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Notes in brief (Nov 2012): 2012 Cloudy Bay

December 2, 2012

2000 Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale “Les Chetillons”, popped at Otto Ristorante, 14 Nov 2012. I’m halfway through half a case, and it gets better and better each time. Rich, with a dominance of burnt toast, a hint of smoke, malt and some yeasty undertones that’s simply begging to be cut right through by the sweet limey citrus and crystalline minerality, very lively at the sides,  highly refreshing. In fact, there’s so much going on that it almost overwhelmed the palate. If only the bubbles were finer, but that is nit-picking at a wine that’s almost complete. Excellent.

2006 Domaine et Selection Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru, a half-bottle off the wine list of Iggy’s, 16 Nov 2012. Popped and poured. Rather reticent at first with some chilly minerality. However, after warming up to the right temperature, it opened up quite nicely with notes of almonds, walnuts with some cream and caramel, supported by stony minerality, lively at the edges. Could do with greater layering and fullness for a Grand Cru, but at SGD59, I don’t suppose one could really ask for more.

2012 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, at Wall St Bistro, 21 Nov 2012. Popped and poured, representing the first time that I’ve returned to this estate after an absence of many many years, largely in part due to a perceived drop in quality, an opinion shared by many oenophiles. But at the current price of SGD40 nett, I can’t see how things can go wrong, and I was right. Generous notes of white flowers, sweet pomelo, citrus, tropical fruits and kiwi fruit dominate the nose and palate with subdued minerality and understated acidity, rounded and well-balanced with a fair bit of complexity, finishing with a hint of apricot. A wine that comes across quite naturally without appearing to try too hard. Quite lovely, I must say, and I think I’ll be getting more.

Charles Hiedsieck Reserve Brut NV, at Changi Airport Silver Kris Lounge, T3, 23 Nov 2012. From the remaining bit at the bottom of a well-aired bottle. Surprisingly aromatic with a highly attractive oxidised note of malt, yeast, tropical fruits and yellow citrus with very fine non-abrasive bubbles, well balanced against the controlled minerality. Good stuff.

2010 Lupe-Cholet Chablis, at Changi Airport Silver Kris Lounge, T3, 23 Nov 2012. Rather lightweight with superficial overtones of cream and vanilla, served too warm. Not good.

Henriot Souverain NV, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ616 to Osaka, 23 Nov 2012. Quite generous with notes of citrus, lime and toast but unfortunately, the balance isn’t quite there, the wine veering on the dry side. Unresolved and almost harsh on the mid-palate.

2008 Ch Preuillac, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ616 to Osaka, 23 Nov 2012. This replaced a 2008 Ch La Garde that was promised in the menu. Surprisingly good for a Medoc, offering notes of dark currants, blueberries and violets, quite open and linear on the palate with good concentration and balance and even a hint of complexity without any leafiness. Very agreeable indeed.

2010 Christophe Cordier Macon-Charnay VV, at the JAL Sakura Lounge of Kansai International Airport, 28 Nov 2012. Dry with stony minerality, rather firm and linear. Carries good weight and decent concentration, but I prefer the fruit to be more forward in the absence of real complexity.

2010 Joseph Drouhin Saint-Veran, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ619, 28 Nov 2012. Medium-bodied with a bright stony minerality, vanilla and cream. Good presence, lively, but somewhat unresolved on the mid-palate.

2010 Marchesi di Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ619, 28 Nov 2012. Slightly heavier but open. Generous in red and dark fruits, camphor and medicinal spice. Good presence. Attractive.

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