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2012 Clos de Tart, 1988 Dom Pérignon Rosé, 2015 Louis Jadot Puligny-Mont Pucelles, 2011 Roger Belland Criots Bâtard-Montrach, 2012 Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet, 1989 & 2017 Lambrays Clos des Lambrays, 2009 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, 2013 Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

January 14, 2023

A big party thrown by the great Dr Ngoi ahead of his special day at Imperial Treasure Great World on 08 January 2023 attended by several luminaries including Mr Rudy Kurniawan, while a certain Monsieur Frèdéric Mugnier was only a few doors away. Dr Ngoi’s parties are always riotous, overflowing with great wine but it’s certainly a wonderful privilege, not least to be able to taste another 2011 Roger Belland Criots Bâtard in a space of ten days. Thank you very much and good health, Sir, so that we may drink more of your good stuff.

20230113_132327.jpg1988 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé, courtesy of SC. Poured from magnum. Deeply coloured, proffering a deep burnished tone of burnt toast, chestnuts and grapefruit. Still amazingly fresh with an even intensity though the bubbles have softened considerably with open refinement, the mature fruit still holding up well, developing mild undertones of pungent earthiness over time tinged with a juicy sweetness.

2015 Domaine Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Poured from magnum. Pale. Outstanding bouquet of fresh morning dew amid early notes of caramel and peaches with a floral intensity while cool icing, vanillin and distant chalk dominate the medium-full palate. Fleshed out quite rapidly with a sheen of white tones and paraffin, imbued with subtle minerality before settling down with superb clarity and refinement, exuding a quiet feminine glow. Almost on par with Grand Cru.

2011 Domaine Roger Belland Criots Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Dato’ CJ. Poured from magnum. Pale. Opens with a restrained elegance of subdued white tones laced with traces of salinity that lead to a lovely rounded fullness with structured precision, imbued with a distinct ferrous mid-palate. Settled down with a very slight velvetiness, displaying excellent clarity. My second bottle in as many weeks. Highly consistent and elegant.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of MH. Lovely luminosity. Refined lift of brioche, honeysuckle and distant floral tones. Impeccably proportioned with a restrained elegance, just a tad more minerally against a backdrop of white tones where there is a hint of medicinal powder, finishing well with fine linearity.

1998 Remoissenet Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of John. Rather deep in colour, exuding mature oxidative tones with a distinct macerated note almost like apricot. The fruit appears to be fading at first, though it fleshed out with rounded fullness after an hour to match the fine acidity, tinged somewhat with a slight Chinese medicinal tone as its autumnal character remains. Not advisable to cellar any further.

2011 Domaine Prieuré Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er PURE Cuvée Ngoi Sing-Shang, courtesy of the man himself. Poured from magnum. Highly evolved in colour, proffering a good lift of distilled red fruits and cherries though surprisingly thin on the palate in spite of the excellent purity of fruit. Definitely evolving much faster than expected compared with other bottlings I’ve had from Dr Ngoi. Probably just an isolated case of bottle variation.

2012 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Poured from magnum. Slightly darkish in colour with a generous bouquet of delicious dark cherries, raspberries and rose petals. Medium-bodied. Beautifully rounded and nuanced with moderate depth. Very lively and agile on a minerally base, its unobtrusive tannins ever so smooth and elegant, suffused with subtle character. Drinking better than a previous bottle tasted last year in the presence of Jacques Devauges. Superb.

1989 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely purity of mature red fruits on the nose, absolutely beguiling, though the fruit is much more distant on the palate where it is clearly fading, marked by orangey tones. Distinctly autumnal.

2016 Domaine Arlaud Chambolle-Musigny Les Noirots 1er. Good colour. Medium-full palate of raspberries and cherries, wonderfully ripe, structured with silky smooth tannins. Superbly balanced. Crafted with great sophistication. Rather understated but everything’s there. Very classy, just a tad short.

2009 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Surprisingly evolved in colour, proffering a fine lift of haw and mature red fruits. Open with superb refinement, amply layered with a dash of mocha. Entering its drinking window and will hold.

2013 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Some development is evident, displaying predominant red fruits on a deeper base of currants and shiny ferrous elements that impart a bit of glare, though it settled down with better balance and integration, showing intensity.

2017 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Rosy hues and ripe cherries dominate, beautifully ripe and delicious. Still a little tight, where the ample presence of red fruits, raspberries and a dash of wild berries promise plenty of potential though, presently, it is the deeper vein of earthy minerals that hold sway with moderate intensity. Great balance, finishing well.

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