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1982 Vieux Château Certan, 1988 Le Pin, Château Margaux 2002 & 1983

September 25, 2020

Dr and Mrs Wang Kuo-Weng kindly hosted dinner for their usual group at Shang Palace, Shangri-la Singapore, on 11 September 2020 under properly-distanced conditions. Mature claret seemed to be the main theme and all the wines were showing beautifully. Many thanks, Dr Wang and Meng, for the wines and to Chuan Ann as well for the impeccable wine service.

1996 Champagne Bollinger R.D., courtesy of WKW. Lovely luminosity, proffering a lovely yeasty pungency with overtones of toast and roasted walnuts. Open with a certain minerally presence within a sheen of fresh bubbles, displaying crystalline clarity and wonderful depth with fine understated intensity as it developed a distilled dry essence over time. Beautifully balanced. Excellent.

2014 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Les Cras. Chalky minerals dominate with some earthiness on the nose, displaying sublime acidity and superb clarity of white tones with utmost precision. Superbly integrated and layered with understated depth, teasing the palate with delicate fleeting intensity. Good finish. Pouilly-Fuissé is severely under-appreciated.

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1988 Le Pin, courtesy of Meng. Evolved vermilion, exuding delicious red fruits on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is highly supple and succulent, boasting fine concentration of raspberries and dark cherries that exert understated intensity. Developed a faint trace of iron ore amid a gentle complex of summer hay and heath as it sat in the glass, maintaining great balance and proportion. At its best.

1982 Vieux Château Certan, courtesy of WKW. Evolved red, showing good lift of dark cherries and raspberries with a smoky intensity while the palate is superbly layered with darker shades of fruit amid understated pebbly minerals, yielding great clarity and velvety detail over time along with a hint of cinder, eventually gaining striking intensity. Still amazingly fresh and vibrant with the legs to continue for another decade, at least. Outstanding.

2002 Château Margaux. Deep crimson. Slim, smooth rounded presence of dark fruits, blueberries and raspberries, displaying good concentration and fine acidity though somewhat narrow in spectrum on the palate. Drinking well but lacking complexity and depth. Short finish.

1983 Château Margaux, courtesy of Meng. Fully mature in every way, proffering an effusive bouquet of aged red fruits and sweet ripe berries that impart the classic perfumed complexity of this particular commune. A certain powdered medicinal trace is evident on the palate, still imbued with fleshy dark characters and cocoa amid supple tannins that are slightly dusty though the fruit has clearly lost some definition, threatening to develop a shade of burliness. Holding out well but will not improve further.

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