Perrot-Minot: 2015 NSG La Richemone 1er, 2015 Chambolle La Combe d’Orveau 1er, 2011 Charmes- & Mazoyères-Chambertin

The great Jasper Morris, M.W., conducted a masterclass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 April 2023 featuring the wines of Domaine Perrot-Minot, comparing 2015 (by all accounts an extraordinary vintage for the Côte d’Or) with 2012 (a difficult one), plus a couple of grand crus from 2011 (tricky, where the reds are lighter). The domaine is run by Christophe who took over from his father Henri in 1993. Known for his severe selection and, hence, declassification of whole bunches of grapes, Christophe is not the type to actively promote his wines, which probably accounts for its relative obscurity although they certainly command quite a hefty premium. Using no more than 20% new oak, the differences between 2015 and 2012 are clearly discernible across different communes; I certainly prefer the latter at this stage, drinking better and costing less as well. Perrot-Minot is one of the very few owners of the small plot of La Combe d’Orveau 1er in Chambolle which directly abuts Musigny Grand Cru, always desirable at the correct price. The domaine also bottles its Mazoyères separately from Charmes-Chambertin (many others tend to lump it all under the latter) and this tasting proves the former to have its own distinct merits. At this price point, however, there are many options for the connoisseur to choose from…so choose wisely.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Aux Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes. Crimson hues. Highly alluring perfumed fragrance of red plums, mandarins, rose petals and haw. Medium-full. Rather delicate at first, displaying refined acidity and detail before developing a little more verve and body, weighty enough though its layers remain closed. Not the voluptuous sort.

2012 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Aux Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes. Classic pinot tint with some early evolution, exuding a clean rosy fragrance with a tinge of earth. There is a certain restraint on the palate, distinctly more minerally than the 2015, displaying an even presence and fullness with understated acidity. Good balance. Fleshed out beautifully with a lovely glowing finish.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Vieilles Vignes. Clear ruby, lifted in cherries and tangerines with effusive charm, bursting with excellent fullness and purity of fruit laced with sublime acidity. Settled down with understated supple intensity. Still rather tight, turning a little chunky in the glass after some time. Very fine.

2012 Domaine Perrot-Minot Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Vieilles Vignes. Classic pinot tint. Equal measure of mandarins and cherries doused with a distinct minerally presence, its relative austerity masking the fruit. The palate is consistently darkish and earthy, laid on a subtle but persistently ferric floor. Quite integral and stolid, structured with unobtrusive rounded tannins. Drinking well.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Nuits-Saint-Georges La Richemone 1er Vignes Centenaires. Classic pinot tint. Fairly effusive in red fruits and haw. Medium-full. Very cleanly delineated, displaying good precision and freshness though a little lean. Fleshed out well with rounded ripe fruit laid on a minerally floor. From vines planted in 1902.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er Vieilles Vignes. Lovely pinot tint though it is rather restrained on the nose in spite of the forward balance of fruit on the full palate, still quite tightly wound. Well-structured with vibrant acidity, displaying good power and succulence that taper to a moderate finish. Needs several more years in bottle. From vines planted in the 1930s.

2011 Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Evolved pinot tint, exuding a very gentle delicate perfumed fragrance. Medium-full. Distinctly more weighty and layered than any of the preceding wines, appreciably more integral and a notch higher in sophistication and refinement. Moderate finish.

2011 Domaine Perrot-Minot Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes. Opaque crimson. Excellent in density and detail of fruit, seamlessly structured with refined acidity underpinned by a distinct sweetness that imparted some velvety succulence before receding into its shell, turning more minerally with understated fruit.