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Sep 2021: 2004 Georges Jayer Nuits-St-G, 2016 Aubert Sugar Shack, 2000 La Gomerie, 2006 Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane, 1993 Jean Grivot Richebourg…

September 30, 2021

2017 Maison de Montille Saint-Romain. Popped and poured at Eastern House Of Seafood, 01 Sep 2021. Lifted nose of delicate citrus with a hint of cool morning dew and vanillin. Very good understated supple presence, fleshing out with tangy nutmeg amid some earthiness and subtle salinity, displaying excellent clarity and persistence.

2016 Domaine Lucien Muzard et Fils Santenay La Maladière 1er Rouge. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 02 Sep 2021. Good colour. Rose petals, cherries and red fruits dominate, growing more effusive and delicious with greater intensity, seamless acidity and subtle detail before settling into a gentle even medium-bodied proposition amid a distinct saline note. The perfect accompaniment for lunch.

Champagne Jacques Selosse Initial Brut, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Quite deeply colored, proffering a rich burnished tone of toasted oak infused with a chalky expanse. Medium-bodied. Fleshed out with lovely brilliance, displaying fine detail and length.

2009 Domaine Francois Mikulski Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Lovely luminosity, exuding cool icing with a controlled racy depth of complex white fruits and white floral tones with a hint of nutmeg, showing good verve and sophistication as it fleshed out with rounded intensity. Beautifully seamless.

2016 Aubert Sugar Shack Chardonnay, courtesy of Kieron at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Gentle wafts of paraffin and crème tinged with vanillin, leading quite seamlessly to a controlled sweetness of exotic tropical fruits laced with tangy white pepper on the medium-full palate. Developed a lovely chromatic tone that glowed with intense linearity. Wonderfully balanced. Outstanding.

2006 Mount Mary Quintet, aired for two hours in advance at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Translucent purple. This final effort of the late Dr John Middleton opens with a soft subtle fragrance of distant fruit, very finely balanced and rounded with a bright pebbly tone against the expanse of dark fruits and capsicum beneath. Utterly seamless. Has that same tonal balance as a claret. Highly successful.

2000 Château La Gomerie, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Deep garnet, proffering aromas of ash and burnt ends that contrasted beautifully against the dryish rounded medium-bodied palate, open with a supple depth of ripe fruit that exuded superb lift and balance. Truly the distilled essence of Bordeaux. Very lovely.

2012 Joseph Faiveley Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Lovely pinot tint, displaying fresh intensity of rose petals. and red fruits on a medium-full palate laced with fine acidity, taking on a more minerally tone with time. Very well balanced. Surprisingly feminine.

2003 Jos Joh Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Auslese, courtesy of Tim at San Shu Gong, 03 Sep 2021. Full bouquet of intoxicating diesel earthiness, exuding cool tones with lovely clarity and definition on the medium-bodied palate.

2015 Eileen Hardy Chardonnay. Popped and poured at Eastern House Of Seafood, 04 Sep 2021. Lifted floral bloom amid traces of sweet vanillin against a clean slate of chalk and white citrus, displaying good density and crisp acidity, seamlessly integrated with superb rounded intensity. Very correct.

2006 Château Malarctic-Lagravière. Decanted at home for ninety minutes prior on 06 Sep 2021. Deep garnet, proffering a delicious bouquet of deep dark currants and black berries that is slightly reserved. Medium-bodied, displaying soft fleshy contours with a gritty inner presence of earthy tannins and crushed fruit, maintaining its understated poise with fine linearity and balance throughout. Very correct for a Pessac-Léognan. This is what we ought to be drinking while the so-called “wines of the century” remain in deep slumber.

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2009 Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut, courtesy of CHS at Mei-i Sushi, 08 Sep 2021. Ripe peaches, pineapples, apricot and tropical fruits abound on the nose, matched by an open dry intensity that shone with excellent tone and clarity, imbued with understated toasty characters. Drinking very well.

2014 Lucien Le Moine Corton Blanc Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Mei-i Sushi, 08 Sep 2021. Light dull golden. Slightly bright tonal balance of white fruits against a recessed chalkiness, rather placid with a prominent salinity. A tad rustic, not showing much inner detail nor complexity.

2011 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet 1er, courtesy of Vic at Mei-i Sushi, 08 Sep 2021. Dull golden. Grassy elements, white tones and floral scents dominate while the lithe medium-bodied palate is open with early secondary characters of tangy nutmeg that grew in quiet intensity and power with a glowing chalkiness, underscored by crisp acidity and understated saline minerals. Good length. Very lovely.

2017 Meerlust Rubicon, aired in bottle for two hours prior to dinner at Rubicon Steak House, 09 Sep 2021. Deep purple. Delicious bouquet of dark cherries and blackberries tinged with brilliant graphite. Medium-full with a dark rounded velvety presence, showing good layering and sophistication. Those who still give South African wines a wide berth don’t know what they’re missing.

2018 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay, popped and poured on 11 Sep 2021 to go with satay at home. High-toned density of clear citrus, pears and chalky minerals that cut through the palate with lively intensity. Goes well with the heavy spices.

2008 J L Chave Selection Hermitage Blanc, courtesy of Sir Bob at Jade Palace, 14 Sep 2021. Clear golden lustre. Dense white floral bloom dominate against a tense chalky expanse, turning a tad more austere over time as darker shades took hold with a more backward presence, retaining crisp definition. Entirely consistent with a Rhône white.

2005 Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Farendes 1er. Aired in bottle for two hours prior at Jade Palace, 14 Sep 2021. Deep golden hues. Restrained at first, gradually evolving with a mature chromatic chalkiness, appreciably deeper on the nose with further notes of frangipani, displaying good weight and clarity. Fleshed out with an even tone, seemingly more reductive over time. I wouldn’t cellar any further.

2008 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic at .Jade Palace, 14 Sep 2021. Pale. Very delicate tones of lime and citrus with a lifted acidity, showing great agility and definition. Firmed up with great subtlety and understated length, finishing with a dash of bitter lemon. Very lovely, though yet to really develop tertiary complexity. 

20210914_195607.jpg2004 Domaine Georges Jayer Nuits-Saint-Georges, courtesy of Sir Bob at Jade Palace, 14 Sep 2021. Vinified by Emmanuel Rouget. Displaying a well-evolved pinot tint, this wine opens with a gentle restrained fragrance of tangerines and mandarins, medium weight with good tension and acidity. Fully mature. Seamlessly integrated with lovely elegance and agility. Perfectly balanced. Good finish. It may just be village, but this is a wonderful example of how good any burgundy can be in the hands of a good producer.

2006 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Christiane 1er, courtesy of Alvin at Jade Palace, 14 Sep 2021. Classic pinot tint. Assertive bouquet of paraffin, red fruits and cherries. Weighty, bright and rounded. Very well-layered with abundant dark fruits that seemed to recede into a shell of high-toned acidity after some time, finishing a tad short.

1993 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony Oei at Jade Palace, 14 Sep 2021. Still displaying a very impressive deep crimson, this wine opens with a deep captivating bouquet of complex red fruits with a distinct plummy tone. Medium weight. Still very lively, layered with a rich vein of dark fruit that traversed the palate with great length and linearity. Very lovely.

2008 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 15 Sep 2021. Pale. Superb density of clear citrus and lime with a lifted smoky presence, displaying a crystalline quality that glowed with excellent clarity and dry intensity, subtly structured with an understated sweet intensity throughout its length.

2004 Château Le Gay, courtesy of Dolly at San Shu Gong, 15 Sep 2021. Early evolution. Detailed bouquet of dark plums and rose petals amid an attractive funky earthiness that is quite lovely, matched by fine concentration of dark fruits on the soft rounded palate though somewhat lean, laced with lithe acidity. Drinking well. 

2018 Château de Rontets Pouilly-Fuissé Les Birbettes, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 15 Sep 2021. Pale. Highly restrained, evoking distant characters of preserved plums. Rounded with very good presence and subtle acidity, fleshing out eventually with sleek youthful intensity though it still came across as somewhat eccentric, more withdrawn with poised restraint towards the end of dinner.

2011 Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher No.8 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese “Zwischen den Seen” at San Shu Gong, 15 Sep 2021. Deep orangey hues. Sublime bouquet of ripe apricot, mandarins and nectarine that display soft density with a controlled sweet intensity, rounded with a smoky savoury afternote. Very naturally balanced without ever threatening to overpower the palate. Excellent.

2017 Maison Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes prior on 19 Sep 2021. Lively notes of pears and other white fruits though considerably less exuberant than before. Slightly darker and a tad more minerally. Drinking well with good balance and presence.

2015 Jordan Cobblers Hill. Aired in bottle for two hours prior to dinner at Asia Grand, 20 Sep 2021. Deep purple. This Bordeaux blend from Stellenbosch opens with an enticing nose of spice box and tobacco that led to great swathes of warm ripe fruit, coating the medium-full palate with a glossy luxurious sheen. Subtly structured with smooth sophisticated tannins that oozed with a trace of sweetness, evolving further with emerging notes of tea leaves and sandalwood as it gelled together with seamless juicy succulence. Distinctly New World but excellent.

2005 Château Barde-Haut. Aired in bottle for an hour prior to dinner, 21 Sep 2021. This wine has turned the corner, considerably softer and a little more velvety, imbued with a fairly deep plummy tone of ripe red fruits and cool dark berries that reveal subtle inner detail on the medium-bodied palate. Well-balanced and delicious.  

Champagne Henri Giraud Ay Grand Cru MV15, courtesy of Russ at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. A 70:30 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, respectively, with two-thirds coming from the 2015 harvest and the remaining third from perpetual harvest. Opens initially with a chalky reticence before fleshing out with an impressive depth of brilliant white fruits and citrus, boasting characters of toast, honeyed glaze, brioche and honeysuckle that blazed at just the right degree of dry intensity. Highly inviting, even as it took on a more minerally depth after some time, exuding an attractive austerity. Finished well on a note of bitter pomelo. Excellent.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Loche En Chantone. Aired in bottle for two hours prior at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. Pale, opening with cool white tones. Rather minerally at first, imparting a fairly austere density before blossoming with a lovely rounded intensity of pineapples and tropical fruits. Good length.

2017 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. Pale. Somewhat reticent on the nose at this stage though the classic Ramonet signature of Chassagne white tones and minerals is evident throughout. Well-balanced but still coiled with lithe intensity, teasing the palate with deft agility. Far from ready.

2008 Lucien Le Moine Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles 1er, courtesy of Melvin at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. Medium-bodied. Good density of ripe dark fruits on a cedary floor amid characters of sweet incense. Slightly dryish, open with some early maturity. Turned slightly brighter after some time, exerting greater fullness and attack with good definition.

2013 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. Classic pinot tint. Wonderful lift of delicate rose petals with a hint of paraffin. Medium-bodied. Slightly crisp and dryish. Very refined in acidity, showing good attack with a controlled intensity. Settled down eventually with cool balance that is almost aloof whilst its bouquet continued to evolve with superb complexity. Excellent.

2011 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Mont 1er, courtesy of Russ at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. Good colour. Full bouquet of dark roses and sweet incense. Medium-bodied. Distinctly leaner in profile with good clarity and definition.

2013 Clos Dubreuil, grown dynamically on a seven-hectare site in Saint-Émilion. Decanted on-site at Yoshi, 23 Sep 2021. Deep garnet. Full bouquet of dark currants and ripe black berries amid characters of warm gravel and licorice. Rounded with well-structured subtle tannins, exerting sharp intensity on the mid-palate though it dropped off quite abruptly towards the finish.

2005 Winemakers’ Collection No.1 (Michel Rolland). Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 25 Sep 2021, where the cork again was fragmented. Good lift of dark plums, leading to a palate of moderate weight and supple intensity imbued with wild dark berries that carry good level of ripeness, developing fine attack with rustic intensity. Another bottle (where the cork also broke) properly decanted for ninety minutes on 27-28 Sep 2021 was appreciably fresher, rounded and fleshy with better depth of dark currants and black fruits that shone with a graphite sparkle, finishing very well with gritty chewy detail amid earthy elements.

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