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Joseph Drouhin: 2010 Corton-Charlemagne, 2008 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche…

June 27, 2017

Some notes from a private dinner on 05 April 2017 at Nicolas, organised by FICOFI with M. Jean-Paul Dumond, Sales Director of Maison Joseph Drouhin, on one of his regular visits to Singapore. Whilst the reds of Drouhin are excellent in their own right, just missing the last degree of individuality and utter complexity that confers absolute greatness, its whites have consistently outshone the reds, truly outstanding examples of white burgundy at its supreme best.

2007 Delamotte Blanc de blancs. Broad and expansive with excellent concentration of pomelo, citrus and lime, fleshing out with good intensity and some lovely yeasty pungency, not too dry, finishing with traces of ferrous minerals amidst gravelly textures. Drinking well.

2010 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. The bouquet here is strikingly dense and aromatic, recalling petroleum fumes, coconut and nectarine that matched very well with the wonderful complex of crème, white flowers and gentle minerals from the lush fruit, quite full with lovely acidity, building up in intensity and structure over time with extended depth and  linearity, finishing well. Quite complete. One of the finest Corton-Charlemagne I’ve ever tasted. Outstanding.

2008 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru. Highly anticipated but still a bit reticent, taking its time on the nose as white flowers, incense and white pepper dominate with excellent presence and subtle acidity, beautifully proportioned with an emerging depth of tropical fruits amidst some early complexity that teased the palate with fleeting streaks of gorgeous delicate citrus, gelling very well over time with further richness, finishing with great persistence. An elegant and demure beauty. Needs time.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er. This wine is really all about its bouquet, bright with a lifted fragrance of smoke and incense along with a lovely depth of dark cherries and dark roses. Unfortunately, the palate isn’t quite able to keep up, medium-full, open with crisp acidity but lacking in richness and layering, tapering towards a minty finish.

2012 Maison Joseph Drouhin Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Dark fruits and delicate tangerines dominate with ample presence, freshness, vigour and fine acidity but this wine lacks structure, as is usual from this plot of grand cru. Nevertheless, showing well with a feminine predisposition.

2012 Maison Jospeh Drouhin Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru. This wine opens with a great lovely earthy pungency with a stirring depth of concealed dark fruits, amply proportioned, lush and delicious with good layering and sublime acidity, growing in sophistication and structure over time but missing in development towards the finish where it is still primal. Should be quite glorious when it reaches maturity.

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