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1990 D.R.C. Échezeaux, 1985 Haut-Brion, 1992 Comtes Lafon Meursault, 1995 Latour, 1990 Montrose…

March 20, 2021

I enjoyed the privilege of a great evening in the company of people who didn’t mind pushing the boat out for a regular meet-up at the Shangri-la Singapore on 17 March 2021. The wines speak for themselves. I only need to thank my host for having me in mind, and to everyone for their generous contributions.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of K. Reticent at first, yielding more of delicate yeast on the nose with gentle depth after some time. The palate is still remarkably tight with a dry minerally intensity imbued with distinct ferrous elements, opening up in the glass with more of white smoke and dense yellow citrus as it took on a gleaming chalkiness. Excellent.

2017 Hospices de Beaune Meursault-Charmes Cuvée de Bahezre de Lanlay 1er. Poured from magnum. Its relative pallor belies a superb lift of effusive floral aromas and tangy detail, stinging the palate with a lithe fleeting intensity of white citrus and complex tropical fruit that carried tremendous verve, generously layered with superb clarity, integration and supple acidity topped with cool icing as it finished in a blaze of peppery white glow. Bouchard has nailed it beautifully. Outstanding now, clearly destined for greatness.

1992 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault, courtesy of W. Rounded stately tones with mature crème de la crème emanate from golden hues. Medium-bodied. Rather reserved and polite at first, gradually warming up to reveal fine citrusy detail within a deeper vein of poised tropical fruits, more sprightly as it eventually fleshed out with unrestrained depth and agile intensity. Superb.

1985 Château Haut-Brion, courtesy of K. Poured from magnum. This wine exudes a most alluring soft earthy pungency amid further traces of oriental medicinal powder. Generously layered with moderate depth of fruit that exerts a fleshy suppleness and lithe acidity that teased the palate with great presence and agility, its melted tannins offering excellent transparency. Very naturally balanced and still remarkably fresh. Caught at its peak. Superb.

1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of T. Evolved ruby, proffering an effusive perfumed fragrance of red fruits and rose petals tinged with haw that is simply quite beguiling. The fully mature palate boasts refined acidity that is still remarkably fresh, infused with lithe supple tangerines – the unmistakable hallmark of D.R.C. – that finished with superb glowing persistence. Excellent.

1995 Château Latour, courtesy of KM. Deep ruby. Open with a classic glow of mature claret that exudes quiet charm. The palate is highly supple and agile, layered with a gentle velvety depth of succulent red fruits that exert understated power with a relaxed feel. Not showy at all in spite of its obvious joie de vivre, impeccably proportioned and balanced albeit within a slightly narrower frame than usual for Latour, proffering a more subdued masculinity. Drinking superbly now, and will hold for many more years.

1990 Château Montrose, courtesy of D. A superb complex of red plums, ripe cherries and red roses sprang from its glowing ruby depth with unbridled lift and intensity, laced with an irresistible pungent earthiness that yielded great detail within the abundant layers of glorious fruit supported by sublime acidity, still unbelievably youthful as it traversed the palate with tremendous verve, effortless grace and supreme elegance, superbly proportioned and balanced in spite of its obvious power. Seemingly immortal, for this is distinctly more youthful, agile and energetic than a previous bottle tasted ten years earlier. Still far from peak maturity. Amazing!


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