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1999 Domaine Louis Jadot Echézeaux GC, 2008 Domaine Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares, 2007 Markus Molitor Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir***

September 7, 2022

An impromptu gathering at Imperial Treasure Great World, 30 August 2022, where the wines were tasted blind. Whereas I’d previously liked to drink my whites properly matured well beyond ten years, I tend nowadays to agree with my buddies who prefer them younger whilst there is still that freshness and agility with less likelihood of premature oxidation. Another stunning revelation is how good German pinot noir can be these days, for the blinded spätburgunder thrown in the mix had the same stuffing, balance, proportion and finish of a burgundy grand cru (I actually thought it was a Clos Vougeot). One can only conclude that global warming has now resulted in perfect conditions for pinot noir in the traditionally cooler Mosel region. Many thanks, gentlemen.

Champagne Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve Brut Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of LF. Pale golden. Powerful nose of lime, clear citrus and pomelo, displaying very good presence with dry intensity within a highly refined sheen of smooth bubbles with further notes of green apples over time.

2017 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet, courtesy of LF. Pale. Refreshing lift of cool morning dew and distant clear fruits with a tangy velvety presence, teasing the palate with rounded fleeting rounded intensity. Fairly harmonious. Subtly layered with fine precision though it doesn’t quite possess that classic white Chassagne signature of Ramonet.

1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Dull golden hue with a distinct sur maturite on the nose. Rather reluctant and backward initially, just a seemingly empty chalky shell. Took two hours to shed its shy façade, emerging with subtle chalky hues amid a dash of paraffin as it gradually grew with gleaming intensity of glorious white fruit laced with undertones of varnish, eventually striking a classic Leflaive pose with a bright refined glow.

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Attractive nose of delicious red fruits marked by a deep rosy fragrance though the softly contoured medium-bodied palate is rather modest in presence and finish. Cleanly structured and well-integrated. Doesn’t call attention to itself but neither does it seem to display the depth nor layering one would expect from this grand cru.

2007 Weingut Markus Molitor Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir***, courtesy of Alvin. This spätburgunder displays a very correct aged pinot tint with a bouquet of glycerin and mature red fruits that is most beguiling, wonderfully textured with excellent refined presence on the medium-bodied palate. Seamlessly structured with subtle weight, finishing with superb length in an understated minty flourish. Foxed us all into thinking it was a Côte de Nuits grand cru. While climate change may have become too hot for French vineyards, conditions seem perfect now for pinot noir grown in the Mosel region.

1999 Domaine Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. There is a certain elusiveness in its slick earthy bouquet though it is absolutely beautiful on the palate, imbued with mature red fruits that still exert youthful intensity with superb freshness, layered with great acidity amid darkish undertones, tapering to a modest finish. At its prime. Louis Jadot reds are always so very correctly nuanced. Very lovely.

2008 Domaine Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Dense deep crimson, exuding rosy hues with delicate tones of haw and a distinct note of varnish. Medium-full. Superbly rounded, yielding fresh deep plummy tones with fine transparency. Cleanly structured and bright with a modest intensity and finish. Excellent.


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