones on the nose with floral overtones. The medium-full palate is layered with nutmeg and complex citrus, underpinned by sleek acidity that impart a focused intensity of fruit and vanillin whilst maintaining fine clarity, finishing well. Plenty of potential here.

2018 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Chambolle-Musigny, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 09 May 2022. Deeper shade of pinot, quietly confident on the nose with notes of dark berries, dark roses and a sprinkling of red fruits. Very well layered and structured with abundant ripe fruit that is beautifully integrated with sophisticated tannins and faultless acidity, displaying excellent typicité. Already drinking well but best to refrain from doing so for another 3-4 years.

1994 Château Léoville Las-Cases. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 11 May 2022. Still deeply coloured, glowing with mature hues of dark plums, cherries and rose petals. Medium-full, its ample fruit still in prime condition, structured with subdued sweet tannins that yielded supple detail with a hint of tobacco dust, iron filings and mocha, imbued with fresh exciting acidity. More aromatic as it fleshed out with greater succulence amid smooth creamy textures before mellowing considerably towards the end of dinner, developing a further subtle dash of menthol. Still possesses sufficient charm in spite of the vintage.

2016 DeMorgenzon Maestro Red. Popped and poured at Hillman 99 (Pasir Panjang), 14 May 2022. Dark. Capsicum, black fruits and ripe wild berries dominate with traces of licorice on the full palate, bordering on the exotic amidst its youthful intensity without being distinctive. Needs extended cellaring.

2014 Champagne Bollinger Grande Année at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Pale golden. Attractive nose of yeasty overtones and varnish. Excellent presence of green fruits, citrus and white tones, brightly lit with dry intensity on a base of understated flinty minerals, displaying superb ripeness and length with a hint of gunmetal at the finish. Drinking very well, on the brink of further complexity.

2018 Domaine Rapet Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Frétille 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Light golden. Good lift of distilled cool white tones laced with vanillin. Rounded with a dash of oily density, displaying excellent layering and integration, finishing with superb linearity, just a little short. Shows real sophistication. Sited just north of Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Sous Frétille 1er is truly an under-appreciated gem.

2019 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Light golden. Effusive bouquet of brioche, honeysuckle and baked apples. Well-layered with fine clarity, exuding a lovely gentle intensity with traces of nutmeg and wild fruit that conferred a hint of rusticity, finishing in a glorious blaze of white tones.

2018 Domaine Michel Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Darker shade of pinot. Sharply accentuated nose of preserved fruit and dried plums. Medium-full. Very good integration of warm ripe fruit and rounded acidity, almost velvety in texture with some sweetness in its refined tannins. Expertly crafted.

2019 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin La Perrière 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Purplish pinot tint. Perfumed bouquet of dark roses and cherries. Medium-full. Good extraction of fruit at optimal ripeness, covered in overtones of haw and varnish that yielded some glimpses of inner detail through its delicious tannins.

2017 Domaine Delagrange Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Slightly darker shade of pinot. Medium-bodied. Fairly open with fine intensity and acidity, structured with sweet tannins. Distinctly feminine.

1997 Château Tirecul-la-Gravière Cuvée Madame at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Tea-colored. Mature tones of honey and menthol. Medium-full. Concentrated and luscious, almost liquered in its smooth textured mouthfeel, still imbued with fine acidity as it finished with a medicinal dash.

Champagne Ruinart NV Brut, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Luminous. Alluring perfumed floral fragrance with a lovely lift, a stark contrast against the dry brazen intensity of yellow citrus on the palate, tinged with bitter lemon. Fleshed out with a rounded minerally glare. Drinking well.

2000 Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Dull golden. Lovely complexity of peaches amid yeasty overtones, displaying a wonderfully sumptuous palate of complex green fruits and sophisticated minerals that exert superb dry intensity and freshness within a sheen of very fine delicate bubbles. Absolutely delicious.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Pale golden. Distant tones of white incense and yeast. Structured crystalline quality with a certain lean dryness, offering good clarity though somewhat nondescript initially. Took its time to slowly flesh out with further notes of pomelo and bitter lemon, taking on a sterner demeanour. Dwarfed on this occasion by the Pol Roger.

2012 Domaine Pierre Damoy Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Classic pinot tint. This village monopole opens with extracted tones of dark cherries and rosy hues, still rather tight and tense on the abundant palate, softening after some time with darkish tones within a narrow spectrum. Slightly austere.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Volnay Santenots 1er at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Don’t let its duskiness and high-toned acidity put you off when freshly popped. After four hours of aeration, this wine becomes wonderfully open and effusive in delicious red fruits, still imbued with fabulous freshness and juicy succulence while its acidity is considerably more refined and better integrated though the finish is undeniably short. At full maturity but still has the legs to last.

2012 Domaine Forey Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots 1er, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Classic pinot tint. Restrained with rosy hues and raspberry tones. Medium-bodied. Structured with smooth tannins with a lovely glow of red fruits at just the right degree of presence, displaying refined acidity with fine balance and definition. Highly elegant.

20220530_210715.jpg2015 Domaine Arlaud Morey-Saint-Denis Les Millandes 1er, courtesy of Alvin at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Darkish. Well extracted and weighty with predominant red fruits and cherries. Still tight with refined intensity, yielding lovely inner detail. Very fine.

2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of Raymond at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Lovely pinot tint. Exudes an attractive rosy fragrance with an open gentle biting intensity within a frame of smooth tannins, showing excellent presence with superb balance and layering.

1997 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir K at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Pale pinot tint. Fully mature, still imbued with very good presence of satiny red fruits tinged with tangerines and minerally elements that confer dryish intensity with a bit of austerity. Impeccably proportioned and elegant.

2015 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Raymond at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Superb bouquet of glorious red fruits, cherries and raspberries. Wonderfully ripe and intense, richly layered with some early complexity, displaying lovely finesse and definition. Irresistible.

2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Bourgogne Blanc. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 21 May 2022. Pale. Subdued on the nose though the explosive palate boasts intense lime and yellow citrus imbued with a high-toned sublime acidity, revealing gravelly and ferrous detail with structured precision and delicate lift that lingered with lasting persistence. Far from maturity, yet irresistible.

2017 Domaine Francois Carillon Saint-Aubin Les Murgers Des Dents De Chien 1er, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 22 May 2022. Greenish hue. Effusive in green fruits, fig and fresh floral fragrance. Medium-full. Very good concentration of fruit, stuffed with tight chalky intensity. Fleshed out after an hour with exquisite white tones laced with a minty lift, turning a little more minerally with a cool crystalline glow as it proffered glimpses of inner detail. Highly refined.

2001 Domaine Dominique Laurent Bourgogne Blanc, courtesy of Mr Co at Praelum, 25 May 2022. Pale. Brightly lit with high-toned acidity, offering good clarity and definition but short.

2013 Clos Dubrueil, courtesy of Melvin at Praelum, 25 May 2022. Deep purple. Medium-full. Brightly lit with warm pebbly tones and bramble. Rather terse and unsettled with some discernible alcoholic heat in its wake.

2007 Château Mangot, courtesy of Melvin at Praelum, 25 May 2022. Still deeply coloured. Medium-full, displaying a velvety warmth that helped to offset certain discernible vegetal tones that imparted a tinge of austerity.

2009 Domaine Baron Thenard Montrachet Grand Cru at Wah Lok, 30 May 2022. Deep golden hue. Rather backward at first though a certain mature chalkiness, rye and distilled white tones are discernible, gradually opening up with further notes of vanilla and aged crème de la crème as its initial intensity on the palate gave way to more graceful elegance, fanning out with gentle layering and superb subtle acidity to an eventual open intensity of cool glacial tones, preserved orange peel and grapefruit interpolated with magnolia and exotic spices at its lingering finish. A superb beauty at its best.

2019 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Blanc, a glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 31 May 2022. Pale. Citrus, peaches and tropical fruits dominate on the nose and palate with subtle intensity amidst restrained white fruit and a cool minerally presence. Slightly more austere than the usual Puligny or Chassagne white. Drinking well.

Rose & Arrow Estate 2018

May 11, 2022

Rose & Arrow Estate is a collaborative effort between Mark Tarlov (who started Evening Lands) and Louis-Michel Comte Liger-Belair of the eponymous domaine in Vosne-Romanée that began only in 2012, looking to produce the best expression of Oregon pinot noir through a fastidious in-depth (literally!) study of the Basalt soils of the Willamette Valley by uncovering the best plots within plots. While they own or farm over 60 hectares of land there, less than 4 percent of the harvest goes into the prestigious Rose & Arrow cuvées. Each of these is site-specific and they tend to be derived from east-facing volcanic soils from the mid-slopes. The estate’s oenological practices take their cue from Burgundy; they even use the same coopers and barrels as those in Vosne-Romanée, which are flown over each year.

The notes below are based on a tasting conducted by Simon Littler, a partner of the estate, at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 April 2022. The wines impress with their purity and refinement, while there are sufficient differences in the restrained minerality between them for one to appreciate the singularity of each specific terroir. If that can be achieved in winemaking, then the very essence has been grasped (photo by Rose & Arrow Estate).

2018 Rose & Arrow Worden Hill Pinot Noir. Beautiful intense pinot tint. Rosy fragrance of red fruits. Medium-bodied, glowing with a clean structured presence, imbued with a trace of sweetness in its tannins. Rather feminine. Good balance. Very elegant. Doesn’t shout. From the sub-region of Dundee Hills, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Black Walnut Pinot Noir. Intense pinot tint. Restrained warm gravel hues. Medium-bodied. More minerally and layered, underpinned by red fruits and raspberries with fine acidity. Lovely ripeness. Good focus and detail. From the sub-region of Dundee Hills, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Red Dust Pinot Noir. Intense pinot tint. Tinge of persimmon on the nose. Medium-bodied. Softly contoured with a distinct feminine grace and elegance. Seamlessly integrated with good purity and understated acidity, finishing with lingering persistence. From the sub-region of Dundee Hills, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Yamhill Close Pinot Noir. Intense pinot tint. Shy. Medium-bodied. Highly supple with a fleshy warmth of predominant red fruits. Quite ample. Seamlessly integrated with a poised feminine charm. Elegant. From the sub-region of Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Highland Close Pinot Noir. Darker shade of pinot. Reticent on the nose though the palate is distinctly darker, imbued with ripe raspberries and dark cherries that yield supple definition with excellent tensile presence and refined intensity. Finished well. Very Vosne-like. From the sub-region of Chehalem Mountain, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Hopewell Hills Pinot Noir. Darker shade of pinot. Highly subtle perfumed lift of balsam. Medium-bodied, underpinned by a deeper vein of red fruit that teased with a focused fleeting intensity. Lovely purity. Good length. From the sub-region of Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Gathered Stones 1st Expression Pinot Noir. Shy rosy fragrance. Open with soft feminine characteristics that impart excellent fleeting verve with a tight focused intensity. Settled down with fine balance, more poised and backward, showing fine linearity with great purity. From the sub-region of Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Stonecreek 1st Expression. Intense deep purple. Restrained nose of currants, dark roses and black cherries. Medium-full. Exudes a delicious velvety warmth on a bed of lithe sexy tannins, seamlessly integrated with refined minerals and sleek acidity with a tinge of salinity throughout its length. Successfully combines lovely precision and subtle power with elegant ease. Superb. From the sub-region of Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon.

Saint-Émilion: 2016 Canon-la-Gaffelière, 2012 La Confession, 1997 Tertre Roteboeuf, 2000 La Gomerie, 2000 Pavie, 2004 Angelus

May 7, 2022

Some members of the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour officially re-convened at Shang Palace on 21 April 2022 after a long hiatus thanks to Covid-19. It was only right that we re-booted with a Saint-Émilion line-up, preceded by a promenade of whites.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er. Luminous golden hue. Early secondary characters of nutmeg, olives and citrus on the nose. Medium-bodied. Softly structured with excellent clarity though highly understated, just a lingering glowing intensity at the side before developing greater density with a sleek high-toned minerally presence.

Champagne Henri Giraud MV15 Ay Grand Cru Brut, courtesy of Russ. Sharp lift of olives, nutmeg and cool fruit. Lovely soft tactile presence with a very fine dry intensity, throwing up more cool ripe fruit whilst remaining rather understated, layered with flint and gunmetal notes.

2017 Aubert UV-SL Vineyard Chardonnay, courtesy of Kieron. Aged in 80% new French oak, this Sonoma Coast chardonnay produces an accentuated lift of refined créme de la créme and chalky tones. Medium-full. Rounded with cool sophistication with a distinct New World trace of sweetness that recalls longans. Highly poised and elegant.

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2016 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, courtesy of Melvin. Bright purple. Well-extracted with a forward presence of raspberries and mulberries on the nose whilst the palate is suitably anointed with a deep velvety presence of ripe black cherries. Richly layered and full, structured with superbly integrated tannins that offer dry inner detail. Superbly balanced and proportioned. Huge potential.

2012 Château La Confession, courtesy of Melvin. Dark in colour. Exudes an elegant lift of cool dark currants and ripe black fruits with an early plummy glow. Medium-bodied, the dominant merlot producing silky smooth tannins with understated intensity amid earthy tones and early cedary characters. Wonderfully balanced with well-defined inner detail. Drinking beautifully. Unexpectedly superb!

1997 Tertre Roteboeuf, courtesy of Marc. Opaque crimson hues, proffering seductive red fruits and sweet currants that exude a distilled delicious essence. Softly contoured with distinct maturity, yet lively and unbelievably fresh and vibrant, its wonderful balance made even more appreciable by tannins that have long melted. Superb.

2004 Château Angelus. Deep purple. Medium-full. Somewhat reductive? Well-extracted and generously proportioned but still relatively tight, imbued with an impressive depth of ripe red fruits, dark plums, blackberries and currants with a sprinkling of graphite minerals. Well balanced. May need another decade or two to ease up with secondary characteristics.

2000 Château Pavie, courtesy of Russ. Still very dark. Eminently darkish in its glow of warm black fruits and black currants. Medium-full. Rounded with a vast palate of  ripe raspberries and mulberries still laced with a dash of vanillin. Remarkably youthful in spite of its twenty-two years, still relatively tight with intense svelte tannins. Unashamedly modern in style but it works for Pavie.

2000 Château La Gomerie, courtesy of Kieron. Deep purple. Medium-bodied. Surprisingly restrained in spite of its ample top-drawer fruit set within rounded contours of sexy lithe tannins that impart open textures. Highly understated yet integral. On par with the legendary 1998.

April 2022: 2005 Louis Remy Latricières, 2019 Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 2010 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot, 2001 Gazin, 2000 Sociando-Mallet, 2005 Calon Segur, 1990 Gruaud Larose…

April 30, 2022

2019 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 02 Apr 2022. Deep inky purple. Forward in raspberries, black currants and dark cherries with a tinge of mocha. Wonderfully ripe. Impeccably balanced and proportioned, developing more of cranberries and tangerine extract as it fanned out with gentle biting intensity, displaying fine sophistication. Kept evolving throughout the evening, finally revealing tonal characters of heated wet stones, rye and spice box with a dash of savouriness. A real steal.

2005 Domaine Louis Remy Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Vic at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 02 Apr 2022. Evolved light pinot tint. Delicate lift of haw and cherries with a mesmerizing perfumed fragrance, seducing the senses with sensual complexity. Imbued with mature tones on the medium-bodied palate, evoking mostly tangerines, plums and peaches set slightly backward, its relative reticence made up for by highly-refined acidity and beautifully rounded tannins. Demure finish. Distinctly feminine. At its best.

2019 Maison Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Popped and poured at home, 06 Apr 2022. Greenish hue. Effusive nose of fig, green fruits and clear citrus. Shows a certain controlled liveliness that renders the palate highly elegant, enhanced by its restrained acidity and smooth gentle creaminess. A real steal, as always.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Pommard Les Rugiens 1er. Popped and poured at Graft8, 08 Apr 2022. Darker shade of pinot. Lovely nose of dark roses, cherries and raspberries. Well extracted with ample presence, showing good refinement with some dryish youthful intensity. More rounded and fleshy over time, almost velvety, exuding a deep rosy fragrance amidst ferrous shades with understated tannins. Very fine.

2014 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches. Popped and poured over dimsum lunch at Wah Lok, 09 Apr 2022. Pale. Hint of durians and custard amid the cool glow of clear citrus. Creamy smooth, teasing the palate with a delicate fleeting presence enhanced by unobtrusive acidity that proffered superb clarity, eventually settling with a subtle depth of earthy elements. Quite excellent.

2012 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir West Ridge Sonoma Coast, courtesy of Russ at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Good colour. Resolutely shut on the nose, though the palate is imbued with a quiet intensity of ripe raspberries and cherries that exude lovely glow. Very cleanly structured.

2005 Château Calon Segur. Popped and poured at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Deep purple. Open classic glow of dark currants and raspberries. Medium-bodied. Very smoothly integrated with early secondary characters of soy, herbal elements and dried mushrooms. Fleshy, vibrant and unpretentious. Superbly balanced and proportioned.

2015 Peter Michael Les Pavots, courtesy of Kieron at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. This wine is impressively dark in colour and tone with a restrained warmth. The palate is surprisingly rounded and fleshy in spite of its youth, loaded with delicious dark cherries and ripe wild berries that leave a faint trail of rosy fragrance (likely from the 18% cabernet franc within the Bordeaux blend), tinged with a dash of capsicum and enamel that fail to detract from its deep lush velvety intensity.

2006 Ramey Wine Cellars Larkmead Vineyard, courtesy of Melvin at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Displaying an evolved red, this wine is well-extracted with a fine presence of ripe wild berries and dark currants that impart a tingling spicy intensity on the fullish palate.

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2017 Laurent Ponsot Meursault-Blagny Cuvée de Myosotis 1er, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022. Greenish golden. Effusive in citrus and wild white flowers on the nose (some would say reductive). Medium-bodied. Fans out with a silky smooth oily density, yielding fine delicate detail with understated depth and acidity tinged with a distant chalky presence, eventually fleshing out with cool clean tones. Laurent Ponsot’s new line (since 2015) appears to draw polarising opinions but I do like the style.

2010 Domaine Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022. Darkish pinot tint. Excellent ripe tones of dark plums and red currants amid an early hint of secondary  tangerines. The palate is imbued with a wonderful purity of fruit, displaying lovely fullness with dark rosy hues marked by sleek acidity that teased with a fleeting intensity, eventually settling with lifted open supple textures. Louis Jadot is always very correct with their reds. Far better than the usual Clos Vougeot. Superb.

2001 Château Gazin. From the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Dark plummy red with a crimson rim, displaying evolved tertiary characters with a lovely complex of pungent earthiness, plums and tangerines. Medium-full. Beautifully nuanced with soft fleshy contours amid a distinct note of soy, structured with smooth silky tannins that yield fine detail with sweet subtle intensity. Excellent.

2019 Schloss Lieser-Thomas Haag Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022 while having a conversation with Grant Ashton, founder and C.E.O, at our table. Luminous gold, exuding mild characters of petroleum vapor. Lovely warm presence on the cleanly detailed medium-bodied palate that hinted at durians and tropical fruits with a controlled intensity, laced with just the right level of sweetness.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet. Popped and poured at Jade Palace, 15 Apr 2022. Still deep garnet, proffering lifted notes of capsicum, wild mushrooms and dry herbaceous elements amid distant dark rosy hues that carried well onto the medium-full palate. Softly contoured with cultured tannins that yield lovely supple density with understated sweet dark currants. Excellent. This is the best example of Sociando-Mallet that I’ve had regardless of vintage and the reason why it clearly belongs within the league of classified growths.

2020 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz. Drunk over two days, 18-19 Apr 2022. Generous in ripe raspberries, blueberries and currants. Slightly forward but one doesn’t mind when the fruit is so wonderfully fresh and delicious and vibrant with cool rounded tannins, laced with just a dash of spice and licorice. A supermarket wine, but well made.

2018 Inglenook Blancaneaux, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Light greenish hue. Some reticence is evident, rather coiled with an understated oily core of restrained chalkiness and white fruits in spite of its outer gleaming tone. More relaxed and backward after some time, turning a little brightish before smoothening out with even tone. A blend of marsanne and roussanne varietals most unusually from Napa, made by Philippe Bascaules of Château Margaux.

20220423_140730.jpg2018 Nicolas Jay Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Apr 2022. Purplish. Somewhat muted on the nose though the palate is ample in dark fruits, open with supple intensity amid traces of vanillin and crème as it gained tighter intensity with a rich rounded rosy fragrance tinged with a bit of briar.

1990 Château Gruaud Larose, courtesy of Mr S Kannan at his residence on 25 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Deep crimson. Fairly effusive in mature ripe plummy tones with a strong note of capsicum, leading to a wonderful lift of complex dark tones on the fleshy palate, framed by supple sexy tannins that eventually morphed into a lovely seamless entity with excellent depth of fruit. At its best and will hold for many more years.

1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, decanted on-site at Mr S Kannan’s residence, 25 Apr 2022. Deep purplish core. Delicious bouquet of blueberries, dark plums and currants. Medium-full. Still imbued with very fine acidity with a slick oily density, gently cushioned with warm ripe fruit at optimal maturity with soft cedary characters. Distinctly feminine. At its prime.

2001 Domaine J Coudray-Bizot Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Mr S Kannan at his residence on 25 Apr 2022. Mature. Generous bouquet of cherries and dark roses, though slightly reductive. Rounded with impressively silky smooth satiny textures on a ripe raspberry floor, stroking the palate with fine gentle intensity as it turned more structured and masculine over time without being overwhelming.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, poured ad lib courtesy of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 Apr 2022. Lovely golden hue. Eminently reductive with a profusion of pungent earthiness amid brilliant chalky golden tones. Refreshingly open with a dry citrusy intensity, painting the palate in bold strokes of pomelo and bitter lemon with lovely precision. Drinking beautifully.

2018 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Buisson Renard, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 Apr 2022. Subtle sweet tropical fruits of soursop, custard and pineapples on the nose and palate, tightly focused with a laidback lean clarity and cutting acidity, settling down with rounded recessed tones.

2013 Château Haut-Batailley, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 Apr 2022. Raspberries and mulberries dominate with dusty overtones. Medium-bodied. Fleshy but rather backwards with dryish rustic tones. A little more earthy after some coaxing, along with some mild cedary notes.

1997 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet, 1993 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, 1994 Armand Rousseau Charm-Chambertin, 1979 Domaine Louis Trapet Chambertin, 1994 Williams Selyem Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2008 Hudelot Nöellat Romanée-St-Vivant

April 22, 2022

When you’re joined by Grant Ashton, founder and C.E.O. of 67 Pall Mall (of which its Singapore branch is now the hottest dining establishment) for dinner, you’re more than happy to push the boat out. The theme at Imperial Treasure Great World on 20 April 2022 was burgundy Grand Cru. In spite of that, an imposter was cast in the line-up, but who would ever turn down a pre-1998 Williams Selyem? The food was excellent and the wines were singing. Many thanks, gentlemen.

20220420_223504.jpg2008 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sir K. Delicate tones of fig and clear citrus with a floral lift. Still rather tightly coiled at first with a dry intensity beneath a sheen very finely graded bubbles, gradually opening up with a bit of yeasty pungency as it fleshed out with cool fragrance and lovely length, evoking a sense of white smoke in its wake. Not quite as exuberant as it was when this vintage was first released a few years ago, but still highly pleasurable.

2013 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Vic. Pale. There is a hint of durian in its cool minty lift as it teased the senses, underscored by fine precision and understated tension on the clear palate. Burst into life with exciting intensity and lively acidity after forty minutes, developing more body and oily presence amid overtones of jackfruit and other exotic fruit. Drinking well.

1997 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Light luminosity. There is a predominance of pomelo and bitter lemon on the nose that contrasted beautifully against the chamfered layers of restrained chalky white tones on the palate that offered lovely clarity and transparency. Still remarkably fresh, laced with sophisticated acidity throughout its superb length. Wonderfully poised with regal confidence.

1979 Domaine Louis Trapet Pére et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Pale brownish red. Utterly pungent (really!) though the open palate is remarkably clean and fleshy with plummy tones, still imbued with fine acidity and surprising detail in spite of its distinct maturity. Evolved quite rapidly in the glass as it smoothened out with excellent refinement before its imminent retirement.

2002 Vincent Girardin Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Grant. Deeper note of crimson. Open with a fleshy presence of red plums and currants. Highly supple but understated, morphing into a superb seamless entity with engaging charm as it snapped into sharper focus with a trace of salinity. The vines of this vintage really speaks to you.

2010 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Deep ruby. Quiet nose. Open and fleshy with a placid suppleness, very evenly proportioned with a lovely expanse of cool red fruits that yield fine definition, just a little titillating but it really doesn’t call attention to itself. Surprisingly feminine, given Pierre Damoy’s tendency for higher extraction.

2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint, proffering a classic bouquet of plummy tones and tangerines that led to a juicy succulence of cool red fruits, wonderfully balanced with real depth and sophistication. Very correct in every way. Very classy.

1994 Williams Selyem Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Evolved crimson. Restrained presence of mature red fruits and haw that impart quite a gentle velvety depth with a characteristic dash of menthol and eucalyptus that betrayed its origin. Slightly bold in layering, still fresh and lively.

1994 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Classic pinot tint. Quiet on the nose though there is a fine intense rasping presence of darker shades of red fruits and currants on the supple medium-full palate. Fresh and slightly minty, beautifully balanced with a faint understated minerally mid-body. Caught at its best.

1993 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep crimson. Unusually earthy and pungent with a hint of tangerines. Generously layered with fruit that is still remarkably fresh and youthful. Cleanly structured with superb precision, evolving with supple velvety intensity and delicious succulence.

2008 Domaine Hudelot Nöellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Very fine pinot tint. Ample in haw and red fruits on the nose and palate. Openly supple, subtly layered with lovely detail amid early secondary characteristics. Very beautifully nuanced and integral. A complete wine.

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Mar 2022: 2019 PYCM St-Aubin Les Banc, 2012 Philippe Livera Gev-Cham Clos Village, 2006 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet MdL, 2019 Vincent Bouzereau Meursault…

April 14, 2022

2019 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthière. Tasted 2-3 Mar 2022. Pale golden. Delicate intensity of clear citrus, green fruits and melons supported by sleek acidity and well-integrated ferrous elements. Rounded with superb tensile presence. Great potential. Deserves proper ageing.

2014 Francoise Chauvenet Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge. Popped and poured from the list of The Tavern, 04 Mar 2022. Light rosy hues against a darker medium-full palate of blueberries, dark cherries and cedar, displaying rounded contours and well-managed tannins with a rustic presence. Developed further density of floral characters and smoked meat with a sweet velvety intensity before shedding its fat, attaining a classic pinot poise with fine definition.

2019 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Les Banc. From the list of 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 05 Mar 2022. Pale greenish. Effusive in morning dew and green citrus, displaying an intense reductive character with gleaming clarity and structured intensity. Superbly refined as it settled down with a delicate dry chiseled quality.

2012 Domaine Philippe Livera Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village. From the list of 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 05 Mar 2022. Deep crimson. Beautifully integrated and balanced, deeply inviting. Imbued with an abundance of dark plummy fruit laced with sleek understated acidity, revealing darkish inner detail as it traversed the palate with superb length and linearity to a finish marked by early secondary characters of cedar and plums. Excellent, really.

2019 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles-Vignes. Popped and poured at Liang Kee, 06 Mar 2022. Pale. Effusive sheen of vanillin with full chromatic white tones. Silky smooth. Developed more of intense yellow citrus and tropical fruits with a certain stoniness before opening up with fine inner detail amid an understated sweet intensity.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet. Decanted at home, 08 Mar 2022. Dark purple. Raspberries, distant red fruits and dark currants dominate amid strong overtones of capsicum, bramble and woody elements. Medium-full. Fairly rounded, laced with well-defined acidity on a base of ferrous minerals that lent a distinct austerity to the palate, fleshing out only to a certain extent with a glimpse of sweet wild rose petals without going any further. Frustrating, given the vintage’s quality.

2018 Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz, a carafé from the list of restaurant Claudine, 10 Mar 2022. Impenetrable deep garnet, proffering a dense bouquet of cool black fruits and dark currants that’s quite typical of Clare Valley shiraz. Opened up a little with a lovely biting intensity amid glowing tones of mocha, toffee and savoury roast, rounding off with a minty lift.

2018 Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay, at the Singapore Airlines Krisflyer Lounge, Changi T3, on 11 Mar 2022. Effusive in peaches and fig with a smooth chalkiness. Medium-bodied. Distinctly minerally, imbued with some nutmeg. Fine clarity. Easy finish.

Champagne Jacquart Mosaïque Brut NV at the Singapore Airlines Krisflyer Lounge, Changi T3, on 11 Mar 2022. Clear and yellow citrus dominate with good presence, its very fine bubbles caressing the palate with a smooth dryness that tapered with fine linearity to a gentle flinty finish.

2016 Lyeth Sonoma County Red Wine at the Singapore Airlines Krisflyer Lounge, Changi T3, on 11 Mar 2022. Muted dark currants tinged with earth amid a dash of spice, structured with soft understated tannins imbued with discernible vanillin. A true merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend, but undistinguished.

2020 Schreckbichl Colterenzio Pinot Nero, from the list of Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill, London, on 13 Mar 2022. Fairly effusive in rosy hues. Softly contoured with very good presence of red fruits, cherries and rose petals. Has a certain concentrated depth and youthful intensity. Does its job.

Crémant de Bourgogne Veuve Ambal Grande Cuvée Brut NV, from the list of Rules restaurant, London, 15 Mar 2022. Dull golden. Excellent dry presence. Rather full, layered with complex citrus and fig amid mild yeasty undertones. Distinctly more pungent on the nose over time, developing further notes of grapefruit on the palate. Drinking well.

2014 Rugra Scajeta Monferrato Rossi, from the list of restaurant Majenta, London, on 16 Mar 2022. Predominant red fruits and mandarins with a bright forward presence. Fleshed out with soft supple textures amid a growing understated sweet intensity, imbued with gentle delicious plummy tones with charred elements.

2016 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, London, on 17 Mar 2022. Darkish. Weighty in dark fruits and currants. Well-extracted with controlled intensity. Considerably more dryish over time, displaying good structure and precision. Delicious, but requires further cellaring.

2019 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Chambrees, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Mar 2022. Greenish hue with muted green tones and fig on the nose though there is an excellent expanse of green fruits and citrus on the palate, structured with tight intensity at first before settling down with more open detail, supported by a subdued chalkiness. Deserves more time to sort itself out.

2015 Saffron Fields Vineyard Pinot Noir, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Mar 2022. Deep crimson. Resolutely shut on the nose. The busy medium-full palate is well extracted with rounded intensity, slightly stern with dominant darkish tones that refused to open up. Doesn’t quite hit the mark for pinot noir.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Aired in bottle for three hours prior to dinner at Ka Soh, 27 Mar 2022. Light greenish hue. Morning dew and wet grassy tones dominate on the nose. The palate is imbued with a broad expanse of fruit with overtones of nutmeg, dense minerally elements and white pepper that opened with good clarity before tightening up again with a controlled intensity, revealing some inner detail with lovely precision as it turned slightly chalkier and creamier. Deserves further cellaring.

2017 Château de Chamirey Mercurey La Mission 1er, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Poured from magnum. Greenish hue. Effusive in gentle floral tones, light green fruits and citrus. Medium-full. Softly contoured, imbued with characters of preserved plums and nutmeg that convey a warm velvety sweetness with fine detail and understated structure.

2005 Château Gazin, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Deep garnet. Effusive glow of mature dark plums and currants. Open, supple textures of cool dark fruits on an understated earthy base that exert exciting acidity, imparting lovely mouthfeel and length. Highly refined and elegant.

2019 Domaine Vincent Bouzereau Meursault at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Pale greenish. This wine opens with delicate white tones and cool icing, teasing with further notes of tropical fruits as it evolved a rounded fullness with gentle depth. Developed an excellent dry presence over time, the palate basking in a long unhurried glowing finish that stretches forever. A real steal.

2006 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Deep golden, exuding a dry laid-back chalkiness with mature autumnal characters, structured with placid white tones and understated acidity that shone with cool regal elegance.

2014 Haut-Brion Blanc & 1999 Haut-Brion, 2014 Louis Jadot Musigny Grand Cru

April 6, 2022

These wines are courtesy of my wonderful hosts in Sentosa island on the evening of 28 March 2022, who also laid on an array of homecooked tempura that easily rivals those Michelin-starred establishments in town. Every dinner there is always a memorable event – a perfect fusion of 色 (colour), 香 (aroma), 味 (flavour) – and this is no exception. Many thanks!!

2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé. Deeply colored. Dense aromas of apricot, citrus and mandarins tinged with orange peel, flooding the palate with excellent concentration of fruit that exert sweet supple intensity, supported by charred elements that added further dimension.

20220328_194651.jpg2014 Château Haut-Brion Blanc. Light golden. Effusive in sleek white floral tones still laced with appreciable vanillin and distant overtones of paraffin. The palate displays a lovely tension from the sublime acidity exerted by the concentration of dense citrus, wonderfully fresh and delicate in its teasing intensity, eventually opening up to reveal fine clarity and early depth. Utterly seamless and understated in structure. Undoubtedly youthful but it does everything right, beautifully poised and elegant with a wonderful perfumed lift. Huge potential ahead. Extremely rare, this is the most sought-after Bordeaux dry white. Only 450-650 cases annually.

1999 Château Haut-Brion. Deep garnet with a bare rim of crimson. Most impressive right from the outset, proffering a superb bouquet of red currants, dark plums and mandarins, the latter an unique hallmark of this estate. The medium-full palate is plush and velvety, beautifully integrated with characters of soy and deep plummy tones caught at optimal ripeness and maturity, underscored by superb acidity that left a lasting impression. Superb by any standard. Probably the best 1999 Haut-Brion that I’ve had.

2014 Domaine Louis Jadot Musigny Grand Cru. Classic pinot tint, exuding a soft feminine glow of rose petals on the nose, amply delivered by a sizzling abundance of ripe red fruits currants on the medium-full palate imbued with sublime acidity and superb purity of fruit. Remarkably cool and elegant, somewhat understated in intensity probably from the contribution of subdued ferrous minerals within that developed further with characters of charred saline elements, glowing with open supple textures. Outstanding.

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