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April 2022: 2005 Louis Remy Latricières, 2019 Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 2010 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot, 2001 Gazin, 2000 Sociando-Mallet, 2005 Calon Segur, 1990 Gruaud Larose…

April 30, 2022

2019 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 02 Apr 2022. Deep inky purple. Forward in raspberries, black currants and dark cherries with a tinge of mocha. Wonderfully ripe. Impeccably balanced and proportioned, developing more of cranberries and tangerine extract as it fanned out with gentle biting intensity, displaying fine sophistication. Kept evolving throughout the evening, finally revealing tonal characters of heated wet stones, rye and spice box with a dash of savouriness. A real steal.

2005 Domaine Louis Remy Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Vic at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 02 Apr 2022. Evolved light pinot tint. Delicate lift of haw and cherries with a mesmerizing perfumed fragrance, seducing the senses with sensual complexity. Imbued with mature tones on the medium-bodied palate, evoking mostly tangerines, plums and peaches set slightly backward, its relative reticence made up for by highly-refined acidity and beautifully rounded tannins. Demure finish. Distinctly feminine. At its best.

2019 Maison Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Popped and poured at home, 06 Apr 2022. Greenish hue. Effusive nose of fig, green fruits and clear citrus. Shows a certain controlled liveliness that renders the palate highly elegant, enhanced by its restrained acidity and smooth gentle creaminess. A real steal, as always.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Pommard Les Rugiens 1er. Popped and poured at Graft8, 08 Apr 2022. Darker shade of pinot. Lovely nose of dark roses, cherries and raspberries. Well extracted with ample presence, showing good refinement with some dryish youthful intensity. More rounded and fleshy over time, almost velvety, exuding a deep rosy fragrance amidst ferrous shades with understated tannins. Very fine.

2014 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches. Popped and poured over dimsum lunch at Wah Lok, 09 Apr 2022. Pale. Hint of durians and custard amid the cool glow of clear citrus. Creamy smooth, teasing the palate with a delicate fleeting presence enhanced by unobtrusive acidity that proffered superb clarity, eventually settling with a subtle depth of earthy elements. Quite excellent.

2012 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir West Ridge Sonoma Coast, courtesy of Russ at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Good colour. Resolutely shut on the nose, though the palate is imbued with a quiet intensity of ripe raspberries and cherries that exude lovely glow. Very cleanly structured.

2005 Château Calon Segur. Popped and poured at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Deep purple. Open classic glow of dark currants and raspberries. Medium-bodied. Very smoothly integrated with early secondary characters of soy, herbal elements and dried mushrooms. Fleshy, vibrant and unpretentious. Superbly balanced and proportioned.

2015 Peter Michael Les Pavots, courtesy of Kieron at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. This wine is impressively dark in colour and tone with a restrained warmth. The palate is surprisingly rounded and fleshy in spite of its youth, loaded with delicious dark cherries and ripe wild berries that leave a faint trail of rosy fragrance (likely from the 18% cabernet franc within the Bordeaux blend), tinged with a dash of capsicum and enamel that fail to detract from its deep lush velvety intensity.

2006 Ramey Wine Cellars Larkmead Vineyard, courtesy of Melvin at the Tanglin Club, 11 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Displaying an evolved red, this wine is well-extracted with a fine presence of ripe wild berries and dark currants that impart a tingling spicy intensity on the fullish palate.

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2017 Laurent Ponsot Meursault-Blagny Cuvée de Myosotis 1er, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022. Greenish golden. Effusive in citrus and wild white flowers on the nose (some would say reductive). Medium-bodied. Fans out with a silky smooth oily density, yielding fine delicate detail with understated depth and acidity tinged with a distant chalky presence, eventually fleshing out with cool clean tones. Laurent Ponsot’s new line (since 2015) appears to draw polarising opinions but I do like the style.

2010 Domaine Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022. Darkish pinot tint. Excellent ripe tones of dark plums and red currants amid an early hint of secondary  tangerines. The palate is imbued with a wonderful purity of fruit, displaying lovely fullness with dark rosy hues marked by sleek acidity that teased with a fleeting intensity, eventually settling with lifted open supple textures. Louis Jadot is always very correct with their reds. Far better than the usual Clos Vougeot. Superb.

2001 Château Gazin. From the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Dark plummy red with a crimson rim, displaying evolved tertiary characters with a lovely complex of pungent earthiness, plums and tangerines. Medium-full. Beautifully nuanced with soft fleshy contours amid a distinct note of soy, structured with smooth silky tannins that yield fine detail with sweet subtle intensity. Excellent.

2019 Schloss Lieser-Thomas Haag Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2022 while having a conversation with Grant Ashton, founder and C.E.O, at our table. Luminous gold, exuding mild characters of petroleum vapor. Lovely warm presence on the cleanly detailed medium-bodied palate that hinted at durians and tropical fruits with a controlled intensity, laced with just the right level of sweetness.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet. Popped and poured at Jade Palace, 15 Apr 2022. Still deep garnet, proffering lifted notes of capsicum, wild mushrooms and dry herbaceous elements amid distant dark rosy hues that carried well onto the medium-full palate. Softly contoured with cultured tannins that yield lovely supple density with understated sweet dark currants. Excellent. This is the best example of Sociando-Mallet that I’ve had regardless of vintage and the reason why it clearly belongs within the league of classified growths.

2020 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz. Drunk over two days, 18-19 Apr 2022. Generous in ripe raspberries, blueberries and currants. Slightly forward but one doesn’t mind when the fruit is so wonderfully fresh and delicious and vibrant with cool rounded tannins, laced with just a dash of spice and licorice. A supermarket wine, but well made.

2018 Inglenook Blancaneaux, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Light greenish hue. Some reticence is evident, rather coiled with an understated oily core of restrained chalkiness and white fruits in spite of its outer gleaming tone. More relaxed and backward after some time, turning a little brightish before smoothening out with even tone. A blend of marsanne and roussanne varietals most unusually from Napa, made by Philippe Bascaules of Château Margaux.

20220423_140730.jpg2018 Nicolas Jay Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Apr 2022. Purplish. Somewhat muted on the nose though the palate is ample in dark fruits, open with supple intensity amid traces of vanillin and crème as it gained tighter intensity with a rich rounded rosy fragrance tinged with a bit of briar.

1990 Château Gruaud Larose, courtesy of Mr S Kannan at his residence on 25 Apr 2022. Decanted on-site. Deep crimson. Fairly effusive in mature ripe plummy tones with a strong note of capsicum, leading to a wonderful lift of complex dark tones on the fleshy palate, framed by supple sexy tannins that eventually morphed into a lovely seamless entity with excellent depth of fruit. At its best and will hold for many more years.

1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, decanted on-site at Mr S Kannan’s residence, 25 Apr 2022. Deep purplish core. Delicious bouquet of blueberries, dark plums and currants. Medium-full. Still imbued with very fine acidity with a slick oily density, gently cushioned with warm ripe fruit at optimal maturity with soft cedary characters. Distinctly feminine. At its prime.

2001 Domaine J Coudray-Bizot Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Mr S Kannan at his residence on 25 Apr 2022. Mature. Generous bouquet of cherries and dark roses, though slightly reductive. Rounded with impressively silky smooth satiny textures on a ripe raspberry floor, stroking the palate with fine gentle intensity as it turned more structured and masculine over time without being overwhelming.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, poured ad lib courtesy of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 Apr 2022. Lovely golden hue. Eminently reductive with a profusion of pungent earthiness amid brilliant chalky golden tones. Refreshingly open with a dry citrusy intensity, painting the palate in bold strokes of pomelo and bitter lemon with lovely precision. Drinking beautifully.

2018 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Buisson Renard, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 Apr 2022. Subtle sweet tropical fruits of soursop, custard and pineapples on the nose and palate, tightly focused with a laidback lean clarity and cutting acidity, settling down with rounded recessed tones.

2013 Château Haut-Batailley, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 Apr 2022. Raspberries and mulberries dominate with dusty overtones. Medium-bodied. Fleshy but rather backwards with dryish rustic tones. A little more earthy after some coaxing, along with some mild cedary notes.

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