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May 2022: 1990 Château Léoville Las-Cases, 2017 Sandhi Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, 2000 Pol Roger cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, 2015 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin, 1997 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin, 2009 Baron Thenard Montrachet

May 31, 2022

2017 Sandhi Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 01 May 2022. Deep golden greenish. Fairly effusive, displaying good detail of delicate chalk and citrus that carried well onto the medium-bodied palate, impeccably proportioned with excellent precision and definition, evolving more minerally characters even as it finished with superb floral length. Would have been difficult to tell apart from a burgundy if blinded.

1990 Château Léoville Las-Cases, at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 01 May 2022. Deep crimson, exuding a pronounced earthy pungency on the nose that I found to be highly attractive. Wonderfully mellow, beautifully structured with soft rounded contours with melted tannins that have given way to lush layered textures, allowing its deep core of delicious red fruits and currants to shine with superb length and purity. Still remarkably fresh, vibrant and succulent. Outstanding.

2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 02 May 2022. Dull opaque tint, exuding sweet dark rosy tones and raspberries with a bit of bramble and earth. Medium-full. Has mellowed considerably on the palate compared with a previous encounter two years ago, well proportioned with warm ripe fruit laced with refined acidity. More recessed over time though more seamless as well without any hint of gruffness. Entering its drinking window but best to wait another year or two.

2018 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Jardin du Calvaire. Drunk 4-5 May 2022. Delicate floral essence on the nose. Well balanced with a lovely sleek intensity of fruit and refined acidity on the medium-full palate, giving way to a crystalline clarity tinged with a dash of salinity and cool icing. Developed some early complexity with further details of nutmeg, lemongrass and chamfered white tones that persisted with lovely mouthfeel. Showing better than a bottle tasted in 2020. Excellent.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 07 May 2022. This wine just gets better and better with each encounter, refreshingly vibrant with racy notes of nutmeg, pomelo and green fruits topped with lively acidity that gave way within an hour to rich textures of crème de la crème, yet still retaining its detail and precision. I’m now convinced that it’s better than the 2019.

2014 Château Batailley. Poured from magnum at Barrie’s clinic party, 07 May 2022. Bramble, briar and sandalwood on the nose. Full-bodied. Well-integrated with silky smooth tannins but lean, lacking true depth and layering.

2006 Château Puy-Razac. Poured from magnum at Barrie’s clinic party, 07 May 2022. Too soft and backward, shrouded with dusty overtones. Could do with more fruit.

2019 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 09 May 2022. Gleaming white chalky tones on the nose with floral overtones. The medium-full palate is layered with nutmeg and complex citrus, underpinned by sleek acidity that impart a focused intensity of fruit and vanillin whilst maintaining fine clarity, finishing well. Plenty of potential here.

2018 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Chambolle-Musigny, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 09 May 2022. Deeper shade of pinot, quietly confident on the nose with notes of dark berries, dark roses and a sprinkling of red fruits. Very well layered and structured with abundant ripe fruit that is beautifully integrated with sophisticated tannins and faultless acidity, displaying excellent typicité. Already drinking well but best to refrain from doing so for another 3-4 years.

1994 Château Léoville Las-Cases. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 11 May 2022. Still deeply coloured, glowing with mature hues of dark plums, cherries and rose petals. Medium-full, its ample fruit still in prime condition, structured with subdued sweet tannins that yielded supple detail with a hint of tobacco dust, iron filings and mocha, imbued with fresh exciting acidity. More aromatic as it fleshed out with greater succulence amid smooth creamy textures before mellowing considerably towards the end of dinner, developing a further subtle dash of menthol. Still possesses sufficient charm in spite of the vintage.

2016 DeMorgenzon Maestro Red. Popped and poured at Hillman 99 (Pasir Panjang), 14 May 2022. Dark. Capsicum, black fruits and ripe wild berries dominate with traces of licorice on the full palate, bordering on the exotic amidst its youthful intensity without being distinctive. Needs extended cellaring.

2014 Champagne Bollinger Grande Année at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Pale golden. Attractive nose of yeasty overtones and varnish. Excellent presence of green fruits, citrus and white tones, brightly lit with dry intensity on a base of understated flinty minerals, displaying superb ripeness and length with a hint of gunmetal at the finish. Drinking very well, on the brink of further complexity.

2018 Domaine Rapet Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Frétille 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Light golden. Good lift of distilled cool white tones laced with vanillin. Rounded with a dash of oily density, displaying excellent layering and integration, finishing with superb linearity, just a little short. Shows real sophistication. Sited just north of Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Sous Frétille 1er is truly an under-appreciated gem.

2019 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Light golden. Effusive bouquet of brioche, honeysuckle and baked apples. Well-layered with fine clarity, exuding a lovely gentle intensity with traces of nutmeg and wild fruit that conferred a hint of rusticity, finishing in a glorious blaze of white tones.

2018 Domaine Michel Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Darker shade of pinot. Sharply accentuated nose of preserved fruit and dried plums. Medium-full. Very good integration of warm ripe fruit and rounded acidity, almost velvety in texture with some sweetness in its refined tannins. Expertly crafted.

2019 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin La Perrière 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Purplish pinot tint. Perfumed bouquet of dark roses and cherries. Medium-full. Good extraction of fruit at optimal ripeness, covered in overtones of haw and varnish that yielded some glimpses of inner detail through its delicious tannins.

2017 Domaine Delagrange Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Slightly darker shade of pinot. Medium-bodied. Fairly open with fine intensity and acidity, structured with sweet tannins. Distinctly feminine.

1997 Château Tirecul-la-Gravière Cuvée Madame at a SMA Wine Chapter event at Jade Palace, 17 May 2022. Tea-colored. Mature tones of honey and menthol. Medium-full. Concentrated and luscious, almost liquered in its smooth textured mouthfeel, still imbued with fine acidity as it finished with a medicinal dash.

Champagne Ruinart NV Brut, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Luminous. Alluring perfumed floral fragrance with a lovely lift, a stark contrast against the dry brazen intensity of yellow citrus on the palate, tinged with bitter lemon. Fleshed out with a rounded minerally glare. Drinking well.

2000 Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Dull golden. Lovely complexity of peaches amid yeasty overtones, displaying a wonderfully sumptuous palate of complex green fruits and sophisticated minerals that exert superb dry intensity and freshness within a sheen of very fine delicate bubbles. Absolutely delicious.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Pale golden. Distant tones of white incense and yeast. Structured crystalline quality with a certain lean dryness, offering good clarity though somewhat nondescript initially. Took its time to slowly flesh out with further notes of pomelo and bitter lemon, taking on a sterner demeanour. Dwarfed on this occasion by the Pol Roger.

2012 Domaine Pierre Damoy Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Classic pinot tint. This village monopole opens with extracted tones of dark cherries and rosy hues, still rather tight and tense on the abundant palate, softening after some time with darkish tones within a narrow spectrum. Slightly austere.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Volnay Santenots 1er at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Don’t let its duskiness and high-toned acidity put you off when freshly popped. After four hours of aeration, this wine becomes wonderfully open and effusive in delicious red fruits, still imbued with fabulous freshness and juicy succulence while its acidity is considerably more refined and better integrated though the finish is undeniably short. At full maturity but still has the legs to last.

2012 Domaine Forey Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots 1er, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Classic pinot tint. Restrained with rosy hues and raspberry tones. Medium-bodied. Structured with smooth tannins with a lovely glow of red fruits at just the right degree of presence, displaying refined acidity with fine balance and definition. Highly elegant.

20220530_210715.jpg2015 Domaine Arlaud Morey-Saint-Denis Les Millandes 1er, courtesy of Alvin at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Darkish. Well extracted and weighty with predominant red fruits and cherries. Still tight with refined intensity, yielding lovely inner detail. Very fine.

2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of Raymond at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Lovely pinot tint. Exudes an attractive rosy fragrance with an open gentle biting intensity within a frame of smooth tannins, showing excellent presence with superb balance and layering.

1997 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir K at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Pale pinot tint. Fully mature, still imbued with very good presence of satiny red fruits tinged with tangerines and minerally elements that confer dryish intensity with a bit of austerity. Impeccably proportioned and elegant.

2015 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Raymond at Imperial Treasure Great World, 19 May 2022. Superb bouquet of glorious red fruits, cherries and raspberries. Wonderfully ripe and intense, richly layered with some early complexity, displaying lovely finesse and definition. Irresistible.

2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Bourgogne Blanc. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 21 May 2022. Pale. Subdued on the nose though the explosive palate boasts intense lime and yellow citrus imbued with a high-toned sublime acidity, revealing gravelly and ferrous detail with structured precision and delicate lift that lingered with lasting persistence. Far from maturity, yet irresistible.

2017 Domaine Francois Carillon Saint-Aubin Les Murgers Des Dents De Chien 1er, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 22 May 2022. Greenish hue. Effusive in green fruits, fig and fresh floral fragrance. Medium-full. Very good concentration of fruit, stuffed with tight chalky intensity. Fleshed out after an hour with exquisite white tones laced with a minty lift, turning a little more minerally with a cool crystalline glow as it proffered glimpses of inner detail. Highly refined.

2001 Domaine Dominique Laurent Bourgogne Blanc, courtesy of Mr Co at Praelum, 25 May 2022. Pale. Brightly lit with high-toned acidity, offering good clarity and definition but short.

2013 Clos Dubrueil, courtesy of Melvin at Praelum, 25 May 2022. Deep purple. Medium-full. Brightly lit with warm pebbly tones and bramble. Rather terse and unsettled with some discernible alcoholic heat in its wake.

2007 Château Mangot, courtesy of Melvin at Praelum, 25 May 2022. Still deeply coloured. Medium-full, displaying a velvety warmth that helped to offset certain discernible vegetal tones that imparted a tinge of austerity.

2009 Domaine Baron Thenard Montrachet Grand Cru at Wah Lok, 30 May 2022. Deep golden hue. Rather backward at first though a certain mature chalkiness, rye and distilled white tones are discernible, gradually opening up with further notes of vanilla and aged crème de la crème as its initial intensity on the palate gave way to more graceful elegance, fanning out with gentle layering and superb subtle acidity to an eventual open intensity of cool glacial tones, preserved orange peel and grapefruit interpolated with magnolia and exotic spices at its lingering finish. A superb beauty at its best.

2019 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Blanc, a glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 31 May 2022. Pale. Citrus, peaches and tropical fruits dominate on the nose and palate with subtle intensity amidst restrained white fruit and a cool minerally presence. Slightly more austere than the usual Puligny or Chassagne white. Drinking well.

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