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2014: Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet & Chassagne-Montrachet

April 2, 2017

These are notes from a small gathering at Famous Kitchen where CW was keen to show off the stunning burgundy whites of 2014 and they certainly lived up to expectations: exceptional balance between stunning fruit complexity and sublime minerality with gorgeous acidity and depth to last the distance. And when they are made by the top producers without costing an arm and a leg, you know you simply can’t go wrong. For the uninitiated, I can certainly attest that Famous Kitchen is a superb venue for wine and food lovers: excellent service, great food, BYO, excellent stemware and friendly on your wallet. Worth the long drive to Sembawang.

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2000 Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée Speciale Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs (courtesy of Te Shan). Nutty with deep toasty notes and yeasty overtones on the nose. Very fine bubbles on the palate where green apples, pear, pomelo and dense citrus dominate with good complexity supported by stony minerals, not too dry, turning slightly stern at its ferrous finish. I have gone through many bottles of this same wine over the past 6 years, seemingly going from strength to strength with each tasting.

2014 Domaine de Villaine Saint-Aubin Les Perrières 1er. Lovely gentle floral lift of light citrus and icing, stuffed with good concentration of delicate white fruits and aged minerals that resonate with a mild resinous quality. At EUR 35, this is unbelievably superb value.

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2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er. Distinctly minerally, as expected of Ramonet, with more flavours of limestone, coal and smouldering ember amidst some mild earthy pungency that is entirely characteristic of this large premier cru plot that lies upslope to the west of Chevalier Montrachet. Good delicacy, concentration and acidity, but done quite subtly, perhaps just missing in potential complexity that one senses from the classic plots of Meursault or Chassagne.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dent de Chien 1er. Adjacent to En Remilly to the north. Shut on the nose. Lovely characters of creme and chalky minerals, displaying good presence with a forward balance of white fruits matched by crisp acidity, somewhat straightforward and a tad short at this stage. More generous than the same wine of Louis Jadot.

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2014 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er. Good depth on the nose with a lovely glow of peppermint and tangerines. Creamy, rounded and full with subtle acidity, just a bit short.

2014 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er. More earthy than Les Combettes and more advanced with excellent body, forward in floral notes, crème and subtle chalky minerals, just a  bit short.

2014 Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet. Gentle aromas of white flowers with forward balance of tropical fruits, again very gently focused and very well integrated with subtle minerals, displaying understated intensity. Just a village, but absolutely lovely.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret monopole 1er. This is the inaugural vintage of this new wine from this venerated estate, coming from a special enclosed plot within Les Caillerets. As expected of Ramonet, this wine displays some early complexity in its bouquet of dense citrus and delicate minerals, medium-full, absolutely gorgeous in its precision and focus of gentle tropical fruits and sublime minerality, finishing with plenty of verve, superb integration and length. Outstanding.

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2013 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er. Relatively darker than usual in color and tone for pinot, medium-full, featuring good concentration of red and dark fruits with overtones of earth and soil, well-integrated but lacking structure, decidedly more feminine in character.

2007 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal. Generous overtones of toast, rye, barley and yeasty characters, very lively and deft on the palate with good acidity and subtle minerals, still youthful.

2017-03-13 22.49.172013 Hirsch Vineyards Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (courtesy of Te Shan). Raspberries, red fruits and tangerines dominate on the nose and palate with light airy textures, medium-bodied, displaying good presence but too shy and gentle, lacking distinction.

2011 Domaine Hudelot-Noellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru (courtesy of Dr Ngoi). Lifted aromas of delicate red fruits, raspberries and bright cherries, racy with fine concentration, depth and mouth-tingling acidity on the palate supported by highly subtle minerality. Still has some way to go but will be wonderful.

2011 Kracher No. 9 Muscat Ottonel Trockenbeeren Auslese. Glorious tropical fruit with a forward balance, absolutely homogenous, fairly viscous with further notes of passion fruit, caressing the palate with lovely intensity and depth. Excellent.

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