1961 Montrose, 1997 Mouton Rothschild, 1995 Latour, 1997 Drouhin Montrachet MdL, 1990 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut, 1995 Haut-Brion, 1994 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

This dinner at Jade Palace, Singapore, on 25 June 2020 marks the end of more than two months of state-imposed dine-in restriction in the wake of Covid-19. Such a memorable occasion mandated no less than a First Growth line-up, plus the rarity of a 1961 claret. It was very good to see, once again, the familiar faces of the restaurant staff and to know that everyone has remained safe and healthy.

1990 Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut, courtesy of LF. Deeply coloured, proffering oxidative notes with a prominent minerally tone. A similar whiff of pungent earthiness is also evident of the palate, still imbued with excellent fullness of clear citrus underscored by a controlled dry intensity and steely depth amid overtones of gun smoke cordite. Excellent.

1994 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Still relatively pale with a bright minerally shine on the nose. Rather restrained and tight initially, gradually loosening up to reveal fresh clean lines that enhanced its purity of fruit, displaying excellent depth and agility with a light minty glow that kept up its apparent youthfulness whilst maintaining a subdued intensity throughout. Fairly consistent with a previous tasting at a FICOFI event in October 2019. Quite excellent.

1997 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Decanted for three hours prior. Deep golden lustre, exuding a deep bouquet of mature tangerines and white floral overtones that extended well onto the palate with excellent density of citrus fruits, glowing with mature crème de la crème on a backdrop of subdued chalkiness. Interestingly, it became more delicate and agile over time whilst gaining further exciting intensity, developing towards a more ethereal presence. Still has the legs for the long haul, despite the vintage. Excellent.

1961 Château Montrose, courtesy of Sir Robert. Displaying a deep brownish red with some bricking, this wine still seems incredibly youthful in appearance and on the palate, proffering a remarkably fresh glow of red fruits and tangerines that grew in intensity over time with overtones of ground pepper. Medium-bodied, still imbued with fine presence of mature wild dark berries, absolutely harmonious with a lovely suppleness as it finished with a terrific glow amid traces of soy and dusty tannins. Held up very well throughout the whole evening. What a privilege!

1995 Château Haut-Brion. Decanted on-site. Deep garnet core with a highly attractive bouquet of deep currants, ripe berries and incense. Medium-full. Fleshy with excellent concentration and fullness, quite richly layered with fruit that is approaching maturity amid traces of capsicum and tangerines within a very well-defined structure, displaying lovely length and intensity. Excellent.

1997 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Sir Robert. Still darkly coloured, this wine exudes a captivating glow of wild berries, raspberries and mulberries amid traces of capsicum and ground pepper, rounded with supple freshness and succulence of delicious red fruits tinged with dried mushrooms though without the outright opulence of the best years, developing lovely intensity as it finished with good length. Quite superb. Seems all the 1997 clarets are having the last laugh.

1995 Château Latour, courtesy of Kieron. Still darkly coloured, exuding a deep mesmerising bouquet of ripe dark berries and currants along with a savoury note, displaying very fine presence and acidity as it caressed the palate with a luxurious velvety smoothness before settling down with great transparency and linearity. Characteristically aristocratic. Excellent.