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2019 Pierre Boisson Les Grands Charrons, 2019 de la Vougeraie Le Clos Blanc Vougeot, 2009 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet, 2008 Comte Liger-Belair V-R Aux Reignots, 2015 Faiveley Clos de Bèze Ouvrées Rodin, 2006 Georges Roumier Bonnes-Mares & 2003 Harlan Estate

December 27, 2022

Sir K closed the year with a bang on 12 December 2022 at his bespoke residence where Chef Joseph Yeo was called upon, once again, to display his culinary art on the all-V-ZUG equipment to match the superb line-up of wines served in Zalto stemware by sommelier Kok Hong. It is an entirely different take on c’est la vie. Thank you!!

20221212_203041.jpg2006 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Kieron. Poured from magnum. Somewhat muted on the nose but the medium-full palate shows a lively presence of fresh citrus and green fruits, brightly lit by refined ferrous minerals. Open with great balance and dry intensity, though there is a persistent understatement (probably because of its large format bottling), the wine coming into its own with greater layering and rounded warmth only much later in the glass. Still far from peak maturity.

2019 Domaine Pierre Boisson Meursault Les Grands Charrons, courtesy of Tim. Light luminosity. A little shy though icing, vanillin and raw nutmeg become more evident with further coaxing, eventually exuding sweetish overtones that matched the distilled mid-palate of apples and orchard fruit that linger with subtle precision, fleshing out with seamless white tones that took on further weight and purity. Superb.

2019 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot. An uncommon white from Vougeot, from a 2.29-hectare monopole. Clear golden. Quite amply proportioned, imbued with understated chalky tones and minerally elements that conferred a distinct subtlety that is certainly preferable than chunky stoniness that would, otherwise, have emerged from its structured expanse. Fairly slick with shiny hues, developing greater depth and layering over time. Good finish. Almost Puligny-like. Deserves further cellaring.

2009 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Clear luminosity. Very restrained at first, taking its time to reveal a light stony minerality within a refined medium-bodied palate that is showing early secondary characteristics. Still rather lithe and floral, exuding more of lychees within its depths, tinged with a mentholic dash. Very prim and proper. This will last the distance.

2008 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots 1er, courtesy of Russ. Raspberries and ripe plummy tones dominate with rasping intensity where the medium-full palate has evolved with clean precision and definition, structured with youthful supple tannins tinged with mocha that exude certain charm and swagger. Highly attractive.

2008 Domaine Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots 1er, courtesy of Russ. This wine opens with an arresting bouquet of predominant red fruits nuanced with a dash of laksa leaf, notably more evolved than Jean Grivot of the same vintage. Medium-full. Beautifully rounded with supple warmth, displaying a refined gentle intensity stamped with impeccable pedigree. Very seamlessly integrated with elegant charm. Very correct in every way. There’s a reason why Comte Liger-Belair commands such premium.

2009 Domaine Jean Grivot Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Superb lift of red fruits suffused with a warm ripe plumminess. Highly understated in spite of the abundance of fruit, seamlessly layered with velvety depth and soft-focus refined intensity. Almost aristocratic.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Les Ouvrées Rodin. Good colour. Clean lift of cherries, red fruits and luxurious currants that display lovely cool ripeness. Instead of the expected youthful heft, this wine is highly integral, structured with subtle supple tannins and beautifully nuanced with a dash of mocha and dark chocolate. Transcends the palate with effortless grace and sleek refinement without calling attention to itself. Made from a centrally-located 0.32 hectare plot (one of four discrete plots of Clos de Bèze owned by Faiveley) of 60-year-old vines towards the southern end of Clos de Bèze. Only 1300 bottles annually.

2006 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson core with a cool lift of darkish fruit that is wonderfully ripe. The medium-bodied palate is a little understated though the tannins are structured with great detail and masculine precision, proffering superb definition, softly imbued with a subtle earthy minerality. Outstanding.

2018 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Sous la Roche Plein Sud, courtesy of Tim. Made from trousseau, this wine displays a remarkable misleading pallor that makes one think that it’s old, especially when the nose features a certain distant sweetness with a hint of burnt cider. Medium-bodied, it is surprisingly tight and juicy on the mid-palate, displaying a refined freshness with keen precision.

2003 Harlan Estate, courtesy of Melvin. Deep lift of blueberries and sweet dark berries amid overtones of emulsion. Distinctly muscular, exuding a very deep dark intensity laced with an understated sweetness and, perhaps, a trace of burnt from its tightly structured tannins. Still highly youthful. This is controlled hedonism at its best.


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