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1983 Lynch Bages, 2002 Zind Humbrecht Goldert

December 30, 2013

Lovely 1983 Lynch-BagesThese notes came from an excellent off-line meet-up with Julian Teoh, renowned food and wine critic and founder of the Alsace Society, Singapore, at La Barca, 20 Nov 2013, which I thought would be an occasion as good as any to pop my last bottle of the 1983 Ch Lynch-Bages, which was decanted on-site for 30-45 minutes prior to serving. What a phenomenal wine this turned out to be. Though obviously fully mature, the wine still radiated a lovely ruby glow that gave no hint at all of its 30 years while notes of rose petals and cherries of remarkable purity dominate initially, yet retaining excellent weight without any trace of hollowness. Any fear of it fading with prolonged aeration proved to be unfounded as it grew in weight and intensity over time, exuding layer upon layer of tertiary characteristics, glowing with utter complexity throughout the evening that typifies Bordeaux with just a dash of mint at its lengthy finish. 20131120_211954One might have easily mistaken it for an aged Burgundy if blinded if not for its Pauillac signature of snuff, dried mushrooms and tea leaves, still intact after all these years. Superb.

The 2002 Zind Humbrecht Goldert (courtesy Julian) was just as glorious in its own way. Popped and poured after a brief period of aeration, this luminous golden liquid exuded notes of complex citrus, fig, nectarine and white flowers from the first pour, the lively acidity imparting a sense of freshness and excitement. It settled down after the initial euphoria with a nod towards emerging caramel and apricot before picking up in intensity again, producing a kaleidoscope of tropical fruit flavours and brilliant nectar underscored by a gentle steeliness from the graphite minerality, resembling in part, a spatlese, which is, perhaps, not all that suprising given that it is, after all, a gewurstraminer. I must admit my experience with Alsace is severely limited, but this tasting experience will certainly point me in that direction. Wonderful.

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