Coche-Dury Meursault 2008 2014 2016, Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 2004 2006, 2010 Comtes Lafon Meursault-Goutte d’Or, 2016 Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos Ambres, 1999 René Engel Vosne-Romanée Brulées, 1996 d’Auvenay Chevalier-Montrachet & 2004 J-F Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru

One of the most memorable evenings of wining and dining took place on 26 April 2023 at Ki-sho, very kindly hosted by Anthony Oei, on a theme of Domaines Coche-Dury and d’Auvenay offered by Alvin and Sir Bob (most probably) in a moment of madness. On the other hand, what is the point of hoarding such trophies when wine is meant to be shared, particularly when the company is excellent and so knowledgeable? And so everyone dug deep and generously. The wines were blinded; only the manager Gabriele Rizzardi knew, and he did a superb job organising the flights. It turned out we had a mini-vertical of Coche-Dury Meursault, all correctly identified, as was the trio of Chevalier-Montrachet. The non-Coche Meursaults easily held their ground in spite of the stiff challenge, each retaining its own identity. Even the American outliers were excellent. Amazingly, the d’Auvenay appears to be ageless, all part of the old lady’s magic, whereas Leflaive tends to lose its freshness after about fifteen years, a point to note for those with loads of them. After the long line-up of whites, just a simple trio of reds, each so representative of its own terroir, would suffice to round off a wonderful evening. Many thanks, everyone, for your immense generosity and to Anthony for hosting.

2007 Kistler Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep golden, slightly opaque. Most unusual on the nose at first, rather meaty with a distinct savouriness leading to a dense expanse of warm ripe fruit graced with a pronounced sweetness and sublime acidity, eventually morphing into a seamless entity with a certain elusive velvetiness amid effusive overtones of paraffin. Spicy finish. Excellent in its own right.

2006 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep golden hue. Clearly mature on the nose, and quite obviously Leflaive in its weighty tones of old chalk, malt and rye replete with caramelised characters, slipping onto the soft velvety palate with a distinct oiliness that fans out with superb mouthfeel, lingering with great persistence amid further notes of cinnamon. Shows tremendous class and sophistication. 

2004 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. More developed in colour and tone even though it’s only couple of years older than the 2006. Surprisingly restrained, perhaps even a little musky on the nose though the medium palate is fairly rounded and fleshy, revealing fine definition of layered fruit against a backdrop of distant chalk. Doesn’t quite measure up to the 2006 but its tonal balance is still unmistakably Leflaive, turning more introspective and minerally over time with emerging notes of orange peel.

1996 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep golden. Clean lean bouquet, showing some restraint that belies the piercing intensity of tropical citrus graced with tight acidity on the tensile medium-full palate, just a little distant at first before settling down with a gentle glow of nutmeg amid a distinct salinity, morphing into an utterly seamless entity with great agility and freshness, revealing white medicinal elements within. Highly persuasive, staying the course throughout the evening. One is never quite sure whether this is at its drinking peak or will it attain even greater heights. Ours was bottle 635 out of 725. Superb!

2008 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Kieron. Clear golden hue, opening with a lifted lightness of apples and pears on the nose. Equally deft and agile on the medium palate, couched in a velvety fullness that impart delicate intensity and refined acidity with a trace of floral sweetness at its gentle finish. Beautifully balanced with effortless elegance and clarity. A more traditional style of Coche-Dury by Jean-François before Raphaël took over. Very classy.

2014 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Alvin. Pale. Marked reductive tones dominate, greatly enhancing its delicate minerally detail and inner definition with tremendous precision. Settled down with a placid elegance of cool icing and very fine powdery textures tinged with capsicum and tangerines, beautifully balanced and refined to the point of ethereal gleam. Outstanding.

2016 Coche-Dury Meursault. Pale. Good lift of white fruits and clear citrus, slightly reductive though not quite chiseled as expected in spite of the fairly accentuated intensity exerted by its high-toned acidity, yielding tremendous detail. More introspective after some time with a laidback charm before re-emerging with sharp definition, exuding gentle complexity as well. Note the non-domaine labeling.

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er, courtesy of Vic. Light dull golden hue. Surprisingly restrained, proffering a distant nose of floral characters that belies the tight chiseled intensity of white fruit and frangipani that exert considerable power on the rounded palate, shot through with sublime acidity throughout its dense layers. Distinctly Old World.

2016 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres, courtesy of LF. Pale. This wine opens with a reductive pungency, contrasting beautifully against the attractive lift of delicate white fruits and clear citrus that cut across the medium palate with subtle intensity and tension, resembling very much a Coche-Dury in its clean structure, clarity and fine precision though a tad short.

2017 Sandhi Bentrock Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, courtesy of LF. There is a sense of pebbly warmth beneath its pallor, beautifully endowed with an elegant presence of white fruits and tangy citrus that teased with deft agility and great clarity on the medium-full palate, exuding subtle pungency amid overtones of nutmeg and spice with a trace of sweetness. Almost burgundian, holding its ground solidly in spite of coming at the end of a long illustrious list of whites.

2011 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Evolved crimson. This wine opens with a lovely rosy fragrance, leading to a medium palate of raspberries and darkish fruit shrouded within a thin veil of paraffin, subtly structured with supple intensity and clean definition. Great balance. 

1999 Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée Les Brulées 1er, courtesy of Anthony. Opaque pinot tint, proffering plummy tones of mature red fruits in sharp definition amidst a teasing pungency. Still superbly fresh and supple, boasting a fine expanse of fruit evoking mandarins with a deeper core of superb tangy intensity graced by crisp acidity. So highly integral to the point that it is almost reductive. Outstanding.

2004 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Opaque red, exuding a lovely glow of red fruits and rose petals. Medium-full. Clearly entering its mature phase, displaying cool calm precision with relaxed charm underpinned by sublime acidity, exerting a bit of tonal tension that teased with delicious intensity. Very naturally balanced and structured without calling attention to itself. A classical Musigny, made by a gentleman who understands his terroir.