2015 Meursault: Coche-Dury & Roulot

Over lunch at Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau at Levenois, outside Beaune, on 22 October 2018, we spotted this pair of village wines from the same vintage, allowing us to compare the efforts of the top two of the very best producers in Meursault, reasonably priced at EUR370 in total from the restaurant. Both were popped and poured and tasted simultaneously.

Coche-Dury (left) and Roulot

The 2015 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault displayed a glorious luminous gold, stamping its class with a dense effusive bouquet of intense oily citrus laced with traces of gun smoke while the palate is textured with chiselled chalky minerals amidst a tight immense concentration of white fruits and yellow citrus that eventually loosened up with expansive breadth, depth and layering, yet maintaining a superb sense of refinement and sophistication in spite of so much verve and vigour. Truly outstanding.

In contrast, the 2015 Domaine Roulot Meursault Luchets was equally luminous though more open right from the start, exuding a deep intense bouquet of delicate citrus that shone through a palate of dense minerals, excellent in concentration of white fruits and yellow citrus that teased the palate with fleeting deftness at the beginning, singing with refined intensity and controlled power as it developed further weight and richness, yet never heavy as it finished with lingering persistence. A supreme example of delicate elegance at its most sublime. Outstanding.