1983 Margaux, 1986 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 2018 Roulot Meursault Clos des Bouchères, 2002 J-F Coche-Dury Meursault

A simple dinner amongst some of the usual suspects on a free theme at Imperial Treasure Great World, 11 September 2023. All wines were blinded but, through sheer coincidence, both whites were superstar Meursaults located along the same road while both reds were superbly aged clarets at their peak. Many thanks, Bros!!

2018 Domaine Roulot Meursault Clos des Bouchères 1er monopole. Pale luminosity. Clean lift of distant peach and clear citrus in a chiseled reductive style, the fruit set a little backward in favour of ferrous elements and minerals that lend a distinct austerity. Maintained its lean precise profile even with emergent notes of pineapples and tropical fruit over time, eventually a little more relaxed and introspective. Unquestionably sophisticated though it may not be everyone’s idea of Meursault.

2002 J-F Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Sir Bob. Clear luminosity. Highly enticing nose of ripe citrus with a detailed floral scent. The palate is still wonderfully fresh and plump, imbued with vivid acidity amid pomelo and traces of bitter lemon that teased with lithe intensity, boasting great precision and linearity throughout its fabulous length before developing a chalky white density over time. This is Coche-Dury in the old style that many still prefer. Outstanding.

1986 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, courtesy of Kieron. Decanted on-site. Deep purplish core with substantial bricking, exuding an effusive funk on the nose that gave way to a glorious glow of mature claret. Still beautifully full and fleshy in darkish fruit, subtly structured with very lithe tannins that ooze a bare trace of sweetness, laced with sleek acidity on a slightly dusty floor. One of the finest examples of Grand-Puy-Lacoste.

1983 Château Margaux, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep garnet with a brownish tint. Some age is evident from the effusive glow of raspberries and dark currants amid characters of bramble and dried leaves. Beautifully rounded and fleshy, its tannins having melted completely, leaving behind quite a glorious depth of fruit tinged with leafy capsicum, utterly seamless and still wonderfully vibrant, shot through with great pedigree. Still going strong at forty years without any hint of drying.