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Ric visits Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

October 23, 2018

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg was established in the 1930s, managed initially by Georges Mugneret who was an ophthalmologist with an equal passion in wine-making. He was succeeded by his daughters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andree, and it was the latter who greeted us warmly as we knocked on the doors of this estate in Vosne-Romanee on the morning of 22 October 2018. Marie-Andree still remembered my first meeting with her last December at the Palais des Grands Cru in Paris where I’d sat on her table. The wines of Mugneret-Gibourg hail from various holdings in Vosne-Romanee and Nuits-Saints-Georges totalling some 8 hectares, mostly de-stemmed during vinification. Made by an all-female team all from within the family from her generation onwards, one cannot help but notice that the wines tend to share common traits of feminine expression: wines of great purity, charm, grace and elegance, well-proportioned with understated power and intensity. From reasons unclear, the wines of Mugneret-Gibourg still tend to remain under the radar. But from the quality that I’d come across in the past, and now further affirmed by the 2017 horizontal tasting in its cellars today, I’d say its time has come and this is where the smart money should be. My sincere thanks to Marie-Andree for her generosity and lovely hospitality.

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2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne. Beautiful dark color. Delicious aromas dark currants and dark cherries, well replicated on the medium-bodied palate with an earthy floor. Good acidity with darkish tones. Very well integrated, just a tad straightforward.

2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanee. Aged in 50% new oak, this wine shows a lovely dark ruby that promised dark fruits, dark cherries and currants, delivering with excellent presence and definition with excellent acidity, carrying good weight. Quite seamless, finishing with good mouthfeel, just a little short.

2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges Au Bas de Combe. This village is also displays a lovely ruby with a keen bouquet of ripe raspberries, revealing soft dark plums on the seamless palate that imparted gentle elegance and fine acidity. Beautiful. Only 3-4 barrels.

2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saints-Georges Aux Chaignots 1er. More earthy with a distinct oaky note. Good presence of dark fruits with recessed earthy minerals. Medium-bodied. Elegant but a little reserved. Compared with the Au Bas de Combe, this appears to struggle little to express the fruit.

20181022_100837-1.jpg2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny Les Fusselottes 1er. A bit shy on the nose though the abundance of ripe dark currants beneath is unmistakable, imparting lovely concentration, acidity and freshness with understated intensity, finishing well.

2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux Grand Cru. Deep color. Shy but promises plenty of ripe dark fruits and currants, displaying excellent purity and ease.  Well layered with great suppleness, utterly seamless with plenty of lovely acidity, finishing with good linearity. A classic expression of Vosne-Romanee though distinctly feminine. Very charming. Vinified with 15% whole bunches. I really love this.

2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Beautiful purple. Beguiling bouquet of dark roses and ripe raspberries. Highly supple. Very fine presence with a dash of earthy underscored by subtle acidity and intensity though I thought there was just a trace of green elements.

2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. Good color, imbued with ripe raspberries, dark currants and earthy tones on a minerally bed, displaying supple acidity and fine presence. Rounded, soft and fleshy.

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