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Ric’s 53: 2004 Château Lafite Rothschild, 1994 Château Lafleur, 1996 Château Palmer, 1989 Bouchard Beaune L’Enfant Jésus 1er, 2014 Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er…

December 14, 2020

Time to host my annual party, this year again at Jade Palace on 09 December 2020 without any specific theme. Would have involved more people and more wine were it not for Covid-19 restrictions. Many thanks for your contributions, guys!

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau Meursault-Perrieres 1er. Deep golden. Some initial cork taint was evident, though it cleared sufficiently to reveal mature white floral tones against laid-back chalk, citrus and tangerines. Possesses a cool placid quality with acidity that’s still fairly fresh, developing fine intensity with further traces of cinnamon though its finish was short. Certainly not the best example of this wine, as another bottle back in November 2019 had been outstanding.

2015 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Saint-Aubin Les Champlots 1er, courtesy of LF. Very pale and restrained, displaying just flashes of fleeting acidity before developing the classic laid-back Saint-Aubin character amid overtones of cool icing and vanillin, replete with a hint of tropical fruit. Fairly rounded but slightly recessed though there is no lack of depth, showing some early secondary development. Not the usual tight chiseled quality of PYCM.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er, courtesy of LF. Pale, proffering even minerally notes and gentle white tones, evoking a sense of floral fragrance with lovely cool clarity. Very well balanced and integrated, laced with superb acidity and exuberance that never went out of control. Excellent.

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1989 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus 1er, courtesy of MH. Evolved brownish red, evoking a hint of heated gravel amid swathes of mature plums and raspberries that still coat the palate with fine seamless intensity, distinctly feminine in demeanour as it tapered to a sweet gentle minty finish. Very fine.

2004 Château Lafite Rothschild. Superb lift of detailed red fruits framed within pliant structured tannins. Softly rounded and fleshy, revealing fine depth and layering, its refined acidity and fleeting intensity conferring a distinct feminine character, just ever so slightly pointed, finishing well with traces of capsicum. Quite the classic Lafite without the plushness of the best vintages.

1994 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Vic. Lovely fragrant lift of dark fruits and rose petals, well replicated on the palate with a rounded minerally sheen. Distinctly darkish in character with a vegetal tinge but superbly integrated, laced with fine subdued acidity. Drinking well. Lafleur in so-called “off” vintages scores well.

1996 Château Palmer, courtesy of Sanjay. Deep garnet red. Open with a subtle earthy glow amid dark berries, black fruits and currants, structured with plush tannins and superb acidity that imparted lovely presence. Great balance and integration. Caught at its peak and will hold for many more years. Excellent.

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