1995 Dom Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny, 2001 J-Claude Ramonet Batard-Montrachet, 1975 Cheval Blanc, 1994 Mouton Rothschild

For reasons best known to Dr Ooi himself, the usual suspects were called to dinner on 23rd February 2017 at Yan, National Gallery Singapore, sponsored by the man himself. Naturally, in the face of such unconditional generosity, we were eager to reciprocate in kind with great wines. A theme of Matured Wines (arbitrarily defined as greater than 20 years for reds and 10 years for whites) was set to match the delectable cuisine while Mr Shek, the restaurant manager, ensured that the big round table in the spacious private room was overflowing with top-notch stemware and that our every need was taken care of by his attentive staff.

1995 Krug (courtesy of Li Fern). Roasted cashews, almonds, clear citrus and toast dominate on the nose, searing the palate with this estate’s signature dry intensity, matched by broad chalky minerals and acidity that is still fresh and vibrant, finishing with bitter lemon and pomelo.

2004 Domaine Paul Aine Jaboulet Le Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc. Dull golden, somewhat underwhelming on this occasion where the palate features receding tones of aged tangerines and chalky minerals with overtones of rye, icing and stern ferrous elements, slightly better over time as more acidity emerged along with faint traces of apricot. Another bottle, popped and poured at Ka Soh on 25 Feb 2017, from the same lot tasted fresher, lively with very good concentration and layering with a bit of laid-back feel from the Rhone white varietals of marsanne and roussanne.

2000 Domaine Louis Jadot Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru (courtesy of KG). Gentle restrained bouquet of white flowers and light resin, medium-bodied with a subdued feel, somewhat underwhelming though it gained some weight over time, fleshing out with further notes of balsam but still short at the finish. Unlikely to improve further.

1991 Domaine Paul Aine Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert Crozes Hermitage. Inviting bouquet of rose petals, exuding a dark lovely fragrance, well-integrated, displaying good acidity and definition with overtones of paraffin, growing in intensity over time. At its best.

Magnum against double magnum

1975 Ch Cheval Blanc, poured from double magnum, a bottle procured by Dr Ngoi directly from the chateau itself. It is rare (for me, at least), to be treated to an excess of mature Cheval Blanc without having to pay for it (we couldn’t even finish the bottle…?!). Dark dirty red, earthy with some mild pungency amidst mature red fruits, medium-bodied, still displaying great acidity and good concentration against a backdrop of tea leaves and dryish textures, eventually developing a glorious glow with mild overtones of tobacco, chocolate, old leather and gentle graphite elements, becoming quite sublime, holding well all the way till the end of the evening. Highly consistent with a standard bottle tasted ex-cellars at Chateau Cheval Blanc itself in September 2016 (see post), though that was slightly lighter and more feminine with red fruits that appear to be more evolved. Absolutely superb.

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru, poured from magnum (courtesy of Li Fern). The most famous producer of this exalted plot has lived up to expectations here, producing a wine with a captivating firm bouquet of mature red fruits and rose petals that displayed great balance, proportion and precision, highly subtle in layering and structure with further complexity and camphor pervading through the layers, finishing very well with lingering acidity.

1994 Ch Mouton Rothschild (courtesy of MH). Lifted notes of earth and dark plums fill the nose with enticing aromas, medium-bodied, its lively acidity imparting a high aquiline tone that combined well with the generous spread of dark fruits, blueberries and saline minerals amidst the classic dryish textures of Pauillac. Like Ch Haut-Brion of the same vintage, this wine is severely under-rated. Excellent.

2001 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru (courtesy of Vic). Like all Ramonets, this superb wine just downslope of Montrachet possesses a distinctive aged feel of complex citrus, rye, light grassy elements and dense minerals further enhanced by an attractive earthy pungency, medium-bodied, mellowed with subdued intensity and receding acidity that adds immeasurably to its overall finesse, an elegant demure beauty that doesn’t call attention to itself. Outstanding.

1991 Three Rivers Dry Grown Shiraz (courtesy of Hsiang Sui). Deep bouquet of dense red fruits, dark berries, licorice and enamel that hinted at immense power. But it turned out to be surprisingly open and relatively mellow on the palate with further notes of cocoa, ember and smoked meat, distinctly medium-bodied, displaying good integration and balance. A great privilege to have had the chance to taste this Chris Ringland cult classic that can no longer be found.

1996 Ch D’Yquem (courtesy of Sanjay). Rich, luscious, glowing with great luminosity on the palate where notes of honey and apricot dominate with great balance and precision, aided by great acidity. Still very fresh and alluring. Excellent.

Thank you once again, Dr Ooi, for your generosity and to everyone for their magnificent contributions.