1997 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet, 1993 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, 1994 Armand Rousseau Charm-Chambertin, 1979 Domaine Louis Trapet Chambertin, 1994 Williams Selyem Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2008 Hudelot Nöellat Romanée-St-Vivant

When you’re joined by Grant Ashton, founder and C.E.O. of 67 Pall Mall (of which its Singapore branch is now the hottest dining establishment) for dinner, you’re more than happy to push the boat out. The theme at Imperial Treasure Great World on 20 April 2022 was burgundy Grand Cru. In spite of that, an imposter was cast in the line-up, but who would ever turn down a pre-1998 Williams Selyem? The food was excellent and the wines were singing. Many thanks, gentlemen.

2008 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sir K. Delicate tones of fig and clear citrus with a floral lift. Still rather tightly coiled at first with a dry intensity beneath a sheen very finely graded bubbles, gradually opening up with a bit of yeasty pungency as it fleshed out with cool fragrance and lovely length, evoking a sense of white smoke in its wake. Not quite as exuberant as it was when this vintage was first released a few years ago, but still highly pleasurable.

2013 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Vic. Pale. There is a hint of durian in its cool minty lift as it teased the senses, underscored by fine precision and understated tension on the clear palate. Burst into life with exciting intensity and lively acidity after forty minutes, developing more body and oily presence amid overtones of jackfruit and other exotic fruit. Drinking well.

1997 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Light luminosity. There is a predominance of pomelo and bitter lemon on the nose that contrasted beautifully against the chamfered layers of restrained chalky white tones on the palate that offered lovely clarity and transparency. Still remarkably fresh, laced with sophisticated acidity throughout its superb length. Wonderfully poised with regal confidence.

1979 Domaine Louis Trapet Pére et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Pale brownish red. Utterly pungent (really!) though the open palate is remarkably clean and fleshy with plummy tones, still imbued with fine acidity and surprising detail in spite of its distinct maturity. Evolved quite rapidly in the glass as it smoothened out with excellent refinement before its imminent retirement.

2002 Vincent Girardin Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Grant. Deeper note of crimson. Open with a fleshy presence of red plums and currants. Highly supple but understated, morphing into a superb seamless entity with engaging charm as it snapped into sharper focus with a trace of salinity. The vines of this vintage really speaks to you.

2010 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Deep ruby. Quiet nose. Open and fleshy with a placid suppleness, very evenly proportioned with a lovely expanse of cool red fruits that yield fine definition, just a little titillating but it really doesn’t call attention to itself. Surprisingly feminine, given Pierre Damoy’s tendency for higher extraction.

2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint, proffering a classic bouquet of plummy tones and tangerines that led to a juicy succulence of cool red fruits, wonderfully balanced with real depth and sophistication. Very correct in every way. Very classy.

1994 Williams Selyem Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Evolved crimson. Restrained presence of mature red fruits and haw that impart quite a gentle velvety depth with a characteristic dash of menthol and eucalyptus that betrayed its origin. Slightly bold in layering, still fresh and lively.

1994 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Classic pinot tint. Quiet on the nose though there is a fine intense rasping presence of darker shades of red fruits and currants on the supple medium-full palate. Fresh and slightly minty, beautifully balanced with a faint understated minerally mid-body. Caught at its best.

1993 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep crimson. Unusually earthy and pungent with a hint of tangerines. Generously layered with fruit that is still remarkably fresh and youthful. Cleanly structured with superb precision, evolving with supple velvety intensity and delicious succulence.

2008 Domaine Hudelot Nöellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Very fine pinot tint. Ample in haw and red fruits on the nose and palate. Openly supple, subtly layered with lovely detail amid early secondary characteristics. Very beautifully nuanced and integral. A complete wine.