1990 Ch Rauzan-Segla

For lovers of Japanese fine-dining in Singapore, and especially fans of chef Lawrence Chia, formerly of Kome at Keppel Club, I am pleased to report that Lawrence is back in business at his new restaurant Hinoki at China Square, and that he hasn’t lost any of his magic.

On an evening where we gulped down, literally, glass after glass of excellent sake, we found space as well for some Burgundy and Bordeaux. First was a 2004 Mischief & Mayhem Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, bought over the weekend at Denise’s clearance sale at Turf City. I’ve always eyed this label with some suspicion: what can a negociant house hope to achieve with such a name?  If it’d hoped to stoke up one’s curiosity, it succeeded, for I reckoned SGD75 wouldn’t be too much of a loss should it turned out poorly. But who has ever had a bad Corton-Charlemagne? Popped and poured, displaying a dull golden hue. It came across quite well on the nose, appropriately weighty with notes of citrus and cashews, opening up rapidly with lifted aromas of lychees and other tropical fruits emerging as it warmed up in the glass, topped by a layer of caramel. Medium-bodied, lively and well-balanced, though definitely not in the same league as Bonneau du Martray, lacking in opulence, but it managed to develop a smooth, creamy and rounded finish. Money well spent.

The 1990 Ch Rauzan-Segla (courtesy of Hiok) that followed had been double-decanted and aired further in bottle, showing an evolved red. Very open, exuding a powerful bouquet of herbal menthol that hinted at some voluptuousness. Gentle on the entry, soft and rounded in spite of its density and concentration, mature with notes of cinnamon and old leather laced with a tinge of sweetness, perfectly harmonious, eventually settling into a homogenous complex wine layered with fine minerality. I have a feeling it hasn’t actually peaked. Excellent, though not quite quintessential of that commune.