2007 Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane, 2006 A Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin; Croix Rameau: 2006 & 2017 F Lamarche; Petits Monts: 2014 Canneyt & 2017 G Noëllat

Our small group hit a new record for the number of bottles consumed per person on 11 November 2020 at Imperial Treasure Great World, where the primary aim was to welcome C J back from his onerous duties at a distant sultanate whilst exploring the relative merits of smaller plots of Vosne-Romanée. The focus was on La Croix Rameau 1er, a 0.60 ha plot at the north-eastern corner of Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru with three owners (Lamarche 0.21, Coudray Bizot 0.20, Cacheaux 0.16), and Les Petits Monts 1er. The latter, as the name implies, is an uphill promontory comprising rocky clay and limestone flanked by illustrious neighbours: Cros Parantoux 1er to the north, Aux Reignots 1er to the south, and Richebourg Grand Cru to the east. As expected, the Petits Monts 1er showed greater dimension in every aspect apart from the finish. Thank you, Dr Ngoi, for dinner and for the wines as well.

2008 Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, courtesy of Vic. Quite deep in colour, proffering a lifted deep yeasty bouquet followed by dense chalky minerals, yellow citrus and pomelo on the full-bodied palate that bore a distinct minerally shine mouthfeel, imparting a dry austere intensity. Not ready.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon P2, courtesy of C J. Light dull golden, exuding a delicate floral lightness and clarity from the excellent concentration of clear citrus, medium-bodied with an open dryness, developing a bit of layered depth over time. Still youthful.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of C J. Light golden hue, proffering a lifted lightness matched by a dry delicate concentration of clear citrus within a narrow spectrum of flavours, slightly bright. Still rather tightly coiled with tense acidity. Truly for the long haul.

2012 Château Pape Clement Blanc. Dull golden. Most unusual nose of paint, enamel and paraffin with a powerful suggestion of rich oily density. Forwardly balanced but still tight, layered with a soothing creaminess amid cool icing. Far from ready.

2017 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. Beautiful deep pinot tint. Restrained with some rosy hues. Medium-bodied. Fleshy and rounded, displaying fine balance and acidity though narrow in spectrum, mellowing after some time with greater detail and relaxed intensity though short. Still primal.

2006 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. More evolved in color. More effusive as well in rose petals and red fruits tinged with paraffin, structured with very good definition on the medium-bodied palate. Very well integrated and balanced with excellent purity of fruit but lacking layering and depth. Short finish.

2017 Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er. Deeply coloured, hinting at heated pebbles amidst delicious  red fruits and currants on the nose. Medium-full. Rather narrow in spectrum at first, eventually fleshing out with broader expanse, displaying very good presence with fine acidity and intensity though there is a persistent trace of minerally shine within its understated tannin structure. Not ready.

2014 Charles Van Canneyt Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts 1er. Beautiful clear ruby, exuding a very fine presence of ripe cherries and rose petals. Seamlessly integrated with superb acidity and verve, showing lovely balance though marred by a short finish.

2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Christiane. Evolved pinot tint, proffering an effusive rosy fragrance. Fleshy and rounded with lovely presence of fruit underscored by controlled acidity and intensity. Utterly seamless, finishing well with excellent linearity. Exudes a very correct feel in its refined feminine elegance, almost delicate although there is understated power, just missing that extra dimension of La Tâche even though it is nestled right next to that famous monopole.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS. Glorious pinot tint. Wonderful lift of cherries, red fruits and deep rosy hues. Medium-full. Rounded with smooth velvety textures and excellent ripeness of fruit, oozing feminine charm at just the right level of concentration, acidity and intensity. Most excellent.