1960 “Y” d’Yquem, 1973 Mouton Rothschild, 1983 Lafite Rothschild, 1996 Cheval Blanc, 1968 Beaulieu Private Reserve, 2004 Latour

The usual suspects gathered at Summer Pavillon, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, on 11 April 2023 to mark LF’s twin-digit milestone with a stellar Bordeaux line-up where it turned out every decade between 1960-2010 was represented. Many happy returns, and many thanks too for dinner and for the generous contributions.

2006 Champagne Pierre Péters L’Esprit Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, courtesy of LF. Clear golden. Plenty of yeasty pungency amid characters of burnt toast and walnuts on the nose. Fairly plump and rounded with a full presence of bright clear citrus and pomelo from the blanc de blancs within a sheen of soft bubbles, yielding fine definition and intensity with a trace of sweetness.

1993 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc, courtesy of Sir Bob. Light golden, opening with a pronounced earthiness that quickly blew off to reveal notes of malt and rye with a characteristic powdery texture that I find to be consistent in these blends of sémillon/savignon blanc, replete with distinct tones of mature white fruit on the medium palate. Still fairly fresh with fine clarity, taking on a high-toned acidity over time but it lacks real complexity and layering.

1960 “Y” d’Yquem, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Dull opaque golden hue, proffering a refined nose of cashews and almond with a distinct note of preserved plums amid classic powdery textures that teased with a certain elusiveness. Still holding up with crisp acidity though the fruit has receded somewhat, glowing with mature white tones and distant chalky characters with a signature style and balance that is distinctly d’Yquem. Only its second vintage after the inaugural 1959. What a privilege!

1973 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Displaying a lovely deep ruby with substantial bricking, this seminal vintage of Mouton opens with a most alluring fragrance of rose petals within a glowing complex of mature dark fruits and currants, tinged with a dash of smoke. The medium palate is seamlessly structured and integral with a distinct autumnal character of tangerines and red plums, perfectly balanced with just enough fruit to match the acidity that is still fairly fresh, carrying itself with graceful elegance towards a quiet finish. Certainly worthy of its elevation to premier cru that year though Mouton, indeed, does not change. Thank you!

1968 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Reserve, courtesy of LF. Darkish core, proffering a weighty bouquet of herbal and medicinal characters with overtones of smoky diesel. Clearly mature but still fairly full in ripe red plums and mandarins underpinned by darker tones on a bed of sweet velvety tannins, displaying good verve.

1983 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Kieron. Deep garnet, basking in an effusive glow of mature dark berries, capsicum, mushrooms and cigar box with a teasing elusiveness. The medium palate is soft and fleshy, imbued with a supple intensity of plummy tones laced with sleek acidity, receding a little in fruit over time but still holding on with moderate presence before tapering to a quiet finish.

1996 Château Cheval Blanc, courtesy of Vic. Deep crimson, opening with a gentle fragrance of distant red fruits. The medium palate is rounded with soft tannins, rather relaxed and placid with understated detail and minerality. Moderate finish. Distinctly feminine.

2004 Château Latour. Deep garnet. Classic Pauillac nose of soy and tobacco amid a deep dark rosy fragrance. Medium-full, displaying some early complexity within its layers of ripe fruit and subdued minerality that lent a trace of austerity. Very well proportioned, exerting controlled power and sweet subtle intensity through its structured tannins and slick acidity that culminate in a long glowing finish.