Montrachet: 2011 Drouhin, 1994 Marc Colin 2006 Armand Rousseau Clos Saint-Jacques, 1994 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cab Sauv, 2017 Montille Corton-Charlemagne…

The wines for this dinner at Iggy’s on 18 December 2020 were centered around one kilogram (yes, that’s correct!) of fresh white truffles that LF had specially flown in from Alba the night before. Even Iggy himself was astounded. With a customised menu to match the endless flakes of truffle that we shaved ourselves, it was truly another evening to remember. Thanks LF!!!

1994 Domaine Marc Colin Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely luminosity, exuding an equally lovely expanse of mature chalky white tones. Quite resplendent with a dense minerally presence, showing fine gritty detail with great purity and refinement, laced with a fairly dominant acidity that imparted regal intensity, elegant freshness and clarity. Finished with a cool minty persistence amid austere minerals. Excellent.

2011 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Vic. Lovely luminosity. Very gentle elegant nose of white floral tones and white fruits with other exotic notes. Layered with excellent richness and detail, imbued with a deep vein of fruit and acidity that conferred great purity and exuberance, culminating in some minty intensity at the finish. Very lovely and elegant.

2017 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Pale. Effusive glow of cool icing and vanillin with expansive white tones on the nose with an additional dash of raw nutmeg on the palate, displaying superb body and concentration, seamlessly layered with great clarity and subtle detail. Developed even greater tonal expanse and linearity after some time, yet remaining highly elegant. This is a wine that speaks to you. De Montille’s Corton-Charlemagne is always very special, on par with Bonneau du Martray. Already drinking very well, but it would be wise to cellar further. A magnum of the awesome 2005 (it’s inaugural vintage) tasted at the domaine is still etched in my mind.

1996 Maison Leroy Bourgogne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Quite deeply coloured with distinctive tones of mature apricot and plums, appropriately weighty with a bright chalky shine amid a dash of sweetness before opening up further with tremendous searing intensity. Excellent.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of CHS. Mesmerising deep ruby, matched by an equally deep concentration of bright red fruits and cherries with distinct ferrous undertones. Medium-full. Beautifully refined in its purity and intensity of fruit, laced with sublime acidity and intensity. Excellent.

1994 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Still very deeply coloured, delivering full concentration of dark plums and red currants with subtle minerals, layered with glorious fruit that conferred sweet undertones. Slightly forward with with a lovely rounded intensity. Still remarkably fresh. Superb.

1994 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Deep impenetrable red, displaying a lovely lift of dark fruits though the palate is discernibly brighter than expected, filled with rich plummy tones that exert full rounded intensity, structured with velvety tannins that lent some degree of austerity at the finish. Still imbued with superb youthful freshness. Still not ready!