La Conseillante: 2012, 2011, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2004, 2003, 1999, 1998 & 1996

The Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour met for an informal dinner on 10 January 2023 at Imperial Treasure Great World, featuring largely a vertical of Château La Conseillante, one of my favourite Bordeaux properties. Owned by the Nicolas family since 1871, its 12 hectares are split into 18 sub-plots planted with 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc on soil that is 60% grey clay and 40% sandy gravel. Planting density is cropped at 7000 vines per ha, where the average age of the vines is about 35-40 years. The juice from each sub-plot is individually fermented in concrete vats and subsequently aged in 70% new oak for up to 18 months. About 10% of pressed wine is added to the final blend for additional flavouring, colour and intensity. The 2007 was almost everyone’s favourite, proving that every vintage has its day, while the 1996 is superb in every way. Many thanks to all for your generosity.

Champagne Mousse Fils l’Extra Or d’Eugène Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut NV, courtesy of Russ. Poured from magnum. Clear golden. Predominance of dense pomelo and bitter lemon within a sheen of soft bubbles. Very cleanly structured with great crystalline clarity and refined depth, its pronounced acidity exerting some lovely intensity before ferrous elements emerge to impart austere overtones.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er, courtesy of Ewen. Poured from magnum. Dull golden. Cool glacial tones of icing laced with a trace of salinity, taking on a chalky shine that became more distant along with floral overtones, the fruit distinctly backward as well, glowing with refined intensity and simmering vibrancy as it sat in the glass. Clearly into its mature phase now. Ideal for those who like their chardonnay aged.

2012 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Dolly. Poured from magnum. Impenetrable deep garnet. Rather full and darkish, densely layered with pristine black fruits and dark currants, structured with pliant tannins and understated minerality. Fleshed out with a very fine even tone. Very fresh. Plenty of stuffing here but clearly still primal.

2011 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Lawrence. Purplish crimson. Some early evolution is evident, the wine showing a predominance of bright plummy red fruits imbued with excellent acidity though the medium-full palate is somewhat narrow, laid on an earthy floor of dusty tannins. Drinking well.

2009 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Russ. Deep purple with some bricking. Surprisingly restrained on the nose and palate, displaying a moderate depth of evenly toned dark plummy fruit still laced with varnish, well-integrated but somewhat withdrawn, not showing much. Unexpectedly short as well. Probably going through an awkward phase now. Best to lay down another five years.

2008 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Bowei. Opaque purple with some crimson. Restrained nose of darkish fruit. Gentle entry with a subtle saline lift. Soft, fleshy and supple, imbued with some ferrous elements. Opened up well with a balanced warmth, noticeably more nuanced, taking on a savoury tone.

2007 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Iqbal. Distinctly evolved into reddish-brown. Surprisingly attractive bouquet of warm red fruits with very good levels of ripeness. Medium-bodied. Soft, fleshy, beautifully nuanced with a bit of savoury character. Almost seamlessly integrated. Just a little short but this is really drinking superbly.

2006 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Sok Cheng. Reddish-brown. Somewhat reticent. There is a focused but restrained intensity of mature red fruits and haw on the medium-bodied palate with a slight velvetiness, structured with subtly sweet tannins. More seamless over time, showing excellent balance. Drinking well.

2004 Château La Conseillante. Poured from magnum. Deep garnet. Excellent presence and depth of dark plummy fruit that impart exciting verve. Quite boldly structured with subdued minerality but still somewhat unresolved, exerting some sharp attack and intensity, finishing with a distinct note of soy. Very different from a 750 mL bottle tasted just the night before which was highly supple and floral with a predominance of red fruits.

2003 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Daphne. Purplish brown. Opens with a restrained fragrance though the medium-full palate is plump with a velvety suppleness, fanning out with savoury warmth. Good transparency but a little subdued in acidity. Doesn’t betray the heat of the growing season. At its best.

1999 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Marc. Opaque evolved red. Secondary characters of plummy red fruits, raspberries, black truffles and cedar dominate on the medium-full palate with teasing intensity and very lovely integration, almost exuberant in its excellent freshness and lively acidity. A revelation.

1998 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Kieron. Translucent brownish. Cool complexity of capsicum, green chilli and bell hoppers amid evolved fruit. Medium-bodied. Softly delicious and plump, still imbued with quite a generous depth of dark fruit, displaying very fine integration and linearity, just a little short.

1996 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of Stephen. Evolved red, exuding an attractive earthy pungency amid that irresistible glow of mature dark fruits. Medium-bodied and fleshy. Beautifully open with refined acidity and understated tannins, imbued with very fine intensity and verve. Excellent.

2011 Château Hosanna, courtesy of KC. Crimson hues. Medium-bodied. Elegant presence of predominant red fruits and plums, rather relaxed in feel with a certain cool ripeness. Subtly layered. Drinking well.

2014 Château Hosanna, courtesy of Alvin. Deep crimson. Surprisingly soft. Concentrated presence of plummy red fruits and ripe raspberries with floral overtones, proffering fine detail of crushed dark cherries and stony minerals amidst the density of fruit and sophisticated tannins. For the long haul.

2000 Château Trotanoy, courtesy of Melvin. Deep crimson. Incredible bouquet of delicious berries and dark currants touched with splashes of salinity and savoury characters. Equally effusive on the palate where the wine is still tightly structured, its ample expanse spread onto a bed of ripe velvety warmth tinged with overtones of green capsicum and Chinese tea leaves, seamlessly layered with refined intensity. Still far from its peak, but thoroughly superb.